Jump to content

IGNORED

280zx 1979 2+2 slick roof restauration


dutchzcarguy

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

I think there are always things to improve on any (hobby) car but i have a small "still to do" list of things.. One is the rear carpet and upholstery stuff..

As my upholstery guy is a busy man and i'm not afraid of trying to do it myself i got to it.

 

this is terrible.. the old part...

20200719_145015 - kopie.jpg

cleaning!

20200725_155939 - kopie.jpg

 

Much better.. new upholstery by... me!

20200725_161534.jpg

Cleaned the box.

20200725_160010.jpg

 

Next part.. cleaning was enough.

20200627_102111.jpg

 

Good to go!

20200627_102123.jpg

Rear part..  not bad for a first time ..

20200716_144021 (1).jpg

 

The end result. (I installed the original (!) 41 years old carpet here!!)

20200727_150938.jpg

 

 

The radio and cassette deserve some extra attention/explaining in a 280zx..    these are the ones that where put in the Euro version (1979 in this case)  a radio from clarion in mono, speaker in the dash ( mid.top )

20200817_152009.jpg

 

For the cassette player in this case a Clarion unit.  But can also be a Hitachi?  I think i have seen both..   The cassette is in stereo.. The speakers are in the back near the rear seats ..

20200817_152015.jpg

So funny, you can play the radio and cass. simultaniously!

 

Working on some rims of 45 years old now..  tested 8 of them on a balancer and they were good to go.. to the sandblasters.. (me again... haha)  (The 9th rim was a bad one and just in the pic (lower one) for to show the difference!)  Lower one has some damage.. maybe i could weld some alu in but i got 8! good rims.. so don't think i'll do that in the near future..

20200827_161516.jpg

 

Years ago i bought a analzer for a datsun..  in a very nice condition, don't know how it works, think i need another extender so i can check a 280zx EFI system.. i got 2 extenders type: j25400-12   and i have done some investigating and need another one.. the number of that on is escaped me...

20200913_161703.jpg

A real electronic guy always want to take a look inside hey....  @Captain Obvious

20200913_161748.jpg

 

Here the extender... wrong one.. (for a datsun 280zx.)

20200913_164221.jpg

 

No idea were these go..

20200913_164241.jpg

 

Since the first of July drove about 500 km's with the 280zx  and i must say it drives very well, there are always things to improve and one is the idle speed of it. When cold it's 1000-1200 rpm and go's to 600-750 rpm  depending on how hot the weather is and how warm the engine is.. but there is to much difference so i think i'm going to put in some new sensors and maybe even check (the computer)  for old capacitors and such..  It never stalled on me but it was sometimes close with just 500-550 rpm's.  (It could ofcourse also just be a bad connection on one of the sensors..  It's parts under the hood are all 41 years old and i take my had off for it doing so well!

Edited by dutchzcarguy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, dutchzcarguy said:

A real electronic guy always want to take a look inside hey....  @Captain Obvious

20200913_161748.jpg

 

Very nice! Thanks for the pics. That tester is very cool. Hope you can actually get it to work!

Looking at the back of the board, I don't see anything that looks like a microprocessor. I I would have expected it to be computer based, but unless they used something small (unlikely during that time), it doesn't appear so.

That thing must've cost thousands when it was new.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I would have expected it to be computer based,

I saw a datecode on a powertransistor. week 05 '79..  so the machine is of 1980 or so, the microprocessor was still in development..  i think?

19 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Hope you can actually get it to work!

Hihi, yeah.. i had it with the manual, and it was laying IN between the case halves.. i thought.. it will get wrinkled this way and i left it out and thought to read it some time..  now i can't find the EFFING thing?  oh well.. it's somewhere in this house.. ;-)

19 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

That thing must've cost thousands when it was new.

I think so... i have a brand new NISSAN CONSULT, bought from a Belgian nissan (sub?)dealer!!  To check my 300zxtt i thought..  but it won't  work.  It's a complete case with all the special cables, leads everything!  Not a scratch on it... but the only thing it does is "peep peep peeeeep..  when you touch the screen..  THAT was something special in 1990 !!! A TOUCHSCREEN!!!!

I ones opened it with a friend who (maybe?) has worked on the development of your smartphones processor!  ;-)  (Samsung)   We could not get it to work after a new back up battery and some power from a transformer. :-(  

I need the servicemanual for the servicemanual-tool  haha..  you any idea where i could find the circuitdiagram of a nissan-consult 1 ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Hope you can get that tester operational.   

If only i could find that damn user manual...!!  ( I don't know if i got the right overlay but do know that i have the wrong extender.  I got j25400-12 and i need something like j25400-32 or so.. i red that long ago)

oh.. i have the extender twice (same j25400-12) so i could  exchange one..   On the other hand.. i asked myself.. why 2 the same types with this analyzer?  Is the older one (single one with a serial number!) defect and now theres a new(er) one with the analyzer?  Maybe it's an idea to open up a extender to look for damage..  yeah the older one with serialnumber 4009.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took a quick five second look on the internets for info on the tested and turned up what appears to be a manual? Maybe?
http://datsunforum.com/efi-troubleshooting-kent-moore-j25400-analyzer/

datsun_fuel_injection-105.jpg

It's in .jpg form (not pdf), so reading through it is a little more difficult.

