Jump to content
zcardepot.com

280Z EFI Upgrade Kit Coming Soon !

    Recommended Posts

    FWIW, I installed this system in a friends 75 280z about a month ago.   Works very well, and I can assure you it is running on the stock Nissan injectors.

    Don't have the manual in front of me to look the specs up.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I plan on ordering a kit late this spring but it won’t be installed for a year or so... feedback would be nice.
     

    My how 2 years changes things... Haltech all the way!

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    FWIW, I installed this system in a friends 75 280z about a month ago.   Works very well, and I can assure you it is running on the stock Nissan injectors.
    Don't have the manual in front of me to look the specs up.

    Did you keep the stock dropping resistors in the car?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited)

    There's a forum.  Several posts mention having FAST change the "drivers" for low impedance injectors.  You'll be fine with dropping resistors though.  The ECU will drive a low impedance injector with a dropping resistor just like it would a high impedance injector.  For the most part.  

    http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/search/87444940/?q=impedance&o=date&c[node]=235

    But, you'll probably want to add some resistance, since the Nissan dropping resistors are only about 6 ohms, I believe.  So, about 8.5 ohms total resistance, instead of 14.

    Also, it looks like FAST can change the drivers to match the injectors.  That's probably what zcardepot asked them to do.  So if you buy his kit you're probably fine without the dropping resistors.  So if you're using the zcardepot kit you might already be fine.  Send him a message and ask.

    I know that I'm mixing impedance and resistance but for what the EFI system does it's close enough I think.  My electricity learning is weak.  Besides that, it seems that impedance is mostly used for AC circuitry.  It's probably used for injectors because of the time involved to energize the magnet,  which is a fine detail that probably doesn't; matter a lot for this low power application.

    https://www.physlink.com/education/askexperts/ae517.cfm

    Edited by Zed Head

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    58 minutes ago, AZDatsun said:


    Did you keep the stock dropping resistors in the car?

     

    No, the dropping resistors are removed and not present.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Ok I guess If this was customized by FAST then this makes sense sorry I am just trying to make sure there are no gotchas before I plunk down a load of cash and burn up the board or something because my injectors. once this comes back in stock I am going to be placing my order.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Ok I got the zcardepot ez efi system everything went in pretty straight forward for the most part. The only thing I am trying to understand is should the remote IAC valve make lots of air sucking noise when accelerating? I understand the valve opens to let additional air in during acceleration but it’s rather noisy. I seem to have most other items worked out and can accelerate and idle great and I am still in learning mode.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    Posted (edited)

    The IAC valve controls air flow during idle.  And the inlet should be plumbed in to the air filtration system, so you shouldn't hear it.  And, I don't know for sure, but it would make more sense that the IACV closed during WOT.  Edit - actually it should close as soon as the engine is off-idle.  For proper throttle control.  If the ECM is operating the IACV while your foot is controlling the throttle you'll have less air flow control.  Logic says it shuts as soon as the the throttle position sensor indicates off-idle. Edit 2 - actually it would shut because engine RPM rise above set-point.  That's how it works, it opens if idle speed is low and closes if idle speed is high.  Something to research...

    Since it's all under the hood, how do you know where the noise is coming from if you're driving the car?

    Edited by Zed Head

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Do you have pictures?  I wonder if you left your auxiliary air regulator (AAR) connected and that's where the noise is coming from.  AAR, not IACV.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Ok that makes sense. I was picturing what happens in the reverse from your description. I closes because it gets all the air from the intake during acceleration and opens during idle to allow more air in. I can hear the noise coming from the IAC when I am outside the car revving it with the throttle linkage not just cruising. So I am am guessing either the IAC plunger is not seating properly or there is a air leak in the threads allowing air to be pulled in. I am going to put some thread sealant on all the threads and check again tomorrow. I for sure pinpointed it directly to the IAC though.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    The IAC can make a lot of noise if it is having to stay open wider to maintain idle.  Meaning that the IAC is possibly the only air leak in the intake controlling idle.    You can open up the throttle blade slightly  so that the IAC does not have to pass so much air to maintain idle.  The TPS will need to be reset if the throttle blade is moved. 

     

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites
    13 minutes ago, AZDatsun said:

     I can hear the noise coming from the IAC when I am outside the car revving it with the throttle linkage not just cruising. So I am am guessing either the IAC plunger is not seating properly or there is a air leak in the threads allowing air to be pulled in.

    Is the idle steady?  Does it hold a certain RPM well?  Is there any way to see the duty cycle of the IACV on the FAST software?  That would tell you something.

