Jump to content
madkaw

New project-72

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the referrals . Still not positive about the center bushing . The rubber bushings didn't come with one, but I know the urethane bushing utilize one.
I actually got the orientation of the washers and rubber correct. I guess I should use the bushing from the poly kit with the rubber bushings?


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not sure I would trust that the length of spacer tube they use for the poly bushings is the same length as the ones that come with the rubber.

I measured the length of the tube in this AC Delco kit to be 1.813 inches (46mm) long. You can compare that to the tube from your poly bushings:
tckits1.jpg

And by the way, this Delco kit is still available from Rock Auto, and I think it's very high quality for an excellent price.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I like that you get all new hardware . Thanks for the measurement so I can compare. The bushings I got from Z car Depot were Nissans

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yup. Getting all the hardware with that kit was the main reason I took a chance on it the first time. And then I was so impressed with the quality, I bought two more to put on the shelf for the next time. The bits fit right, the large washers are very stout, the small washers are the right size ID. You might even consider buying two of those kits just for the hardware? I'm not sure you could find all the right parts without the bushings any cheaper (currently under $10 per side).

Important note... The pic on RockAuto's site doesn't show the correct kit anymore. The part number is still there and when you order that part number, you get the right kit, but the pic is just the rubber bushings. Good way to keep the good kits available to those "in the know" and not bought up by all the masses.  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

I'm not sure I would trust that the length of spacer tube they use for the poly bushings is the same length as the ones that come with the rubber.

I measured the length of the tube in this AC Delco kit to be 1.813 inches (46mm) long. You can compare that to the tube from your poly bushings:
tckits1.jpg

And by the way, this Delco kit is still available from Rock Auto, and I think it's very high quality for an excellent price.

Bruce - I previously bought this kit for my project a few years ago.  When I recently wanted to recommend it to a friend, I found that the product pics at Rockauto only show the bushings, no longer the metal components.  Several Google searches came up with the same results - rubber only.  Is this a recent purchase?  It would be great to find out that it still has all the items in your pic.

Jim

Edited by jfa.series1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, it's a recent purchase. I just bought a pair about a month ago. The photo is wrong, but the parts are right.

Buy AC Delco P/N 45G25036 {#88913234} and you will receive the kit in my picture, regardless of what is in the pics on other websites.

That's why it's our little secret.  :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, madkaw said:

Poly metal bushing is 51mm

With how much harder the poly is, I'm not surprised the poly tube is longer than the one for the rubber bushings. I hope you like that Delco kit as much as I did. Hoping I didn't steer you wrong. Pun intended.

So, are you planning to half-n-half the bushings poly/rubber? That's what I did.

And I'll snap a couple fresh pics showing the correct orientation of everything.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
OK, Here's some fresh pics of the tension rod bushings. I opened one of my new spare packs for the pics. Here's how the bushings should be installed. Thicker rubber sides outwards, and the washers concave in pushing towards the rubber. Smaller support washers on first and last:
P1090925_zpsassy05ak.jpg
 
Here's how it should look if you're doing half-n-half with rubber and poly. Poly in the front, rubber in the back:
P1090927_zpsp8kwhitd.jpg
 
And here's a shot of mine on the car. Best I could do half blind sticking an arm under there. Wildly snapped ten pics and got one that worked out OK:
P1090935_zpsj5f6kxf1.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so much for the inside tip! Ordered several sets and they were just as you stated!

Thank you Mike for getting the pic uploader fixed :)

I'm about read to restart this thing , but the fuel pump had a different idea. PO had installed the pump without the phenolic spacer and I think it did the diaphragm in. It doesn't seem to suck hard enough to draw the fuel. Still amazed me that the owner drive it here and it made it. Still waiting on new cam spray bar anyway. I was hoping to set floats up with my new float sync tool, but got everything else ready to go- I think. 

Plenty of other stuff to do . Front suspension is about done and brakes are bled . Put the new wire harness boot on. It reminds me of those nature vids of a snake swallowing something huge. 

