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EuroDat

Upgrading a 280Z EFI to Spitronics Mercury 2 ECU

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Hi all,

Some time ago a fellow member Lenny was in the process of making an aftermarket ECU which would be a bolt-in replacement for the standard ECU. It was a great idea and I was hoping it would be a success. Unfortunately Lenny was sided tracked and the project stalled.

I like the retro EFI in the 280Z, but I would like to have something tunable and it’s getting harder to find good functioning parts for the 280Z.

Now for so something I never thought I would do: Fit an aftermarket ECU.

Now how to go about it. Which system should I use and should it be a complete swap or partial swap?????

The choice soon came down to 3 systems.

1: The LinkECU G4+ Atom or the G4+ Storm. http://dealers.linkecu.com/atom

2: Spitronics Mercury 2. South African system for 2 up to 12 cylinders with lamba sensor. http://spitronicsuk.co.uk/category/install-guides

3: Perfect power XMS5B. German system for 4, 6 & 8 cylinders systems with lamba sensor. https://www.perfectpower.com/index.php/products/stand-alone/xms5a

Megasquirt was not in my short list because I couldn’t find anyone locally with tuning experience.

In the end I chose the Mercury 2 because a friend is using it in a Toyota and getting great results. The technical people at Spitronics are friendly and didn’t hesitate sending HEX files of different systems that would work on the L28. They had some files for a 280ZX and a L28 with EFI. You can also download a lot of stuff from their website.

 

There are so many possibilities on the mercury(like the others) from single coil to coil on plug with wasted spark and injection pulsing twice per revolution to sequential injection. I would like to start simple with my single coil and running my Bosch  low impedance injector in pairs on 3 drivers.

I’m am now busy making the harness and brackets for mounting the ECU where the old unit was.

To do list:

1. Assemble harness

2. Make bracket to mount ECU

3. Make adapter to fit Bosch TPS variable resistance sensor

4. Make bracket and fit MAP sensor

5. Remove AFM

6. Machine plug for Lamba and weld in exhaust pipe.

7. Remove all unused equipment.

8. Tune it enough to run and eventually dino tune. Need to drive it 45km to the dino shop with Spitronics experience.

I don't have much time atm, but the car is now in for the winter, so that will give me some breathing space until March next year.

I know it's a long first post. I'll post some photo's of what I have done soon:)

Chas

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Today I was busy making a brackets for the TPS and the ECU. The throttle body is from a 280ZX and I plan to use it on the 280Z. Ill take more photo's tomorrow in the daylight.

TPS Bracket.jpg

TPS Mounting block Rev2.pdf

Edited by EuroDat
drawing added

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"Spitronic"?  Is "spit" the way "injection" translates from Dutch?

@ ing superlen... @superlen  He might be out there.

Once you're free of OEM EFI box you'll be looking for more power.  Cams, head work, yada yada...

Edited by Zed Head

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Here are an overview of the things I have gathered for this project.

I was thinking about fitting the Spitstonic into one of my reserve ECU's, but I'm since then changed my mind. Ill just make a bracket to fit it where the old ECU was mounted.

The link http://www.spitronics.com/shop/index.php shows basically the kit I ordered, plus a coil driver, fuel pump relay combo and a idle controller. Still waiting for the modulator vale to come in. So far the kit set me back about €250 and then €78 for the Lamba sensor, new LX507 reluctor pickup and a bosch VW golf TPS.

Still not sure what I will do with the AFM. It's not needed, but I could rig it full open and leave it for a retro look or remove it altogether.

My biggest problem atm is my exhaust pipe. I need to weld in a plug for the Lamba sensor. Removing the downpipe with probably mean fixing broken studs etc.

IMG_2467.JPG

IMG_2468.JPG

Website.JPG

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Chas, I thought Megasquirt  was inexpensive, Spitronics is even cheaper. I don't see any mention on their site of the software used to tune the setup for individual applications or do they set that before shipping it out to you?  What are you using for Idle Air Control?

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Chas, Looks great. Good luck with the project.

I've never messed with any of that stuff, but if there's anything I can do to help, just let me know.

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7 hours ago, grannyknot said:

Chas, I thought Megasquirt  was inexpensive, Spitronics is even cheaper. I don't see any mention on their site of the software used to tune the setup for individual applications or do they set that before shipping it out to you?  What are you using for Idle Air Control?

Hi Chris.

The software is in the download section. If you make an account you can download everything for free.

I made some screen shots of the software. It wasn't connected to the ECU so it doesn't show the maps I have in it now. Should have loaded the simulator to give a better picture of how it looks. There is also an Android app for the ecu, but no apple yet.

