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Jay.

Wanted: 240z (preferably modified) - Cash Waiting

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L O L at your picture of the floorboard being pretty much gone. Dude, that's what we call mild rust. It's pitted, and if you sandblast it, maybe you'll get some perforation. Consider those floors to be reasonably solid, and maybe in need of patching. They might need a total replacement after removing the factory sound deadening and blasting, but I doubt it.

What you're calling the rear valence is what we call the hatch sill. "Rear valence" is usually referring to the panel below the tail lights. Also, what you call "sills" I believe we call "rockers" aka, "rocker panels"

As for what else you should ask for? Battery tray for sure. Spare tire well, doglegs (the bit just in front of the rear wheels, the shape looks like a dog's leg), rear fender lips, underside of floors. There's more areas that typically rust out, but that car looks pretty solid, so I'm guessing the less commonly rusty areas are fine.

Edited by rturbo 930

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2 minutes ago, rturbo 930 said:

LOL at your picture of the floorboard being pretty much gone. Dude, that's what we call mild rust. It's pitted, and if you sandblast it, maybe you'll get some perforation. Consider those floors to be reasonably solid, and maybe in need of patching. They might need a total replacement after removing the factory sound deadening and blasting, but I doubt it.

What you're calling the rear valence is what we call the hatch sill. "Rear valence" is usually referring to the panel below the tail lights. Also, what you call "sills" I believe we call "rockers" aka, "rocker panels"

As for what else you should ask for? Battery tray for sure. Spare tire well, doglegs (the bit just in front of the rear wheels, the shape looks like a dog's leg), rear fender lips, underside of floors. There's more areas that typically rust out, but that car looks pretty solid, so I'm guessing the less commonly rusty areas are fine.

Okay you have me there! I meant with the two pictures I received, I didn't upload the worst one :-P I'm glad it doesn't look "completely gone" though. 

 

Okay, I'll try and get those terms in my head. We call them completely different things on this side of the pond, but I definitely appreciate the 'Datsun' name for them, as I'm sure it'll make searching forums and talking to members a lot clearer that way.

 

Thanks for those, I've jotted them down :)

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OP:  Are you familiar with the 260z?  They get a bad rap because the motor was choked down with emissions compliance and the bumpers were larger, but you wouldn't be dealing with those things on a modified car.  The way I see it a good 260 is a 240 with upgraded electrical and a stiffer chassis.  I'm getting close to putting mine on Bring A Trailer  

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 I Agree. The 260's were-are the red headed stepchild for various reasons but being single year model they will be a rare commodity in a few years. They really aren't much different than the late 73 240's. Most people wouldn't know the difference if a 260 had 240 emblems.

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It's the way the number 6 looks.  240Z and 280Z just look cooler than 260Z.  Imagine if GM had produced a Z26 Camaro.  Just not the same as Z28.

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2 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

They really aren't much different than the late 73 240's.

That's partly true. Early 260Zs are very similar to late 240Zs. However, late 260Zs are very similar to early 280Zs.

I understand why people prefer the 240Z, to an extent I do too. But depending on what you want to do with it, and what characteristics you value in a car, you might be better off with a 280Z. Having seen both a 240Z and 280Z as a stripped down chassis, I can tell you that the 280Z is the better built car. More obvious in some places than others, but it's clear that they had either improved their manufacturing process or their standards between 1970 and 1975. It is heavier, and uglier, but that can be remedied to some extent. It's not hard to swap the tail lights and bumpers. More difficult to remove the additional structure on the chassis for the 5MPH bumpers. Of course, some of that extra weight is in areas of the car where it is beneficial.

Edited by rturbo 930
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2 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 I Agree. The 260's were-are the red headed stepchild for various reasons but being single year model they will be a rare commodity in a few years. They really aren't much different than the late 73 240's. Most people wouldn't know the difference if a 260 had 240 emblems.

 

4 hours ago, Kurbycar32 said:

OP:  Are you familiar with the 260z?  They get a bad rap because the motor was choked down with emissions compliance and the bumpers were larger, but you wouldn't be dealing with those things on a modified car.  The way I see it a good 260 is a 240 with upgraded electrical and a stiffer chassis.  I'm getting close to putting mine on Bring A Trailer  

 

4 hours ago, Kurbycar32 said:

OP:  Are you familiar with the 260z?  They get a bad rap because the motor was choked down with emissions compliance and the bumpers were larger, but you wouldn't be dealing with those things on a modified car.  The way I see it a good 260 is a 240 with upgraded electrical and a stiffer chassis.  I'm getting close to putting mine on Bring A Trailer  

 

I'm not completely against the idea, but it'd have to be the "right one". I am hoping to own this car for a long time (forever, if I can) so it seems sensible to pay a little extra and start with the 240z. I don't know why it really matters if I do decide to modify it, but I guess it's having that option for it to be returned to a 240z at some point if needed!