I'm assuming you have already trawled the web looking for info on the tester and with that in mind, I'm assuming you've already been through this doc? I could get lost for hours looking for info...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/19/2020 at 10:06 AM, dutchzcarguy said:

If only i could find that damn user manual...!! 

I know it's on the net, thanks but i meant  find it here in my house.. i always prefer the original manual over a copy on the net.

It would be very nice to test a 280zx system, but..

I need the  adapter J25400-36..    and i don't think i'm going to find that one... Maybe i can change one of my J25400-12 adapters in a J25400-36.  anyway i got other things to do.. recovering from a hernia i had over a month ago..  happy i can walk again haha..

Make a copy of the net anyway, thanks again CO!

Edited by dutchzcarguy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found some pic's on the net that are the  supposed parts one would need if he wants to check a 1979 280zx EFI system..

 

This is a J25400-32   I read i need a J24500-36 adapter to check a 280zx s130 1979 model..

analyzer J24500-36.jpg

 

On the sticker it says J25400-30 ? huh...

analyzer.jpg

 

On my analyzer is a blue overlay. I need the red overlay with DATSUN on it.. But i could use some tape over the blue overlay and copy what's on the red one haha. (i bet there is not much difference.)

datsun analyzer overlay.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Haha..  These two parts 71854-64E00 and 71859-64E00 turn out to be... FROM A SUZUKI ???  I looked up the numbers on internet and they are shields from a suzuki? 

I wondered where they fit, they didn't.. not on a 280zx!  Someone restoring a suzuki of subaru??  Hahaha..   I think my old painterguy slipped them in my box of parts.. not knowing they are not from a 280zx. (they are on the net for 17-18 euro a piece.)

20200623_124138.jpg

 

There are a few things i still have to work on..  Got some new gas springs for the rear hatch. and  still have to install the pump for the rear windshield washer. and  the newish.. rubbers from the front stabilizer rod need some grease.. scweaking noise..  does someone know whats best for that rubber to lube it with?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

After about a year of driving the 280zx i decided to do the engineroom and also refresh the seals of the L28. At first i thought that i would do this in a few years but as i discovered that the engine after 42 years (!) has a small water leak into one of the cylinders i thought i better do this now. The engine runs as new but it uses a little bit of coolingwater so i took it apart and as i expected it has a small leak near a cylinder.. it was the rear (6) cylinder!  The seal was damaged there it had a kink in it.. wonder if that was since it came out of the factory because there are no clues that it was ever apart.. (still the very special orig. nuts on the exhaust flange.. and all the bolts and bits are originals.) 

Exhaustflange nuts (these where luckily the only ones that broke off besides one on the engine that i have already repaired..)

20210827_165338.jpg

So i need to do these 3 bolts in the exh.manifold... (I have sended these nuts with 35-40 kg of old parts to the company that passifies these parts so they come back as a very clean part.. drill them out, tap them and will try to reuse them!) 

 

Cylinders looked very good you can see the honing marks very good so no need to take the pistons out!

20210902_162648.jpg

 

Here i found the small leak into cylinder 6! If you look good at 3-4 o'clock  on the seal around this cyl. then you can see that the seal was not very well installed on this head! it has a twist in the seal. next pic at 2-3 o'clock it is very clear to see that the seal was not installed very well!

20210902_144801.jpg

20210902_145009.jpg

Very happy that it's just the seal that was faulty!

Here a cleaned up version of the head .. it's a N42 head by the way.

IMG-20210910-WA0002.jpg

I took the head to a firm that revise engines and they cleaned it for me.. as the head is as straight as an arrow it does not need any work. I already cleaned the valves and renewed the stem-seals of them..  Also did a valve fitment check and ground the valves (for as far as necessary) with the special abrasives..

Taking the engine out pic..

20210830_154311.jpg

 

Here a top-tip for when you restore springs..

The spring is on a little peace of sheetmetal  so the cleaning can be done between the "rings" It comes back as a new one!

20210907_145939.jpg

 

I need to take these bolt-ends out.. if you have a tip other then drill them out i like to hear from you!  (I try to get them out with some oil and if not then i cut them flat of and drill them out and tap new thread in it..)  AH.. i will try to do it with heat.. but tell me, what do you do.. wait till its colder again or try to turn them when still reasonable hot?  Has somebody used coldspray? i try that also on the bolt (not the manifold) .. (Just bought some penatraiting oil that also cools it.. the bolt will freeze!) 

20210831_123032.jpg

 

Next job is cleaning up the rest/ and painting of the engine and engine room.. to be continued.. 😉 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This week i got my parts back from the galvano company..

Nice to see that old parts so dirty come back like new..

Here the passified nuts of the exhaust manifold..  have to drill them out and make new threads in them..