I have been picking bits out of the files of different vehicles (more than 80 in a Zip file and even more on there users forum). Im using one from a Nissan 300ZX (Z31) 6 cyl, but it had a wasted spark ingnition, so I used one from an old toyota single coil 6 cyl and plotted the 280Z distr. advance curve.

TuningSoftwareScreenshots.jpg

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5 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Chas, Looks great. Good luck with the project.

I've never messed with any of that stuff, but if there's anything I can do to help, just let me know.

Thanks captain, I might take you up on that. Im bound to run into a brick wall somewhere in the project.

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Are you using the 280ZX TB just because it's off the car and easy to work on, for installing the TPS?  Or is there another reason?  The 280ZX TB is actually smaller in diameter than the 280Z TB.  Which is odd because, as many know, the ZX engine is rated at higher HP (calculation formula change and all of that).  Anyway, the hose to the ZX TB is smaller than the one to the Z, in case you weren't aware.  Might help make your AFM decision.

Edited by Zed Head

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6 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Are you using the 280ZX TB just because it's off the car and easy to work on, for installing the TPS?  Or is there another reason?  The 280ZX TB is actually smaller in diameter than the 280Z TB.  Which is odd because, as many know, the ZX engine is rated at higher HP (calculation formula change and all of that).  Anyway, the hose to the ZX TB is smaller than the one to the Z, in case you weren't aware.  Might help make your AFM decision.

I noticed that yesterday as well. Never knew the 280ZX had a smaller throttle body. I haven't measured them yet. I'm basically using the ZX unit because I can work with it in the bench vice and leave the car alone.

Unfortunatly I don't have any exhaust manifold to play with, so the xar will be off the road when Im working on the Lamba sensor.

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I only know because I picked up a spare complete ZX engine.  You do know the later ZX's have the lambda sensor in the exhaust manifold?  It's the narrow band type and the manifolds are shorter so the down pipes don't swap.  I don't know if the threads and bosses are the same either.  But if you realize that you're going to end up removing manifolds, it might be an option.  I've been pondering using a 1990's Nissan EFI system on my car so have looked at some of these things also.

Looks like lots of fun.  Will you be running your three injector drives as a single batch fire or grouping them in to a sort-of semi-sequential system?  I don't think I've seen a three x two system.

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25 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I only know because I picked up a spare complete ZX engine.  You do know the later ZX's have the lambda sensor in the exhaust manifold?  It's the narrow band type and the manifolds are shorter so the down pipes don't swap.  I don't know if the threads and bosses are the same either.  But if you realize that you're going to end up removing manifolds, it might be an option.  I've been pondering using a 1990's Nissan EFI system on my car so have looked at some of these things also.

Looks like lots of fun.  Will you be running your three injector drives as a single batch fire or grouping them in to a sort-of semi-sequential system?  I don't think I've seen a three x two system.

I have a lot of ZX engine parts too, because a friend found an old clapped out zx and used the block and head in his 240Z. Kicking myself now for not taking the exhaust manifold and down pipe. Also have a lot of parts from a 280Z 75, but left that manifold because it was for the N42 with square ports.wall.gif

Ill be running the injectors in 3 groups of two, 1&6, 2&5, and 3&4. 1 pulse per revolution, 2 pulses per firing. Because I'm using low impedance injectors, they will be wired in series. If I go to the o-ring (EV6) injectors with high impedance then Ill need to use all 6 drivers.

I won't be running sequential injection. Need a trigger wheel for that and if I go that route I would like to try a sensor in the backing plate measuring drill outs in the flywheel.

Edited by EuroDat

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Haven't been very active the last months. Personel  issues getting in the way.

The ECU is fitted in the position where the original was. Removing a lot of parts not needed for the new ecu, lke the AFM, TIU, CSV, AAR. Still working out what to do with the fuel pump relay. The ECU has a system where it runs the pump for five seconds when the key is turned on and stops the pump when the distributor signal falls away.

I started tinkering with the exhaust downpipe last weekend and made an adapter for the bosch 4 wire lamba sensor. That ws a challenge getting the three bolts out without breaking any off. Ill try to get the adapter welded in on the weekend and the new exhaust all fitted up.

I'll take some photo's of my progress this weekend.

A nice surprise came in today. Ad was so kind to drop off the new Abarth exhaust personally and say hello. Nice present for my birthday. It's been on my "wanna have list" for a long time.

Unfortunatly I'll only have the weekend to work on it, as next week I'm back off to Aus.

