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Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

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Masterful motorman7! What does one do about the often faded or scratched glove box lid? Does JustDash recondition the lid too or do you have to buy new?

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15 hours ago, drpchuynh said:

What does one do about the often faded or scratched glove box lid? Does JustDash recondition the lid too or do you have to buy new?

Yes, just dashes will do the glove box, but I am betting it is very pricey.  Best bet may be to look for one on e-bay to get one for the best price.  For faded plastic, I use that Mother's color restorer for black plastic.  That works well.  Paint is an option, but you would have to do the dash as well to avoid the color variation.

 

Below are close-up pictures of the two different dashes.  The darker pic is the new 'Just dashes' material.  the lighter pic is from my original '70 dash.  The colors are actually the same, it's just the camera lighting is different for the two pics.   While the texture feels the same to the touch the pattern is definitely different when you are close-up.  From a two to three foot distance, the texture looks very similar.  But as you can see from the close-up, it is definitely a different pattern.  I should do a little research and see if I can find the Mold Tech or Yick Sang or CH number for the patterns.

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Edited by motorman7

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LOL.....great comment .  if only it were that easy. 
 
Yes, it's definitely nice to be working with a new dash with new plastic.  It really looks nice.  Old plastic scares me as I know it is just a matter of time before it gives way.  Still trying to brace myself for the day the dash on my '70 cracks.  I am hoping that it makes it to 50 years.
The cost is expensive but necessary for a high end Z.  Throw in my transportation and it's almost $2K for everything.  If you pay on credit and not cash, then they add tax. Not sure if the tax is on the complete product or just materials.  Receipt breakdown was $875 materials, $875 Labor.  
This also makes me realize that I got my '71 for a steal.  Total cost for the car was $4K.  That included a fully reconditioned dash WITH reconditioned instruments including a working clock, and all the parts zinc plated.  Not bad.
 

Maybe if the dollar ever hits par again.... but add 30% to those prices plus international shipping and... yikes!

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Started putting the dash back back together.  Did a a little clean-up on the gauges before installation.  Also touched up a some of the chipped and scraped areas on the instruments.  Trying to decide what to do about the non-working clock.  I think I will send the clock out to this guy and get the quartz mechanism so it will last for a while and be accurate.

http://www.zclocks.com/

Although, I am really tempted to try this:

https://hyllest.wordpress.com/2014/09/28/quartz-clock-movement-into-a-240z-clock/

That might be worth my time.  I have a couple other Z's with clocks that don't work, so could be handy.

I installed most of the dash harness and will install the ducts soon.

Oh, 'Just Dashes' covered up three of the holes that that should have been open: The dash light dimmer hole, the emergency flasher switch and the odometer reset.  So, I drilled those open and installed those item.  It was a bit scary drilling into a $1750 dash, but was actually fairly simple as it was just the vinyl I had to go through.

 I also need to look into the panel lights.  I am thinking that there is a better option than the original bulbs but not sure.  I will have to look into this more.  Anyway, here are the pics so far

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Edited by motorman7

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I was looking for the speedometer dim spot that haunts my limited nighttime cruises. Everything I found and tried to view I got that upgrade image. It happened so much my anger turned to amusement. I'm sorry CO.

Maybe me and some of the guys that rely on your visuals regularly could start a "go fund me"? I could save empty beer cans and get them back up in a month or two. :)

Have you tried "my attachments" on here yet? I've got close to 90 pages so far.

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These look interesting:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle/1972-nissan-240z-instrument-panel-light-bulb?make=55&model=61&scc_id=1364&year=1972

Says they work with the standard dimmer.  Also, long lasting.  This looks like a good option and could be cheaper than the Motorsport 4 Watt incandescents.

 

PS: the photobucket images are not coming through.

Edited by motorman7
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You cannot beat the prices and how long they will last.  I am going to go on that site and order.  Which one do you think is best?

 

 

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Very nice work on the dash.  If you want to stick with incandescent bulbs for the instruments, consider the Eiko A-72.  It is a 4W bulb that is a perfect fit.  My experience with the MSA offering several years ago was that they were not a good fit unless you were willing to give up the lens over each bulb.  I really like the additional brightness from the Eiko's.