 

I think if I was going for a non-240z, surely the 280z would be the better option as stated from @rturbo 930they seem to be the best built?

 

19 minutes ago, Reptoid Overlords said:

https://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/6181096570.html

Saw this one on Craigslist the other day. Not sure what's going on with that lower valence but might be worth checking out.

Many thanks! I don't know how I missed this one. I've sent him an email :)

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If you're willing to start with a 280Z, you could maybe find one more locally. I found a dude on YouTube  who bought a '77 in England. The guy had two for sale.

280Zs are unquestionably better built, but whether or not they are "better" depends on what you want from the car, and what you like about them. 240Zs are definitely more raw/vintage. Basically, from the factory, a 240Z is more sporty and nimble, a 280Z is more of a GT car. You can make a 280Z feel more raw/vintage, and you can make it look like a 240Z, but that will require effort and money. Some would consider that the fun part, some don't want to bother. Also somewhat depends on what mods you want to do. For me, 240Zs are at the point where I'm getting kind of uneasy seeing people drastically modify them (ie, engine swaps, cutting/welding the body), at least the nicer ones. I'm becoming a purist, lol.

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2 hours ago, rturbo 930 said:

If you're willing to start with a 280Z, you could maybe find one more locally. I found a dude on YouTube  who bought a '77 in England. The guy had two for sale.

280Zs are unquestionably better built, but whether or not they are "better" depends on what you want from the car, and what you like about them. 240Zs are definitely more raw/vintage. Basically, from the factory, a 240Z is more sporty and nimble, a 280Z is more of a GT car. You can make a 280Z feel more raw/vintage, and you can make it look like a 240Z, but that will require effort and money. Some would consider that the fun part, some don't want to bother. Also somewhat depends on what mods you want to do. For me, 240Zs are at the point where I'm getting kind of uneasy seeing people drastically modify them (ie, engine swaps, cutting/welding the body), at least the nicer ones. I'm becoming a purist, lol.

Thanks for the Series, I had a watch of them. The person he bought it off is 1 of 2 mass Datsun importers and are pretty notorious for bad customer service and inflated prices. I'd expect the guy in that video to have paid well in excess of $12-15k for that.

 

I know what you mean, but I imagine I'll probably change my build multiple times so I'd like to stick with the 240z as a base. I've had a Miata which I went through all the "stages" of ownership from full race car, to drift, to fast road, to completely OEM and back to a sort of hybrid

Edited by Jay.

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3 hours ago, Jay. said:

I think if I was going for a non-240z, surely the 280z would be the better option as stated from @rturbo 930they seem to be the best built?

Frankly the 260z is almost completely overlooked outside of the Z community.  Like @rturbo 930 said the 280 headed towards GT car style in that its longer and heavier.  To me 280's feel more 80's techno-fantastic vs the 240/260 vintage feel.  The 260 is an improved 240 instead of a whole new car like the 280.  

My 260 has 240 bumpers on it and even people with Z's assume its a 240 because they haven't seen a 260.  From the outside I think the only give away is a different set of tail lights.  

 

20161211_105355 - Copy.jpg

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28 minutes ago, Kurbycar32 said:

Frankly the 260z is almost completely overlooked outside of the Z community.  Like @rturbo 930 said the 280 headed towards GT car style in that its longer and heavier.  To me 280's feel more 80's techno-fantastic vs the 240/260 vintage feel.  The 260 is an improved 240 instead of a whole new car like the 280.  

My 260 has 240 bumpers on it and even people with Z's assume its a 240 because they haven't seen a 260.  From the outside I think the only give away is a different set of tail lights.  

 

20161211_105355 - Copy.jpg

That does look lovely, and you're right it's impossible to tell to the untrained eye!

If a 260z does come up, and it's the right price and condition, I'll definitely consider it. Same can be said for a 280z. I would just pay a premium for a 240z, for now.  

 

Edited by Jay.

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Was the 240z on hybrid that was on eBay and BAT to much?  I thought I saw you post over there. I think he is a dealer too and could likely arrange shipping. 

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27 minutes ago, JSM said:

Was the 240z on hybrid that was on eBay and BAT to much?  I thought I saw you post over there. I think he is a dealer too and could likely arrange shipping. 

The one texis30O is selling? I think he's looking for one that's not quite so nice. Honestly, I'd call that car a resto candidate.

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The White car with the Gold stripes is still on the table - I might be arranging to get it picked up next week. Even as a side project, it seems good value and a pretty solid base.

 

I've been in touch with a guy selling a nice blue 240z with an RB25DET swap for the last month or so. Pretty much 100% up my street. He's messed me around a lot which puts me off - we'd agreed a sale, and then he pulled out, and then he went silent, and it appears he tried to sell it to someone else who wasted his time - but it appears he's finally comfortable with selling it me so I'll be getting it looked at and maybe picked up next week too.

