zcardepot.com

Door Locks 77-78 280Z *NEW PRODUCT*

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    We now have in stock new door lock cylinders with keys for 1977-78 280Z.  The 77-78 cars use a different door lock mechanism  than the 70-76 Z cars,  which has not been available for sometime.  We had the arm custom made out of stainless steel to fit our new lock cylinders.  So we now have a ready to install lock set with keys for the 77-78 cars.  

    https://zcardepot.com/interior/door-parts/door-lock-cylinder-set-with-keys-77-78-280z.html?search=door+lock

    650-157 77-78 Door Lock Cylinder.jpg

    • Like 4

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    Great addition to your product line!   My passenger side lock arm has been missing for a long time.

    And perfect timing, added them to my parts order today. :)

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    I have one newer lock on mine, but I would welcome a new PAIR.  Can the locks be re-keyed to fit my original door key?

    Actually, on mine,  it wasn't the arm that wore out;  it was the keyed knob on the end that matched the keyed hole on the arm.  We switched the locks left-for-right, and they worked for a few more years while I located the ONE new OEM lock.

    It would be nice if the locks were made of a more durable material than the original ones.

    Edited by TomoHawk

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    The only thing I can't find anywhere is the upper strut bushings.  Mine will do, but I've replaced every other bushing so far.

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    I ordered the locks and a few other small bits, and the locks look exactly like the factory locks.  I was hoping they would be made of a better metal alloy that will last another 40 years, but you will only have to wait and see, and use the locks as sparingly as you can- fortunately, you can reach the door lock knobs from the hatch, which has a very good lock now.

    I'm pretty sure that you can get the locks re-keyed so you can use the original key.  You do have an original set of keys that you keep only for making copies, right??

    Edited by TomoHawk

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    I received my lock set and they appear quite well made.  The main difference from the oem ones is the locks do not have the spring to return to center.

    Replaced the arm on my pristine original lock but missing arm on the passenger side today.  The new arm fit my original lock with just a small modification (filing).

    Door lock now works perfectly.

    I do have the lock serial number & the original black / silver keys.  Will get them re-keyed & change out the driver side, plus I'll have one spare lock.

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    My locks have never had a spring on them so I won't miss them.

    I don't mind changing the lock, but you have to remove the door panel (and the darn window crank) then pull off the moisture barrier sheet to get to it.  If the moisture barrier would keep from tearing, it would not be so bad.- putting it on in the first place was hard enough.

    Edited by TomoHawk

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    I think these 77-78 locks do a great job to fill a previous gap in the availability of parts for the later model year cars and I applaud zcardepot for the investment to make this happen. The lock bodies themselves have been available for cheap for quite some time, but the actuation arms on the backs were only available in the early design for cars prior to 77. It looks like zcardepot has bit the bullet and had tooling made to make actuation arms stamped and bent to fit the later cars. Excellent, and overdue!
     
    So for the person who wants to swap out his old worn out non-working 77-78 locks, these should be a drop in replacement with the only issues being 1) you'll need to have them rekeyed to be the same as the rest of the car (or carry more keys), and 2) you won't have the self centering return springs anymore. None of the cheap aftermarket replacement locks have the factory style return to center springs, so if your locks have already been replaced in the past, you won't miss them.
     
    The only other thing to be aware of is... Because of the way these locks are designed, you can't just swap the actuation arms off these locks onto your old original 77-78 locks. Most of the arm design would work fine, but the hole where they mount onto the shaft sticking out the back of the locks is a different shape. As S30Driver one of the many Jims found out, you can make it work with some filing of the hole in the actuation arms, but you can't directly port these new arms over to your old locks.
     
    My previous owner took a different approach and cut off the original 77-78 actuator arms and welded (if you can call it that) them onto the aftermarket arms. They're ugly, but they work and they're out of sight - out of mind. If I ever go back in there again, I'll be buying a set of these replacements instead to get rid of the PO's questionable workmanship.

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    Captain Obvious is correct !!  These arms will only fit the new door lock cylinders we sell as the point of engagment is a different style than the originals.   Note to self:  We should probably make some exact copies of the originals for those who want to keep their original cylinders.

    Edited by zcardepot.com

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    This is the kind of vendor support  and thinking which we all should applaud loudly.

    May I be the first to thank you for going the extra mile!

    18 minutes ago, zcardepot.com said:

     We should probably make some exact copies of the originals for those who want to keep their original cylinders.

    Jim D.

    "Zup"

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    Not intending to quash the inventive and supportive spirit, but I'm not sure there's much of a point to reproduce exact copies of the original arms. Reason being, it's not the arms that wear out, it's the soft mushy lock cylinders. When the locks fail the actuator arms are fine, but the cylinders are toast.

    And in the rare instance that you DO happen to turn up an NOS lock cylinder (with the original shaped engagement hole), you can just move your original arms over to the NOS lock body.