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I am leaning towards this one.  It is 25 lumens, in cool white with 90 degree beam angle.  

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-panel-light-bulb/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/

The Eiko also seems like a good option for incandescent with the 4 Watts.  I am leaning toward the brighter LED with the longer life.  Pricewise, it is just a bit more, but I like the fact that the LED would be longer lasting and maybe a bit brighter.

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8 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Don't you think FULL beer cans would be worth more to me than empty ones????   LOL

depends on the beer.:finger: oregon just raised the price of an empty can to 10 cents :facepalm:

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Haha! Yeah, I guess that's true. I can think of several beers that are worth less than ten cents to me.

For some beers, the can would be worth more to me empty than full!  LOL

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10 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Haha! Yeah, I guess that's true. I can think of several beers that are worth less than ten cents to me.

For some beers, the can would be worth more to me empty than full!  LOL

Pringle's Chips fall into that category too.

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On July 17, 2017 at 3:00 PM, motorman7 said:

I am leaning towards this one.  It is 25 lumens, in cool white with 90 degree beam angle.  

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-panel-light-bulb/ba9s-led-bulb-4-led-ba9s-retrofit-car-classic-car-bulbs/6/

The Eiko also seems like a good option for incandescent with the 4 Watts.  I am leaning toward the brighter LED with the longer life.  Pricewise, it is just a bit more, but I like the fact that the LED would be longer lasting and maybe a bit brighter.

The description on those LED lights says they last 25 times longer than incandescents.  Since my original factory installed incandescent bulbs have worked nicely for 46 years I'd be good for another 1,000+ years if I switched over.  Might be worth the effort.

Dennis

 

 

Edited by psdenno
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On 7/17/2017 at 1:19 PM, jfa.series1 said:

Very nice work on the dash.  If you want to stick with incandescent bulbs for the instruments, consider the Eiko A-72.  It is a 4W bulb that is a perfect fit.  My experience with the MSA offering several years ago was that they were not a good fit unless you were willing to give up the lens over each bulb.  I really like the additional brightness from the Eiko's.

Thanks for the suggestion @jfa.series1.  I went with the Eiko's

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Got the Eiko A-72 4 Watt bulbs.  Also got an original Nissan Glove box from the car owner this weekend.  I bet there are not too many NOS glove boxes out there.  This is the first one I have seen so it was treated with much care.  I installed the new bulbs and the glove box, pics are below.  I need to fix the glove box emblem. Not sure what to do with the rolled edges on the glove box inside sticker.  I may just leave it since it is original.

More Z CSI.  Looks like some type of work was done with the ammeter/fuel gauge unit.  As I was rotating the dash around, one of those little plastic heat stake pieces was on the glass.  When I opened it up to remove it, I saw the epoxy fix.  Interesting.

Started restoration on the steering wheel.  The key to doing the steering wheel right is to be very gentle on the 'wood grain'.  I sanded the metal with 220 grit today and cleaned the wood 'gunk' with lacquer thinner.  The 'gunk' is the black build up on the wheel.  I will do a very light sand on the wood portion, then spray with clear enamel.  Will spray the metal with satin black.  Should have this done in the next couple days.

The big news is that the car should be back from the paint shop this weekend.  Woo-hoo!  Should be picking that up on Saturday.  

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Edited by motorman7

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Continued work on the steering wheel.  After cleaning the wood grain with lacquer thinner, I gently sanded the wood grain with 220 grit sand paper.  I then taped up the spokes and sprayed the wood with clear enamel.  The wood came out nice as seen in the pics.  That's was the hard part.  I will let the clear dry for a day or two and then tape off the wood and spray the spokes with satin black.  Pics below with one before pic.

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Edited by motorman7
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Now the shift knob. I couldn't get mine exact, the knob is real wood and comes through more yellowish than the cherry or red mahogany of the wheel. I put my knob on an old shift rod and dipped it in Minwax Helmsman satin poly every day for a week. Nice hard finish that covers the plastic shift pattern button as well. It even hid the cracks in the plastic after a few coats.

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