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Home Built by Jeff

Home Built Z 'Full video build'

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6 hours ago, Zed Head said:

I still have memories of the US attempt to go metric.

I remember the metric alphabet. It would have made things so much easier. The decabet:
26ad2965ff7840e33e0fe1927e9fc911.jpg

53cb396e7c848f5c9eb565650f287bdc.jpg

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 A word regarding electric vs mechanical fuel pumps.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the mech pump, throw what you want at it, dcoe 45? no problemo

So why electric? there is one and only one reason,  in my particular case, I incorporated it into the security system, in other words unless you know the secret hand shake ......the perp will be stalled in 50 feet or so with no fuel.

Regadess, and as been my experience a few weeks ago I have been driving the 240 and it died about 1/4 mile from my house as if its out of gas, which it wasn't, reluctantly I have suspected the supply hose/s  at the fuel tank, both were 100% original and super brittle, both got replaced.....yet  the problem remained. finally, I replaced the hose from the fuel rail (100% original)(pass side fuel rail to the fuel pump) and that did the trick.

Moral of the story: Don't wait 45 year+ to replace  any flexible rubber fuel lines, the factory stuff may last that long (not) ..but aftermarket?

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@Home Built by Jeff

Jeff,

Did you see any of the threads on the forum about dash repair? A number of people have had good results with filling the dash and using SEM products to recolor and texture the repairs

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You should replace that small length of heater hose while it's out, accessible.  It's 45+ years old.

image.png

Edited by Zed Head
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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

@Home Built by Jeff

Jeff,

Did you see any of the threads on the forum about dash repair? A number of people have had good results with filling the dash and using SEM products to recolor and texture the repairs

I just went and had a look at that. They actually look very good. I will se how my end result is when it is done and make my final decision then.

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1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

You should replace that small length of heater hose while it's out, accessible.  It's 45+ years old.

image.png

That is a good idea, I will do that while I can still get to it.

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Actually, to go a little further, you might pressure test the system while it's out.  The control valves tend to go bad also, besides the common leaky heater core.

Some of the guys have developed alternative cores as replacements, and alternative control valves.  Worthy upgrades.  CO did both.  @Captain Obvious

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16 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Actually, to go a little further, you might pressure test the system while it's out.  The control valves tend to go bad also, besides the common leaky heater core.

Some of the guys have developed alternative cores as replacements, and alternative control valves.  Worthy upgrades.  CO did both.  @Captain Obvious

Good idea....the last thing Jeff wants to do is to pull it out one the dash is installed.

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@Home Built by Jeff

Much better!!!

The heater valves are hard to service and can be a little pricey. Some other guys have found newer parts that will work as a suitable replacement with some rework.

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Thanks for taking that "bad toupee " off the dash.  The repair is much, much better.

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45 minutes ago, Patcon said:

@Home Built by Jeff

Much better!!!

The heater valves are hard to service and can be a little pricey. Some other guys have found newer parts that will work as a suitable replacement with some rework.

I have got one coming from Japan for about AU$100. Nissan in Aus wanted around $350!

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19 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:

I have got one coming from Japan for about AU$100. Nissan in Aus wanted around $350!

Can you post the seller info, or is it a one time eBay thing?  Looks like about $72 US.  Even with shipping it's probably a good deal for a straight replacement part.  Is it NOS, or used?

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3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Can you post the seller info, or is it a one time eBay thing?  Looks like about $72 US.  Even with shipping it's probably a good deal for a straight replacement part.  Is it NOS, or used?

Mine was a new genuine Nissan one from a one off seller (it was US$69). I did a quick search and there is one in the US on ebay at the moment for not much more. Just do a search 😉

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9 hours ago, Home Built by Jeff said:
I have spent the last week sweating it out in the heat fitting seatbelts and reassembling the doors. 

Wrong crowd. 

image.png

 

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13 minutes ago, tzagi1 said:

Just swap the handles left to right!, you dont need to get a new one.

I did actually look at that, but it looks like I have one 240z door and on 260z door. The other handle will only work on the passenger side. Grrr!

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Well....look at the bright side, you now have a spare LH (not passenger)door handle now.

BTW, that break is classic, if anyone attempts to open the door while its locked it will break every time. Happened to me more then a few times..

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On 1/4/2019 at 6:04 PM, Zed Head said:

Actually, to go a little further, you might pressure test the system while it's out.  The control valves tend to go bad also, besides the common leaky heater core.

Some of the guys have developed alternative cores as replacements, and alternative control valves.  Worthy upgrades.  CO did both.  @Captain Obvious

I agree while I had mine out I replaced the core, the short hose and valve with aftermarket and fit was perfect.

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