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Patcon

1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

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I worked on the sub frame some on Sunday afternoon

So this is where I am starting at

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I had already pulled the floor pan back out at this point

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We got one side pulled out but the drivers side, that took most of the impact, wouldn't come all the way out

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The drivers side bumper mount had been pushed back and no amount of slamming on that hammer was going to move it. So more spot weld cutting!

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the results

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It will take some dolly work now, but I will wait on the new bumper before I refine it.

The new problem is after several hours of dolly work on the rear panel it looks much better. But it needs some shrinking and where I welded in my patch I set the curve in the incorrect shape. I will probably have to slit it and reshape it so it will fit the car properly

20181230_120209.jpg

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1 hour ago, jfa.series1 said:

Pretty awesome work!  Clearly time-consuming and often frustrating.

Thanks!

Yes, it can be frustrating.

Here is the latest frustration.

The car got wider above and below the floor!!!!

I don't see how that's possible

The slam panel aught to go all the way to the yellow line, it's about 1/16" short now

20190101_122420.jpg

The lower valance aught to cover all the rust and there is a small tear that aught to fit into the corresponding rip

20190101_122437.jpg

This is probably off by an 1/8"

The car doesn't really flex. I don't know if I can pull it back together. I also don't see how the car could have gotten wider from the pulling. If anything it should have gotten narrower. 🤔

 

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2 hours ago, jfa.series1 said:

I'm not a body guy but it might be that when you removed the rear panels it released some tension that resulted from the collision.

I considered that.

I got the top pulled together with out too much trouble

20190101_140207.jpg

The bottom, not so much. I got a lot of it back, but not all of it. There is a good bit of tension on that chain

20190101_160123.jpg20190101_170311.jpg

I need to figure out a solution for these clips

20190101_170629.jpg

The little clips that hold the tail light finisher are actually a loose piece. They are just clipped onto the brackets.

Anybody got any ideas?

I would think someone could find a suitable replacement. @240260280 Hoover??

20190101_170631.jpg

I also worked on the rear finisher trim. I wanted to get the trim off so I could strip the panels and paint them. I did manage to get it off. So I can clean it and polish it. Then I will reinstall it, I hope.

20190101_173135.jpg20190101_173143.jpg

My two big concerns are, can I get it back on and will it scrape the paint off when it goes back on. We'll see...

 

Edited by Patcon

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Watch out for the tail width and the bumpers.  A 240z I restored had fibreglass quarters installed many years ago and they were wider than stock. The bumper fit very close:

240z bumper gap6.jpg

I'll have a look for clips.

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I wondered about width as an issue. I am waiting on the bumpers to come in to verify everything is correct.

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That rear valance is looking a bit like FrankenZ with all that stitching! LOL  I've always been too chicken to try and remove the stainless trim on the rear finisher.  I choose to blue tape it for my refinish work.  Two sets completed and on the shelf now.

100_2891.JPG

Edited by jfa.series1
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14 minutes ago, jfa.series1 said:

That rear valance is looking a bit like FrankenZ with all that stitching! LOL  I've always been too chicken to try and remove the stainless trim on the rear finisher.  I choose to blue tape it for my refinish work.  Two sets completed and on the shelf now.

100_2891.JPG

I thought about that, but they was some rust near by and I was concerned it was underneath the trim. Hoping if I go this route and remove all the rust. What did you use for refinishing the panels?

Also, as an aside, these panels are EASILY bent. They can also be straightened by hand if needed.

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I found a part number for the clips 79907-E4101

Evidently NLA

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15 hours ago, Patcon said:

 What did you use for refinishing the panels?

Other than primer of your choice, I use a process developed by one of our forum members: Duplicolor BFM0360 FORD DARK SHADOW GRAY, topped by Duplicolor HWP106 WHEEL MATTE CLEARCOAT.  Here's a closeup pic of a grill I've done to show the color.

Fascia-07.jpg

Grill 08.jpg

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18 hours ago, Patcon said:

I considered that.

I got the top pulled together with out too much trouble

20190101_140207.jpg

The bottom, not so much. I got a lot of it back, but not all of it. There is a good bit of tension on that chain

20190101_160123.jpg20190101_170311.jpg

I need to figure out a solution for these clips

20190101_170629.jpg

The little clips that hold the tail light finisher are actually a loose piece. They are just clipped onto the brackets.

Anybody got any ideas?

I would think someone could find a suitable replacement. @240260280 Hoover??

 

20190101_173135.jpg20190101_173143.jpg

My two big concerns are, can I get it back on and will it scrape the paint off when it goes back on. We'll see...

 

I removed the chrome strips when painting and they went back on without any problems

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8 hours ago, nix240z said:

I removed the chrome strips when painting and they went back on without any problems

Excellent!!!