 

 

20170208_172844.jpg

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On 15-1-2017 at 6:11 AM, CG240Z said:

Would this trigger system work for you?  Austin Hoke makes some high quality Z parts.

 

Hoke Performance Crank Sensor

 It should work fine. I was thinking of using something like this, but first I want to get it running with as little extra mods as possible.

I would like to go with a wasted spark system eventually.

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Well it's been a while, but Im back at it. What I have done so far:

- Removed the AFM and made a tube with the air temperature sensor.

- Removed the AAR and CSV. Not sure if I want to use a stepper motor like the bosch units in the 2003 - 2009 Land rover of simmilar device for cold starting.

- Fitted the map sensor.

- Made an adapter to mount the O2 sensor in the downpipe. Getting that welded in on Friday.

- Stripped one bolt of the three bolts in the down pipe flange. The other two nuts came off ok and I removed the studs without breaking them.

- Removed the TIU. The new ECU will activate the coil through the blue wire that went to the old ECU.

- Fitted the Relay (with coil driver). This is an intelligent relay. It will run the pump, but cut off when the engine stops. When the relay see a 5 volt active signal from the ECU, it will run the pump 5 seconds and then wait until it receives a pulse from the coil. Nice and safe.

- Wired in the original temperature sensor and distributor pick-up. Thermotime not required.

- Dissabled the vacuum, but still need to remove the springs in the mechanical advance. Check the rotor phasing.

Ill take some photo's over the next couple of days.

So far it's cost me €420 for the ecu kit (ecu, relays, map, air temp sensor, 4 wire bosch O2 sensor & harnesses) + shipping + tax. Extras like heat shrink, 1.0, 1.5 & 2.0mm2 wire, variable 3-pin tps, pipe to replace AFM etc etc has set me back about €100. Looks like it will be a little under €550 ($600) when Im done.

I'm currently searching for the terminal connector on the EFI harness to connect to the dash loom. The one on my harness is in good condition, but I dont want to hack up the harness.

If someone has an old harness, that has been used for spare parts, and still has this terminal block, I would like to buy it if possible.

Here are some photo's of the connector.

 

20170523_221322.jpg

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Its not clear on the pic is this a 4 pin 2.3mm?

I should have what ever you need (I installed a Painfull cabling and kept all the original)

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Thanks @munters for the offer. Btw: It is the 6x 6.3mm spade, non-latching connector plug.

@ZupThanks for the link. I had forgotten about them. Browsed through their website and found some other connectors and a couple for a mates Celica.

Im glad I don't have to hack it off my harness. I would like to keep it, kind of just in case.....

Harness-2.jpg

Harness-1.jpg

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I took some photo's of the progress I made, the last couple of days.

Spitronics-AFM-1.jpg

1. Pipe with air temperature sensor to replace the AFM.

 

Spitronics-MAP-1.jpg

2. MAP sensor to replace the AFM function.

 

Spitronics-OSs-1.jpg

Testing position of the O2 sensor.

I wanted to fit it in the EGR port, But there was not enough space between the manifold and the firewall for this type of O2 sensor.

 

Spitronics-TPS-1.jpg

TPS. It was already fitted last year, but now it's wired and the ECU is reading the signal when I move the throttle.

 

Spitronics-FUS-1.jpg

Realy and Fuse block to power the ECU.

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Im in canada right now. Will be back in switzerland mid june if its not to late then.

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Thanks for the offer Munters. I sent the link from Vintageconnections to a friend with a celica. He wants to place a an order and I will try to order a connector there.

In the mean time Ill use simple crimp connectors to get it running. If the vintageconectors don't work out, I'll send you a pm.

20170527_205323.jpg

Didn't have much time today, but managed to clean up all the wiring and wrapped it in a simple spiral wrap to keep it tidy and allow easy access.

Finished the relay and fuse block and made a bracket to mount the ecu and fuel pump relay /coil driver. I was hoping to mount the new ecu in the old case, but that proved to be too much trouble. Eventually the kick panel will be fitted with an enlarged hole to check the ecu indicator lights and cover up the mess.

I disconnected the TIU since the coil driver will take over. The coil driver is going through the original harness and connecting via the old ECU blue trigger wire in the photo above.

Stil have a couple of things to do before starting: Distributor advance and phasing, and fitting the new exhaust system plus welding in the O2 sensor fitting.

Tonight I'll play with the maps and download them tomorrow so it will start and run.

 

20170527_205252.jpg

20170527_202735.jpg

20170527_202824.jpg

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