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Pyros2

73 240z Water Temperature Switch

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My current part's wires rotted away at the base and I haven't been able to find it.  Would really appreciate the help.

Thanks,

Mark

partneeded.jpg

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Hi Mark--

I'm looking for the same switch/ sending unit. It activates an EGR solenoid on the exhaust manifold on my 73 240Z.

Yours (if that is a photo of it) looks to be in otherwise good shape--are you sure you cannot re-solder the wires?

Is your car a 73 240Zor is it a 74 260Z?

Let me know if you find a source---I'll do the same for you.

 

Zup

 

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if you have a spent thermotime switch you could try this. Or you could buy what you need for 100$ plus last time I checked at MSA. I don't think the housing you have there would work well per the video, needs the larger sealed thermotime. I am sure there is a better option but finding the right thing is daunting, I looked at several, if you can find a NC fan switched that opens at the right temp it may work. I did this since I had the parts.

 

Edited by Dave WM

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I found a variety of switches out there when I was trying top put an injector cooling system together.  Seemed like BMW uses several.

The only reference to a switch for the EGR system in the FSM seems to be one that resides in the cabin of the car and actuates at about 30 - 52 F.  Are you sure it's not for the second set of points, on a dual point distributor?

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mine is a California car, single point set up, with a EGR that is controlled by the water temp switch, mounted on the side of the thermostat (not the front with the other stuff).

Edited by Dave WM

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The 240Z chapters say passenger room temperature.  Could be one of those translation things.  If the car is only driven in the summer the cold setting is probably never used, by the specs. anyway.

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Here's some info I put together a while ago about the water temp switch:

Interesting that, as Zedhead suggested, the documentation indicates the location of that switch to be at the passengers feet in 73. In 74 they supposedly moved it to the thermostat housing, but prior to that time, it's supposed to be inside the interior. Appears that the documentation is wrong.

Also, none of that helps you find one, but thought you might like the read. :)

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Zup,  That picture is not mine and it's an August build 1973 240z and it's a manual.

 

Captain Obvious,   Thank you.  I saw your previous links but couldn't get any of them to work, so thanks for reposting.  Most of the information out there seems to be for the 280z and I've never come across a part that was as mysterious as this one.

-Mark

Edited by Pyros2

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I have a 1976 280Z and the ignition system control switch is the two wire type, but with a loop that grounds through a bolt head instead of a bullet.  The wire usually breaks off and the switch becomes worthless.  The're a fairly decent picture in the Emissions chapter.  Included below.

I found a similar picture of a 1972 thermo housing.  But they only show the sender.  Pyros2, does the part you're trying to replace look like the picture you posted or are you assuming that ti does?

You might be able to use the later EFI temp switch.  The systems all seem to run both the EGR and the dual ignition, using a relay.  The FSM range is close though, 57 - 63 F.  "Warmer than cold" seems to be the goal.

1976 switch.PNG

1972 thermo.PNG

1976 EGR.PNG

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I'll take a look but the part I posted in the one I need.  Mine is the same except no wires.  There isn't enough room or good wire to connect new leads to it.  A lot of the Datsun wiring is speaker wire level and not very impressive.

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I think that Dave WM took a switch apart and replaced the guts with a common thermal switch.  @Dave WM

I was suggesting that the the 280Z switch would perform the same function, just using a different ground point.  Or you could replace the loop with a bullet and have the same connections.  If you can find one.  Good luck.

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that is exactly what I did, just gutted an old thermotime (same size threads but much deeper and sealed) found a thermo swtich on ebay for a couple bucks, stuck it in, filled with oil, then sealed it up. works fine. Just have to make sure you know if its NO or NC and what the temp it activates at.

Edited by Dave WM

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