    I mean... More power to you, and I know everyone, myself included, appreciates the support, but I'm thinking there must be a higher priority project to work on?  :)

     

     

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    I was thinking the same thing.  The shaped/keyed button on the end of the cylinders were worn, but the hole in the arm was fine.  If the lock cylinder was made of steel, or even had a better shape (such as square) for the arm connection, then we should not have to worry about the cylinder end wearing out, and a thicker arm would keep it just as long-wearing.  Look at the old  door locks from the American makes of the 1950s & '60s.  They are still in use, work well, and only have a bit of slop (after a million insertions & uses.)  Whatever they are made from, it was definitely a good thing.

    Edited by TomoHawk

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    21 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

    I'm thinking there must be a higher priority project to work on?  :)

    Ha--so true!

    Like maybe uuummmm----wait for it-----wait for it----------Boat Anchors!!   :P

    • Like 1

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    Just to report back, I ordered a set and everything looks good.  My 77' had a new ignition installed by a PO and had a different key for the doors/hatch like the 240s and 260s.  I have Nissan keys and wanted to use my old keys so I went to a locksmith (two actually) to have the new locks rekeyed to the old key.  They are grooved like the ignition key so I thought I would wind up with a different key for the hatch only.  It was a no bueno at both locksmiths,  Apparently the new keys are ever so slightly narrower than the old and the old keys will not work with the new locks, we could not even fit the old key into the new lock.  Bummer. I don't mind having two keys for the Z but if I installed the locks I would now have to carry three keys.  I'm not sure I could handle a three key scenario so I'm going to have to let this one stew a little.

    IMG_1226.jpg

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    Just to be clear ..., did the locksmith disassemble one of the locks or did he just try to insert the old key in the new locks?

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    Niether locksmith disassembled the lock,  Both tried to insert the old key, then examined to new and old keys and pointed out the small size difference. Both said no way.

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    Bummer. Are you sure that your current Nissan ignition key is the correct blank for those new door locks?

    What's the dimension that's different? Old key a tiny but fatter? Did the locksmith measure the keys or just do a go no-go test?

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    I don't totally understand. The new key is thinner, so the old ignition key won't fit in the new doors locks? "Mic" the blank thickness. You could take a flat file to the sides if you only need a few thousandths

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    Sorry if I didn't explain very well.   Here are some photo's I hope will make it clearer.  It was explained  by the locksmith that there are two reasons why the Nissan key would not fit into the new lock

    Here are the two keys. On the left is a factory Nissan Key, On the right is the New Key from the new lockset.  Both key are 2 mm in width so they are compatible that way.  But notice the small difference in width on the Blade between the two cuts where the red arrows are. I couldn't measure that with my cheap calipers but  the Nissan key has a little more width in that spot.

    IMG_1472 with arrows.jpg

    Here is a different angle to show the difference in the width of Groove on the right.  I don't have digital calipers (because I'm cheap like that) so my measurements were not exact, but the Nissan key groove measured about 1.75mm while the New key was a little over 2 mm maybe 2.2 mm.

    IMG_1469 with arrows.jpg

    The second reason was the depth and shape of the smallest groove. The Nissan key (bottom) is deeper than the new key (top). Once again, I could not get an accurate measurement.

    IMG_1470 with arrows.jpg

    I'm sure that the replacement locks function just fine and would be quite adequate If I weren't so picky about using the Nissan key (I just think it is cool) but there still is the problem of matching the Hatch lock.  My locks work….. mostly. They are worn and I have reversed/swapped them so that I can unlock the car with a key. I just can't lock them with the key. I can hold the handle up when I close the door to lock,  but if the door does not close all the way I have to use the old disco bump to ram it home.  It's just not a pretty sight when somebody notices the car and an older guys gets out and rubs his butt on the door. 

    Has anyone had success with rekeying the new replacement locks with an older key? I would love to find a way to make it work.

    Edited by gwri8
    spellin an phonics

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    I don't think the second issue about the groove depth is really an issue since the deeper groove on the old key wouldn't cause an interference problem with the new locks, but that first measurement of the width of that section sure is. Makes me wonder if they are really the same blank, or if it's just a tolerance issue. Or maybe just a manufacturing screw up or "artistic license"?

    I don't have any original keys, but I'll dig out my collection of aftermarket blanks and see if I can glean anything helpful from the pile.

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    On many locks the grooves match a shape at the outer edge of the lock. The tumbler assembly doesn't have ridges all the way in. If the Nissan locks are like this you could modify the entry to the lockset with some mini files until the key goes into the tumbler section.`

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    Sorry bring up old topic....

    My original '78 locks have gone, and I have seen Zcardepot replacement locks previously, nice to see.

    Now, I have a pair of NOS earlier up to '76 locks, can I just put the arms above ('77-78) on? The design of the arm to lock hole looks the same, the same indent within the 8mm hole. My NOS body looks longer than the '77-78 replacement lock, what length are yours Zcardepot? Or will it not work, due to the orientation of the arm on the lock?

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