20210917_133746.jpg

 

Old and new from the fuel rails (lower is '79 and upper is 82-83 rail.. Look and find the differences!) 

20210901_162722.jpg

came back like new..

20210917_123913.jpg

 

Lots of parts for zx.. (not only for my own..)

20210917_123956.jpg

20210917_124706.jpg

20210917_124717.jpg

Rare engine lower front cover for a 280zx..

20210917_125015.jpg

Look at the old spring few pics back and this is the same one..

20210917_131938.jpg

 

A pic for myself to see how it go's together again.. (the throttlebody linkage.)  one of the thausands of pics in this resto..

20210903_154930.jpg

sorted parts ...

20210917_141741.jpg

 

 

Edited by dutchzcarguy
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, bartsscooterservice said:

Looks like the exhaust stud is still in the nut ...

They are!  After 42 years they broke off..  Luckely only 1 other broke off at the 6th cylinder exhaust manifold, right at the end of the engine head.. i already took care of that one, head is ready for install.. only the block i have to clean and paint.. and the engineroom also..  Will take a few weeks..or month's.. depends on how well i feel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome thread Dutch!

I’ve got a 79 I’m working on and have been slowly prepping things for platting so I hope you don’t mind questions.

Looking at the pictures on my phone I can’t tell if everything was Yellow/Gold Zinc Cad platted or if some were also left clear zinc.

Did the heat and under shields come zinc plated from factory? I was thinking the manifold shield and the booster shield were galvanized but was not positive. Same for the under shield but I have not really looked at it yet or done any prep work to it.

And I was wondering if you knew what finish was on the radiator over flow bottle bracket? Every one that I have seen out of the car is pretty rusty like mine and you can’t see it when looking at engine bay pics of cars.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, mailnome said:

heat and under shields come zinc plated from factory?

Yes i think so but just zinc not that golden look.. I don't make 2 piles of stuff to zinc.. i always do the cadmium/zinc? i believe it's called?  

Original the car has zinc (grey-ish) and cadmium? (gold-ish) colors on the metal parts, Galvano the company that does this for me can do both but then it's twice as expensive.. i decided that it IS a car for daily drive and NOT a trailerqueen...  so the parts need to be protected against rust but they don't need to be as they were factory.. as there are few zinc grey parts under the hood there is not much difference.. (It's totally possible that i spray the coolingplate under the intake with grey heatresistent paint.. and the under engine front plate black.)

The under shield had a LOT of undercoating on it when i brought it to the firm for passifiing.. it had a little rust and where the undercoating was off it was zinc grey as far i remember..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for reply and explanation. I like your reasoning and I think it gives me some direction on mine.

I’m certainly not doing concours type build and should just go with makes me happy and keep them protected. Shiny Cad parts make me happy.

That splash shield almost looks to cool to paint, but I do understand the want to protect if it’s going to be driven.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Last week i did a bit of pain(t)work  on the engine.. 🙂 

But first some old pics, not bad after a good clean, a lot of paint is still on the engine. As this engine has only 120k Kms on it it was sufficient to take all the seals out and leave the pistons and crank in the block. (it would be very unneccessary work if i had taken it out.. as the oil was now after 1000+ kms after the restore still pellucid/transparant.

After a good clean (before sanding) i discovered a big number on the block.. i have no idea what it's doeing there..

20211005_144124.jpg

 

Painted block L28 N42

20211005_153404.jpg

20211005_153308.jpg

Zinc painted sump .. (it was a combi of first a layer of zinc and then some charcoal paint, it was a bit much so i rolled the paint what gave me this effect..)

20211002_161940.jpg

20211002_161945.jpg

The sump was in very good condition, all bolt holes where OK. As cork seals are not very good i used liquid sealer on the sump..

 

Intake manifold also ready for install.

20210923_152716.jpg

Throttle valve ready for install..

20210922_142855.jpg

 

20210922_142931.jpg

Next time a complete engine on a stand.. 🙂

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got a question..  This 280zx has a oil cooler.. does it really need one as the 240-260 engines never had one standard iirc..  

I do have some spare parts to make it a non oil cooler car.  (tube in the middle of the oilfilter is a short one.)

As i'm in the Netherlands (not that hot as in some other countries) and not racing i think that my car could run without the big oil cooler. (Much more tidy engine compartment)

Did a 280z (s30) have a oilcooler?  practicly the same engine..

WHAT DO YOU THINK? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

I got a question..  This 280zx has a oil cooler.. does it really need one as the 240-260 engines never had one standard iirc..  

I do have some spare parts to make it a non oil cooler car.  (tube in the middle of the oilfilter is a short one.)

As i'm in the Netherlands (not that hot as in some other countries) and not racing i think that my car could run without the big oil cooler. (Much more tidy engine compartment)

Did a 280z (s30) have a oilcooler?  practicly the same engine..

WHAT DO YOU THINK? 

Only the 81 ZXT got an oil cooler in North America. Not sure about anywhere else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.