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    GAS GUSHING OUT!

    Okay, I have a good battery, checked and have spark at the spark plug, but still wouldn't start.  I took each park plug out to see how they look, and everything was fine until I got to the last plug #6, and gas gushed out, maybe a quart or more!

    i do have an aftermarket electric fuel pump in it, and I had been trying to start it the past few days on and off.  

    Any deas gang?

     

    thank you

    Troy

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    This is a pretty easy one to think through.  How can one cylinder get more fuel than the other cylinders?  What provides the fuel to the cylinder?

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    They don't usually stick open because there's a spring inside that shuts them.  Could still happen but could also be an electrical problem, a short to ground on the ECU side.  Unplug it and check that the terminals in the plug aren't grounded.

    The Engine Fuel chapter in the FSM has an excellent description of how things work, with diagrams.

    1975 EF.PNG

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    I suppose a simple test to see if it's electrical or mechanical would be to disconnect the plug for the #6 injector -- if you still get issues after removing electrical power from that injector, then it would be reasonable to assume it's mechanically "stuck open" ... if you no longer have "gushing" gas after disconnecting it, then it's electrical.

    Do you have a copy of your factory service manual? The PDF's have been distributed heavily over the years and are widely available online.

    Regardless of what you do next, if I were you, I'd be tempted to remove all the plugs, pull the fuse for the fuel pump, and just crank the motor over a few times to make sure there isn't any extra fuel sitting in the cylinders... when I hear "gushing" in the context of fluid coming out of the cylinders, I'm not immediately instilled with confidence. Enough gasoline in there, while trying to crank, and you could do some damage. Fluid sitting in a cylinder could also explain the strained/slow cranking speed. You're going to want to do an oil change after this is over too. 

    I'm also chiming in because I see that you're in Minnesota, and I was curious if you were part of the Z-Owners of Minnesota group. I think you said earlier in the thread that you were in Washington County -- I'm in Minneapolis, so I'm probably not super close to you, but there might be some other folks in the group who are closer that might be willing to do a drive by. I know diagnosing 40-year-old EFI can be tricky by yourself if you've never done it before.

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    It seems the car is testing my resolve.  The starter is cranking over as it should, but I can't get it to start.  I tapped on the injector and the problem seems to be solved. But I still can't get her to start.  Theses 40 year old cars are tricky at times.

     

    Troy

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    Too much fuel?  No fuel now that you fixed #6?

    You had the engine apart.  Have you verified all timing events, cam timing and ignition timing?  No offense, but your trials with the power wire to the fusible link show that you may not be as familiar with how things work as you should be.  I get the impression that you're assuming that you put everything back just like it was so it should start up just like it did.  But you already missed one important wire.  I'd go back and check all of those important things.  Write them down and tell us what they are.  You'll probably find the problem while you're doing that.

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    I was very careful in my rebuild, although I will admit it was my first, I took considerable time and followed the books.  That being said, I could've missed, or not calculated something.  I'll look through my notes, and pictures.  Needless to say I'm concerned and frustrated.  I appreciate the help.

    Troy

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    Shoot some starter fluid in the brake booster bung on the  .  Intake manifold, that'll let you know if it's fuel related.

    Pull a plug wire off and see if it's sparking.

    Look at the AFM again. Make sure the plug is on tight and the ground wire is on one of the mounting bolts.

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    8 hours ago, Taxelson said:

    It seems the car is testing my resolve.  The starter is cranking over as it should, but I can't get it to start.  I tapped on the injector and the problem seems to be solved. But I still can't get her to start.  Theses 40 year old cars are tricky at times.

     

    Troy

    Have you got the small wire plugged into the solenoid on the starter? That'll keep it from starting.

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    Yes, I have the wire plugged in, good question.  I did check for spark on the plug, they are getting spark.  That's what I can't understand, I have spark, obviously I HAD a lot of fuel, but still won't start, weird.

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    1 hour ago, Patcon said:

    Are you sure your timing is not 180d out?

    Happens all the time.  You could have the small side of the dizzy drive spindle backwards, small side goes to the front.  

    8.jpg (65787 bytes)  8377d1298650384-280z-timing-problem-oilp

    40001045.jpg

     

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    I haven't done it yet but I think you move the plug wires on the distributor across from where they are supposed to be.

    So 153624 one eighty out would be 624153. I think that's right. See the pictures above in that post. Try it and see. The proper way would be to drop the oil pump and retime the spindle gear. The notch on the pump should match the dot on the shaft.

    I'd do the easy first, move the wires. You should get it at TDC with the front two cam lobes resembling rabbit's ears or a V. The first two valves should be closed, the round part of the cam lobe down on the rockers with the tips facing north west and the other north east. That's the compression stroke where TDC must be. If you set it up on the exhaust stroke the rotor button would be facing the cabin instead of the radiator, that's 180 off. I can help better with pictures but unfortunately I'm on my phone.

    Sorry for muddying the water, it's Saturday and I've been working in the yard. LOL

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    cant you just pull the distributor up a bit and turn the rotor 180*? older Chryslers are that way. they look the same as the picture

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    9 hours ago, sweatybetty said:

    cant you just pull the distributor up a bit and turn the rotor 180*? older Chryslers are that way. they look the same as the picture

    Nope,  the distributor shaft tang mates to the oil pump shaft in only one position,

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    16 minutes ago, S30Driver said:

    Nope,  the distributor shaft tang mates to the oil pump shaft in only one position,

    The strange thing is that I have seen someone get the distributor 180 out before. Don't ask me how, but it happened.

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    8 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

    The strange thing is that I have seen someone get the distributor 180 out before. Don't ask me how, but it happened.

    If you have these backwards it would be easy to do.

    17500dot-med.JPG

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    I'll look at it tomorrow morning, got busy with some work stuff. I may need to take off the valve cover and look at the marks.  I'll look in the morning

    thanks 

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    11 hours ago, SteveJ said:

    The strange thing is that I have seen someone get the distributor 180 out before. Don't ask me how, but it happened.

    I remember a thread on that.  Seemed like they must have forced a worn out groove over the tang.

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    So today I had a friend come over, we made sure the timing is set right.  We checked every injector, all have pulse, all spark plugs have spark.  We both are stumped.  It cranks over, no problem, just won't fire.  We tried to spray starter fluid in the intake as well, made no difference.  Any ideas.  Coil, ignition, ?.?

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