    Note to ZCD - he said that he hears it when he revs the engine.  So its not an idle noise.  And the IACV is not an air leak, it's a throttle blade bypass.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Yes it idles steady I am going to check tomorrow after the sealant dries to see if I fixed it. Here is a picture of the setup the IAC is not connected right now in this picture because I just unplugged it for the threads sealant. The only thing I can see in the ez efi screen is the IAC value and I think that’s what step the plunger is on. In order to get the IAC in the green zone I had to close the idle adjust screw all the way down but that seems normal from videos I have seen. The values I have seen when I am driving is around 60 when I am cruising and 5-15 at idle but I will have to look closer at that also

    77838a5b4e615dbdc974230354022d35.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    That is a weird little IAC valve.  Most of them just plumb back in to the air inlet and use the filtered air that the rest of the intake uses.  That must be one designed for ITB's, probably, that don't have an air box.

    I don't think it should be opening more once you're off idle.  There's probably a setting to make it work right.  It might be some sort of power "trick" to allow more air in, like having a bigger TB.

    You could probably get a better IACV that plumbs back in to the air inlet.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I can think of one reason to have the IACV open at higher air flows - to get ready for deceleration.  Kind of like the BCDD.  If that's how it's programmed then your option might be to replumb the IACV so that it's not pulling through such small piping in to the intake.  Use a smoother straighter hose without the bends and constrictions.  Those brass fittings probably aren't helping, and the noise will project right out of that little gauze filter media.

    It's an interesting problem.

    image.png

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    They don't mention operation off-idle here...

     

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    These are all good suggestions I guess I got some more tinker time. Interesting video from FAST when they say open the throttle blades to let more air through if you have annoying hissing how do you open them on the 280z? I have the idle speed control screw but that’s about it. But I don’t get the hissing at idle so I dunno

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Interesting stuff.  I wonder how the OEM's control their IACV's.

    Here's something from a book.  Looks like BCDD action.  So, basically, you'll need to find a way to live with the IACV always open to some degree.   There are IACV's that just block a passage in a hose.  That would put all of the noise back in to the filter box.

    Looks like fun.  Good luck.

    https://books.google.com/books?id=pEmihb6gkT4C&pg=PA62&lpg=PA62&dq=throttle+follower&source=bl&ots=OixND3_406&sig=ACfU3U0ZaOUDpKZJjg-gNisMe70eQ36Sog&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjM-bqjmcTqAhV2HzQIHVMXDBM4ChDoATADegQIBxAB#v=onepage&q=throttle follower&f=false

     

    image.png

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Yeah went for a drive this morning, it isn’t an air leak it’s the IAC I guess after really concentrating I really only here it from off idle to about 15mph after that it’s pretty much covered up by engine noise.
    The system values range from 5-60 with 60 being fully closed. It seems it gets to 60 pretty quick after you start accelerating. I am just going to ignore it or maybe relocate the IAC into a better area.

    Thank you for all the help. The car is running great at idle cruise and hwy driving I am very satisfied with the kit


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    My vw style IAC is a three wire system. The “closed” leg is tied to ground with a 30-40 ohm resistor and the “open” leg is controlled by the Haltech. Third wire is signal 5v. The closed leg is always trying to close while the Haltech pulls open the other leg as it measures vacuum.
    It hasn’t run yet, so I’m unsure of how loud it will be.
    49fa7fc3404266b9c03e46d428cbcd53.jpg

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    You could remove the mini-filter and run a hose back in to the intake system after the filter on yours, you have that kind of IAC.  That would quiet any noise.  As they are now, both of these are mini "cold" air intakes.

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    I wanted to post my initial settings here that gets the car running pretty well. I am going to try moving fuel to -8 for accel because it’s getting about 8.8 AFR on wide open throttle. Although not sure if will learn that it needs less automatically over time or not.

    On EFI computer System
    base fuel pressure; 40psi
    injector pressure; 19lb/hr @43psi
    Fuel trim; -6 for accel setting, 0 for cranking, 0 for cold start
    AFR set to 13.9 at idle, 14.0 at cruise and 12.7 at wot
    idle set to 800 rpm
    Engine size 171
    rev limit 6000
    Throttle body “other”
    Injector count 6

    On Car
    -I set Fuel Pressure to 29 with vacuum connected and car at idle, I have aeromotive FPR might not apply if you have stock system.
    -I have my idle speed screw all the way closed on the throttle body.
    -I set my TPS to about .3 volts set this by adjusting the TPS sensor bracket verify this in the handheld display.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Out of interest, how was the fitment of the TPS potentiometer to the stock throttle body shaft?   The one I am currently working on did not look right fitment wise, however it does calibrate.  Does not like to idle cold.  Needs a few minutes of heat to settle down.

    Bay 1.jpg

    Share this post


    Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now

    ×
    ×
    • Create New...

    Important Information

    By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.