The car hasn't really been maintained particularly well in the last 4 years - he says he's just had it serviced and not replaced much in the way of anything, so that can be worrying. However, the price is pretty fair (in total will cost me around 15k) and it ticks all the boxes I'm after.

Some rust on the drivers dog leg, and a small spot on the door. Underneath appears clean, if not a bit of surface rust on the bottom of a door (i think)

Engine swap looks nice, all seems to be in good condition.

 

Fingers crossed he doesn't pull out.. again.

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The other buyer that wasted his time may have found something that wasn't disclosed?  I'm being critical with my comment but I feel like you should really go over the car, drive it long enough to see if it over heats or loses oil pressure. I don't know anything about those motors but the way he's messing with you I'd be extra careful. My .02$ worth.

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2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

The other buyer that wasted his time may have found something that wasn't disclosed?  I'm being critical with my comment but I feel like you should really go over the car, drive it long enough to see if it over heats or loses oil pressure. I don't know anything about those motors but the way he's messing with you I'd be extra careful. My .02$ worth.

How is he going to go drive it? He's in another country, lol.

I agree, something about the situation described there feels off. Seller strikes me as a bit sketchy. Also, it has had the floors done. You can see the seam. It could be a good car, but I would proceed with caution. Get someone on here who is local to go check it out, or find a shop to have a PPI done. Also, the rear flare is mounted wrong. Looks wonky.

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1 hour ago, rturbo 930 said:

How is he going to go drive it? He's in another country, lol.

I agree, something about the situation described there feels off. Seller strikes me as a bit sketchy. Also, it has had the floors done. You can see the seam. It could be a good car, but I would proceed with caution. Get someone on here who is local to go check it out, or find a shop to have a PPI done. Also, the rear flare is mounted wrong. Looks wonky.

You are right, I miss a lot of that kind of stuff.  Personally I would never buy a car "siteunseen". :D

Airplane ticket at least for a $15,000 purchase.

Edited by siteunseen

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There are people that will act as transaction agents for things like this, for a fee.  There are a few threads on this site from people who didn't get what they thought they were getting.  Even the shipping companies can make mistakes.

Edited by Zed Head

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Try using the forums " Member Map" up top below the address bar.  You could probably find someone close to a car you're wanting and like Zed Head says pay them some money and have them check it out.

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Thanks for the quick responses guys, you are all really helpful. This has honestly been one of the most welcoming forums I've been to. 

 

I spoke to the previous buyer, and he confirmed the sellers story - they couldn't agree on a price. He offered the same as I did and the seller rejected it as I'd said I'd pay that before. 

The seller said that the floors were replaced 4 years ago by the previous owner, along with the rear hatch bit. 

 

My brother and his friend (who owns a 240z) are both out in Detroit and are going to go buy it on my behalf. They're both car guys so I'm confident they'll check it over... But they're not z experts at all, so I'll need to brief them when I can. Assuming it starts from cold well, doesn't smoke or make any odd noise, keeps good pressure, drives nicely then I'm confident they'll be okay to check it. I'm more worried about the s30 specific things. Is the carpet easy  to lift to check the floors for rust? 

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

There are people that will act as transaction agents for things like this, for a fee.  There are a few threads on this site from people who didn't get what they thought they were getting.  Even the shipping companies can make mistakes.

I will likely use an agent to transport the car etc, and if my brother isn't confident in okaying the vehicle then I've found a classic expert who will inspect it for around $500.. Not cheap at all though! 

 

 

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None of the carpets in my '72 are held down by anything, easily removable.  Have them look under the seat mounts, that's where mine is the worse.  Also the sill where the hatch latch is, far left and far right. 

There is a vin number engraved on the firewall under the driver's side windshield above the brake booster.  It should be the same as the vin tag by the driver's defrost vent. 

Good luck, we all like a satisfied buyer even though it's an RB swapped motor. 8^(

Different strokes for different folks. LOL

Edited by siteunseen

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1 hour ago, Jay. said:

. But they're not z experts at all, so I'll need to brief them when I can. Assuming it starts from cold well, doesn't smoke or make any odd noise, keeps good pressure, drives nicely then I'm confident they'll be okay to check it. I'm more worried about the s30 specific things. Is the carpet easy  to lift to check the floors for rust? 

You can see the weld seams from the floor replacement in your pictures.

Actually, you should probably be more focused on "RB" stuff.  They have their own sets of problems, with coil and oil pump failures, for example.  The DET is a high performance engine so it gets beat on, of course.  And they're bought from overseas suppliers, pulled from used/wrecked cars, if I understand right.  Japanese Domestic Market, aka JDM.  It's not an old Datsun L6.   The Hubridz site has more RB folks.

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