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motorman7

Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration

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When installing the new battery cables you will need the correct battery with the + terminal under the fender, like originally from factory. That is a group 24f battery. I believe Nissan sells the correct battery part#999M1-NB24C which puts + under fender . 

The car looks great.

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Here are the new battery cables installed.  The ty-wraps are not stock, but it looks a bit nicer this way.

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Edited by motorman7
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1 hour ago, Patcon said:

Steve does nice work!

+10

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Yes, nice to have the correct battery cables in.  So much nicer.

I stripped all of the hubcaps and prepped a couple for paint with the green tape.  Unfortunately I ran out of paint, so will order some more from Amazon.  The first one came out nice.  

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I finished the hubcaps and installed them.  Also put in the new speaker.  Took the car out for a small photo shoot.  For some reason I thought the best conditions for photographs was with over cast skies, but I don't think that is the case here.  Everything reflects off of the paint.  Should have taken the photos when it was sunny..I guess.  As you can tell, I am not really a skilled photographer.   Anyway, here are a couple pics.

 

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Edited by motorman7
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Well, things are getting close to the end here.  Still waiting on a few parts to come in and the revised center section of the exhaust to be completed then she will be about ready to go.  Miguel came over today and did the final polish on the paint which actually looked pretty amazing before he even started.  After about 6 hours of polishing with three different compounds and pads, the paint is absolutely incredible.  Not a single scratch or swirl to be seen.  There are a couple pics below, but they do not do the paint justice.  I will have to wait for a nice sunny day and take some pics here to really show the quality of the paint job.

While Miguel was doing the polishing, I painted the rear carpet which really looks great.  I was a little skeptical of how it would look, but it really looks like new carpet. I should get the new luggage straps in from Jay in the next couple days to complete the back hatch area.  It should look great once these are in. Also got the hatch plugs coming in as well.

Got the horns refurbed and installed.  Also put in the final fender screws and touched those up with paint to match.

 

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Well, things are getting close to the end here.  Still waiting on a few parts to come in and the revised center section of the exhaust to be completed then she will be about ready to go.  Miguel came over today and did the final polish on the paint which actually looked pretty amazing before he even started.  After about 6 hours of polishing with three different compounds and pads, the paint is absolutely incredible.  Not a single scratch or swirl to be seen.  There are a couple pics below, but they do not do the paint justice.  I will have to wait for a nice sunny day and take some pics here to really show the quality of the paint job.
While Miguel was doing the polishing, I painted the rear carpet which really looks great.  I was a little skeptical of how it would look, but it really looks like new carpet. I should get the new luggage straps in from Jay in the next couple days to complete the back hatch area.  It should look great once these are in. Also got the hatch plugs coming in as well.
Got the horns refurbed and installed.  Also put in the final fender screws and touched those up with paint to match.
 
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Nice shirt my buddy Miguel was wearing there from ZCON 2014.

Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

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This car is amazing.  Your standard of work is top shelf!  I have one question:  Why did you choose to go with base/clear paint?  The rest of your restoration seems so faithful to original, down to hose clamps, but the paint is not original single stage.

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14 minutes ago, loyter said:

  I have one question:  Why did you choose to go with base/clear paint?  The rest of your restoration seems so faithful to original, down to hose clamps, but the paint is not original single stage.

Yes, this really was a tough choice.  I talked with my paint guy at length about the two options.  We went with the two stage in order to have a more durable finish and simpler touch-up if needed.   We also wanted the paint to really shine and standout.   

Durability is also why most of the undercarriage is powdercoated, the underside is POR-15ed,  and I put clear coat or matte coat clear over some parts (like aluminum).  Otherwise, in 4 or 5 years the process needs to be repeated.  Ideally, it would be nice to have the restoration look perfect for another 40-something years.

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Watching Barrett Jackson this weekend they said that there are 2 different types of restorers: 1 just the way they came off line and 1 who prefer to make them better than they came off the line. It is all about owner and restorier's choice of how they want the car to be. Both ways have their positives and negatives. I for one would only go with 2 stage for the reasons Rich stated.

Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

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35 minutes ago, motorman7 said:

Yes, this really was a tough choice.  I talked with my paint guy at length about the two options.  We went with the two stage in order to have a more durable finish and simpler touch-up if needed.   We also wanted the paint to really shine and standout.   

Durability is also why most of the undercarriage is powdercoated, the underside is POR-15ed,  and I put clear coat or matte coat clear over some parts (like aluminum).  Otherwise, in 4 or 5 years the process needs to be repeated.  Ideally, it would be nice to have the restoration look perfect for another 40-something years.

Makes good sense.  I agree that base/clear is better.  I was just wondering about originality.  Personally, I love single stage, but I certainly can't argue with your choice. 

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1 hour ago, loyter said:

Makes good sense.  I agree that base/clear is better.  I was just wondering about originality.  Personally, I love single stage, but I certainly can't argue with your choice. 

Single Stage today - still wouldn't be original.  To my knowledge, no one offers Amino Alkyd Enamels as mixed in the 70's - and I don't believe it could legally be sprayed today. If I'm not mistaken only water based enamels are allowed in California. Even then it is hard to get the exact amount of orange peel to show...

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8 minutes ago, rcb280z said:

Can you make a single stage look as good as a base/clear?

To my knowledge, no. Because all of the color is below the clear coat it makes it look deeper than a single stage can. It also tends to have that shiny wet look that is hard to accomplish with single stage. Also all of the UV inhibitors float to the top of the single stage paint as it cures. When you cut and buff it, you are removing the UV protection. The clear coat maintains the UV protection even after the C&B

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Doesn't clear coat break down or get cloudy after awhile?  I know my boat did after a few years but it was very much in the ultra violet rays.  My cars stay in the garage 80 percent of the time.

I'm about to get my 280 painted and any info would be helpful.

Thanks.

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8 minutes ago, Patcon said:

To my knowledge, no. Because all of the color is below the clear coat it makes it look deeper

I figured you would say that. I remember when I had mine done 20 yrs ago it was deep looking. I loved it.

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Yes, nice to have the correct battery cables in.  So much nicer.
I stripped all of the hubcaps and prepped a couple for paint with the green tape.  Unfortunately I ran out of paint, so will order some more from Amazon.  The first one came out nice.  
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Motorman,

I had my 'D' caps rechromed and still need to repaint them. What steps did you take on the hubcaps and what products did you use? Also, how closely did the paint you use match the original color?

Thanks,

Robert S.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

To my knowledge, no. Because all of the color is below the clear coat it makes it look deeper than a single stage can. 

My car is single stage.  It's a different character.  I've always thought single stage looks deeper, while base/clear looks glossier. 

zzz

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3 hours ago, rcb280z said:

That is correct. 

Can you make a single stage look as good as a base/clear?

Depends on how you define the terms.  

All enamels are Single Step so to speak... in a sense. You spray them on - they flow out to leave a high gloss finish.   But when we say base/clear, the word “base” at least to me -  indicates a 2 Stage Paint Job. First Stage is to spray on the Base - that finishes out DULL… the Second Stage is a Clear Coat that melts into the Dull Base and brings out the Shine. 

 

You can spray an enamel on the car - that by definition with flow out to leave a shiny surface. Then Apply a Clear Coat on top of that - to add protection and gloss. That is two steps, but not a 2 Stage Paint job.

 

The 2 Stage Paints were developed to solve the previous generations of Clear Coat problems - i.e.. cracking/crazing/graying. However with the newer and higher quality Clear Coats today - using the manufactures recommended paint and clear coat - most of the older problems have been solved.

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10 hours ago, EhlersRS said:

Motorman,

I had my 'D' caps rechromed and still need to repaint them. What steps did you take on the hubcaps and what products did you use? Also, how closely did the paint you use match the original color?

Thanks,

Robert S.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 

Not sure what Motorman used but these look good.  Maybe the same spray?

 

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13 hours ago, EhlersRS said:



.What steps did you take on the hubcaps and what products did you use? Also, how closely did the paint you use match the original color?

 

I did exactly what @siteunseen mentioned above.  It looks great and is the closest I have seen to the original.  Although, I did use the 'Bulldog Spray adhesion before the paint coat.

 

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