Jump to content


compression rod?


Recommended Posts

so, i have the front suspension torn out and almost ready for paint. when i removed the compression rods, this is what i found


the new bushings from energy suspension look like this


my question for those of you who have replaced these parts is this. what kind of washer did you put on the rod between the new bushing and the rubber boot? will too thick of a washer throw the alignment out of whack enough to make a difference?


thanks all   sb 


Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's a factory washer that's thicker and more rigid than average, and designed to fit against the step on the rod.  And another to go on the other side of the sandwich.  What you took apart is an aftermarket kit, designed to make the front control arms more stable.  The factory rubber is pretty floppy.  You might be able to get replacements for the spherical pieces and kep using what you have.  If you go with the ES urethane you'll want to only use the front and use factory rubber on the back.  The rod ends tend to break off otherwise, from flex fatigue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good question. There is a central metal tube/sleeve inside the rubbers that the large washers get squeezed together until the washers bottom out on that sleeve. Once tight, the bushing pair are automatically centered on the frame by virtue of both bushings being made of the same stiffness. As you drive, that rod is in compression (accel) or tension (braking) which deforms them somewhat.

Having a poly bushing on the front and a rubber bushing on the back implies that the static position is NOT centered affecting caster somewhat. Take a look at the rubber bushing before and after torque up and see just how much it crushes. 

One note that I brought up before here, the torque spec for the nut on the end is to obtained ONLY once the washers lock up on the central sleeve. There are situations where you might reach the torque spec BEFORE that happens, like dirty threads, very stiff bushings or TC rod not at a neutral position forcing the bushings into an awkward position. 

We had a big thread elsewhere about this where folks were using two nuts to lock them up as they were coming loose. Using a new locknut is important, as well as ensuring you have sleeve clamp down.  



  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.