Jump to content

Home Built by Jeff

Home Built Z 'Full video build'

Recommended Posts

Shouldn't a fuseable link have killed the striped white that melted?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Couldn't tell if it was smoking because the key was on or because the battery was connected.

A better way to test the wiring before connecting the battery is to measure resistance between the positive cable terminal and the negative cable terminal.  A short circuit will show up as low resistance.  Then you can go wiggle and disconnect various circuits until the short circuit is found.  You can do the same when turning on the key.  All circuits should have some resistance.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Jeff, some people fill the diff by pulling a half shaft out the side. Top it up there and reinstall the half shaft.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You didn't show that you confirmed that you had power to the coil's + terminal.  With your previous smoke show maybe you damaged the coil's power circuit.

The ZX "match boxes" do go bad.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1:10 Rookie mistake #1

Never ever drain the oil before  removing the fill plug.

Edited by tzagi1
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The coil is new, so I didn't directly check it, but I did directly wire it to the battery. I will give it a better check tomorrow, but I am coming around to thinking the igniter is the issue.

20 minutes ago, tzagi1 said:

1:10 Rookie mistake #1

Never ever drain the oil before  removing the fill plug.

Absolutely. I have actually mentioned you should always do that in a previous video and totally forgot to do it this time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

The coil is new, so I didn't directly check it, but I did directly wire it to the battery. I will give it a better check tomorrow, but I am coming around to thinking the igniter is the issue.

The module needs a good ground also.  Power and ground.  Plus the ZX distributors are known for breaking the magnetic ring under the stator.  And they have bad bushings which let the sis pointed wheel contact the spikes on the outer ring.  Lots of small things to check with a ZX distributor.

image.png

image.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, tzagi1 said:

1:10 Rookie mistake #1

Never ever drain the oil before  removing the fill plug.

lol, I saw that too... and shuddered a little waiting for the "face of doom" look as the fill plug couldn't break free. Lucky for you Jeff! I had to take a torch to my tranny to get the fill plug out!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, wheee! said:

I had to take a torch to my tranny to get the fill plug out!

Torture is going a bit far... Did he/she get it out after that? 😂

Edited by Home Built by Jeff
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Dear Jeff, who is teaching you all these nonsense ignition theories?

Tell you what, Got whatsupp on your phone? +19402069747, afternoons, pacific time. I'll sort it for you. No need to thank me, its painful (to me) to see yah fighting with it, for god's sake, take something simple as pouring wizz out of a boot and over complicate it by a factor of 100.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jeff make sure you have the right length screws for mounting the locks. A screw too long can interfere with the operation. Try backing the top screw out some to see if that helps.


72 body and block, everything else 71, Tokico springs, Illumina, R180 CLSD, 83 close ratio, 3.90 gears, Ztherapy SUs, BRE 15X7 Libre wheels and BRE front spoiler.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, tzagi1 said:

Dear Jeff, who is teaching you all these nonsense ignition theories?

 its painful (to me) to see yah fighting with it, for god's sake, take something simple as pouring wizz out of a boot and over complicate it by a factor of 100.

It's Whatsapp.

Edited, never mind.  No need to be insulting.  Not a good look for you.

Edited by Zed Head
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only thing/s that don't look good on/for me....are snowflakes.

Edited by tzagi1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok. I have spent all afternoon chasing down some of my wiring gremlins. I have tracked back the lack of power to the + side of the coil to the tacho. I have continuity from the coil to the tacho, and I have power when the ignition is on to the tacho, but the output connection from the the tacho is not giving me any power? Does that mean that the tacho is fried? 

Another strange one that I traced, was there are 2 black white wires in the main harness coming through the fire wall. One of them being the wire from the coil to the tacho. I thought I had found my issue initially where I found one of them had been cut with 2 unplugged connectors on them which I assumed was from an old immobiliser. But after tracing it I found that it is the wire from the ignition to the voltage regulator? Would that work as an immobiliser? Or is it more likely that someone stuffed up and tried to immobilise the wrong Black/white wire?

I hope this makes sense. Any help is appreciated.

Edited by Home Built by Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for that, but it doesn’t really address my issue. I have already changed the wiring for the ZX dizzy. The issue is that the + signal is not getting from from the tach to the coil? Could my tacho be fried and that is why there is power in and no power out?

Edited by Home Built by Jeff

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The power goes through the tachometer on its way to the coil.  If you measure voltage at the coil then there is a clear path through the tachometer.  The ignition module provides a ground to let current flow, then a spark is created when that circuit is broken.  246's diagram shows the path (it is missing the ground from the IC ignition box though).

It's easy to confuse voltage with current.  You might describe what your meter reads at the + and - terminals of the coil with the key on.  There should be voltage on both terminals.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

Ok. I have spent all afternoon chasing down some of my wiring gremlins. I have tracked back the lack of power to the + side of the coil to the tacho. I have continuity from the coil to the tacho, and I have power when the ignition is on to the tacho, but the output connection from the the tacho is not giving me any power? Does that mean that the tacho is fried? 

Sorry, I missed this post.  My last post was redundant.

You might post up which wires you're measuring continuity and power to.  If you're seeing power to the tach and continuity from the tach, then measuring continuity through the tach would be the thing to do.  Actually, resistance measurements, ohms, are better than continuity.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.