Drained the diff fluid to change it out to only find that I couldn't budge the fill plug. So now I have an empty diff . I am redoing the bushings on the rear suspension so I guess I will just drop the diff out at the same time

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My pleasure. Glad to help.

So what's the deal with the distributor block off plate? Is that just to keep stuff from falling down in there until the distributor is installed, or are they doing some fancy DIZ crank pickup thang?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just keeping the muddy water out during cleaning process . Never had an engine as gunked up as this one. Putty knife, wire brush , gallons of degreaser

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take a propane torch to the diff cover, fill plug should come out easy once that Aluminum is nice and hot. ;)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I guess a day I can have the garage door open for a while to clear out the stink. Momma doesn't like it when the house stinks up. I did consider that option, but knowing I have to pull out the complete read suspension for bushings and inspect the diff mount , I might just wait.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Buddy had an old fuel pump and bingo we are back in business . I guess running that pump without the spacer did it in.
Also got the plug out Leon with some serious heat.
Now to put the exhaust back in and fire it up


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/24/2016 at 0:31 PM, madkaw said:

Buddy had an old fuel pump and bingo we are back in business . I guess running that pump without the spacer did it in.
Also got the plug out Leon with some serious heat.
Now to put the exhaust back in and fire it up


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Alright, good work Steve!

22 hours ago, jonathanrussell said:

I like the cutout valve cover. I have a plan to do the same and seal with plexi or something so I can watch oil flow to the valve train.

FWIW, I prime fresh motors with the valve cover off (internally oiled cam). Last time I did it, I primed with the rockers removed as to not run them dry. Oil everything up and spin the motor until oil starts flowing from the lobes. It takes longer than you may think.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a drill and a long metal rod down the distributor hole to the pump, no valve cover.  Start on low or you'll get splattered when it fills all the lines.  Works good I think.  I've discovered some bad holes on my spray bar before start up thank goodness.  

The rod I'm using now came out of a new clothes washing machine I bought.  It's purpose is to keep the the basket locked during shipping.  Ground one end down similar to the pump/dizzy drive spindle.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well the front suspension is done and moved on to the rear . Same story as up front with dry poly bushings, and throw in there a totally separated front diff mount . The original arrestor strap did its job and kept the diff at bay. Found a few bolts not torqued and a bad spindle pin, but everything is repairable - and almost done. All new rubber bushings back in and stock mount and strap for the diff. New spindles all around . Hope to have it her own her own legs today, but will see. Half shafts getting new universals and boots with the main driveshaft also with new joints. 

Can say enough about how nice it is to work in a rust free machine. We haven't had to replace hardly any hardware and it still looks good too

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I recently did some diff mount and strap work on my car, and as part of that work I switched over to socket head cap screws for the front lower diff mount. I found they were much easier to work with than the original hex head bolt hardware if you ever have to mess with the diff mount again in the future.

I've started a thread with lots of details here:
http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/55955-my-new-diff-mount-and-strap-project/

But the summary for the hardware change is that the socket head cap screws allowed me to use a hex drive on my ratchet from the bottom to turn the mounting bolts. Looks like this:

P1090781_zpsezywmqol.jpg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rear suspension is done and I drive her down the highway yesterday !!

Despite no door seals , hatch seals and a leaking muffler - it was a bit of a victory drive. Fumed out a bit from the lack of seals and a rich mixture didn't wipe the smile of my face at 65 mph :) 

More tuning to do and some temporary seals will make the ride even better. The engine ran very strong though it's lack of maintenance should say other wise . The last original engine component - water pump- gave out shortly after the highway run. Too much rust to injest and it threw it all up in my garage over night, Hopefully the rust treatment for the block got most of the nasty stuff out . Time to drain and put antifreeze in. 

Transmission shifts hard from 1st to 2nd gear, but  I guess that's better than slipping into gear. Other than that the auto box works pretty damn well. Might need to take it for a fluid change and band adjustment - even that can be done on the Jatco.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.