Thanks Steve. I still need to come see you, if only to visit and see your progress

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@Patcon

The clips are made of spring steel. You can tell the good ones from the bad ones by picking on them with your fingernail when they are in place. If they resonate with a high note they are good----low note they are cracked. Cracked ones tend to allow the finisher panel to pooch-out under vibrations. They just don't grip the finisher panel tightly enough.

I have a spare set of the finisher clips for you.

I need to get over to the storage building and dig them out. I'll send them once I find them.

Edited by Zup
nevermind
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21 hours ago, nix240z said:

The little clips that hold the tail light finisher are actually a loose piece. They are just clipped onto the brackets.

I wonder if the clip-on design was chosen to provide a bit of compliance for positioning the finisher panels.  Or maybe it was just a strategy for reducing assembly time. 

If time permits, please post a 'front' and 'back' picture of one of the clips.  I can't see the detail for how the Clip clips onto the body bracket.

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7 hours ago, Zup said:

@Patcon

The clips are made of spring steel. You can tell the good ones from the bad ones by picking on them with your fingernail when they are in place. If they resonate with a high note they are good----low note they are cracked. Cracked ones tend to allow the finisher panel to pooch-out under vibrations. They just don't grip the finisher panel tightly enough.

I have a spare set of the finisher clips for you.

I need to get over to the storage building and dig them out. I'll send them once I find them.

That would be fabulous Jim!!!

What is the original finish? Were they painted with the car? It seems like black chromate would be the right color for them...

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6 hours ago, Namerow said:

I wonder if the clip-on design was chosen to provide a bit of compliance for positioning the finisher panels.  Or maybe it was just a strategy for reducing assembly time. 

If time permits, please post a 'front' and 'back' picture of one of the clips.  I can't see the detail for how the Clip clips onto the body bracket.

I will work on them this weekend

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8 minutes ago, Patcon said:

What is the original finish? Were they painted with the car? It seems like black chromate would be the right color for them...

@Patcon

On every car I removed them from they were painted the body color of the car. Both cars were original paint cars. Hadn't been re-sprayed. (They were too far gone for that) :cry:

 You can't really see them when the finisher panel is installed. Only the bottom edge of the clip is visible and it doesn't project beyond the finisher panel. Flush or slightly short, IIRC.

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I agree they are not very noticeable below the finisher. I thought I might plate them to prevent them from rusting. I don't see being able to get them well painted if they are on the car. We'll see

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On 9/30/2018 at 6:58 PM, Patcon said:

I also worked on the steering rack this weekend

These tags were in the rack when I disassembled it. The were wrapped around the large nut that holds the inner tie rod to the end of the rack. I did not reinstall them

20180927_170029.jpg

 

@PatconYou know that voids your warranty right? 😀😀LOL

I bet a beer you even rip the tags off mattresses and pillows..... Buwhaaaahaaa

 

Did you ever get the Toyota brake upgrade figured out? I have a set I got from the junkyard for core use but just boxed them up. You want?

 

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4 minutes ago, wal280z said:

@PatconYou know that voids your warranty right? 😀😀LOL

I bet a beer you even rip the tags off mattresses and pillows..... Buwhaaaahaaa

 

Did you ever get the Toyota brake upgrade figured out? I have a set I got from the junkyard for core use but just boxed them up. You want?

 

Actually I cut them off! ROFL

I think I have it figured out. The rotors are on the car with the calipers rebuilt and set. Thanks for the offer though! :beer:

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Here are some of the clips. Two halves and a whole. the whole one is cracked on top. They are difficult to get off. You have to bend the tab up some to get them off. I will prime them good before they go back on the car. Then readjust the welded tabs

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Stripped two of the three finishers on Saturday

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This is the rust I am trying to deal with

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Especially under the trim

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Worked on the finisher trim

Stripped the paint off of them first

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Then did some polishing with a hand held wheel and the buffing stand. It turned out really nice so far

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I was going to double check that the trim is stainless but my adult kids brought me some illness over Xmas, so I didn't spend any time in the shop today. 🙄

 

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Did some work on the rear end panels

I want to close up the holes so I don't have the big puddle welds again. So I ma going to weld some of them smaller and some I am going to patch entirely then drill a new hole

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Here is the latest episode on ugly welds? It's not a gas issue and not a contamination issue. I figured it out, but anyone have any guesses?

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I took a grinding die and rounded out the holes and started making small metal patches. I would have finished today but I didn't do anything productive today.

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Cody had a great idea on how to make the patches. I took some light card stock and traced the hole onto. I cut that out then I cut a scrap of metal that is a little larger. Then I take a set of small nose welding clamps and clamp them together with the pattern on top. A 2" grinder with a 36 grit roloc and I trim them to shape. I made like nine of them late on Saturday. I have like 25 total to make!

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