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Hardway

Longer brake hoses - Anyone have them or made them?

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Has anyone ever had longer brakes hoses made for their classic Z?  I am doing some rear suspension component testing and pretty much cannot swap out anything with out opening the brake system.  It seems that if the brake line was 3-4 inches longer the system could stay closed and I could swap components at will.  Of course, I am sure the length of hose was determined by an engineer but was curious if Is spec'd a stainless set from a brake hose company would there be any negative affects?

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I don't know from experience, but in a closed hydraulic system such as the brakes--- I would think---they shouldn't be affected adversely by the addition of an additional few inches of line. Routing of the additional line length securely and safely shouldn't be too difficult.

Interesting proposition Jeff!

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Hardway.....I just finished installing Wilwoods on the front of my 73 car. The stainless brake lines are much longer with no effect on performance. It would be nice not to have to open the brake system to swing out the strut to change shocks or springs.....you would still have to remove e brake clip and outer halfshaft bolts in the rear.

Edited by Diseazd

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Thanks guys!  Running longer brake hoses is common in the Jeep/4x4 community.  Some of those guys are running extra feet of hose with no issues.  Now I just need to find a place to make me some.  I will keep you posted with what I find.

Yeah, on the rear you will never get around unbolting the half-shafts and disconnecting the e-brake cable.  That is simple stuff and does not waste anything unlike rounds of bleeding brakes.

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I think that Diseazd is saying that some of the available stainless lines are already longer than rubber.  You might not need custom lines unless you want extra long.  MSA and others sell the stainless replacements.

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I bought a set of SS hoses off flea-bay and they were about a half of a foot longer than the rubber OEs I took off. I figure they make a "one size fits alot" hose. These were the clear coated ones, $50 maybe.

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Has anyone measured the exact length of each side (F & R)? We replaced the lines when we switched to Wilwood MCs and made the fronts equal length.

As to bleeding brakes, if you're including jacking the car up, removing the front wheels, laying a cloth under the MCs, getting the 10mm wrench, bottle of new fluid and bleeder bottle, opening the right rear first, pumping the brakes, closing the bleeder, refilling the MC and moving through the other 3 brakes, putting the front wheels back on and lowering the car, then that should take you no more than 30 minutes.

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When I refurbished my car replacement lines were 240mm for the rear and 220mm for the fronts.

 

Bonzi Lon

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Two words about bleeding brakes...Speed Bleeders. Makes the process less of a pita.

 

Cheers, Mike

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Three words - brake bleeder bottle...works just fine with regular bleeders if you don't have speed bleeders. I never got around to installing them and I bleed the race car brakes 2-3 times a day at the track.

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I bought my 1995 Pathfinder new in 1994 and have never bled the brakes or changed the fluid.  254,000 miles.

Just taking the side, for counterpoint to the trend here, of the basic premise of the longer hose argument.  If it ain't squishy, don't bleed it.

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8 hours ago, gnosez said:

Three words - brake bleeder bottle...works just fine with regular bleeders if you don't have speed bleeders. I never got around to installing them and I bleed the race car brakes 2-3 times a day at the track.

This works great. We bleed after every session on the track.

Chuck

 

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1 hour ago, cbuczesk said:

This works great. We bleed after every session on the track.

Chuck

 

How does that work....can you explain how you use this device?

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 I didn't know they existed. Interesting idea but I have to question how they can afford to give them away at those prices.

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There is an internal tube on the inside of the bottle that the brake bleeder is attached to and as you pump the brakes the bottle fills with fluid so that when the pedal is released air can't get back up the line. You then tighten the bleeder, remove the tube and move to the next brake bleeder. Simple...

Chuck - I'm doing the Jefferson 500 in May. Any chance you're going?

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