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CDL1542

Clutch/Transmission Fitting Issue

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Hi all, I've been really cranking away at my Z (11/70) and put my stroker in as well as the new 5 speed. My issue is fitting the old clutch cylinder to the new clutch fork. On my old 4 speed transmission the fork had a hole in it for the threaded rod to go through and I could compress the clutch fully. However on the new one, this hole does not exist and I can't compress the rod fully to bolt the clutch to the new transmission. Really hoping for some suggestions on this and thanks in advance for the help.

 

Chris

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44 minutes ago, siteunseen said:

From all I've read, I'm about to do the same, you'll need a newer fork and slave cylinder.  There's a thread around somewhere we were just talking about, can't find it now.  Sorry.

Thanks for the reply. I have a newer fork in there already so I am guessing that means I need a new slave cylinder.... would really like a second opinion before I spend some money and do all the work if anyone knows!

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46 minutes ago, John Coffey said:

Just drill a hole in your existing clutch fork.

Well I gave that a shot too and I dulled 4 bits in the process.... barely scratched the surface of it. The clutch slave does have an adjustable nut on it if there's a slight difference. Maybe I should get a decent bit and give it a shot.

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The adjustable push-rod version is from the 240Z series I up to around August 71. Drilling the clutch folk for the adjusctable push-rod will be challenging, specially if its in the car. You will also need to drill is oversize to allow movement. It works like a fulcrum. Drilling it out to 1mm bigger than the push-rod will probably make it bind up.

 

I would buy a later version slave cylinder and leave the clutch fork as it is.

Advice: Dismantle the slave cylinder and clean it before you install it. It's very common to find remnants of the machining in the bore and that will only reduce the life of your new slave cylinder.

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Euro gives good advice.  Replace the hose too, it's probably aged.

The one thing not said, that we're all hoping isn't the case, is a too-tall collar.  But, a later clutch kit would use a later clutch fork and slave cylinder, so odds are that's the way to go.

You could try cutting the slave cylinder rod down first.  It should come out with the rubber boot.

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3 hours ago, EuroDat said:
4 hours ago, zKars said:

Good luck drilling it. Possible with the right  bit, but slave cylinders are pretty cheap on Rockauto, like $10-$12. Just get the one that has the fixedad length rod. 

 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=484886&cc=1209260&jnid=436&jpid=12

Thanks for the link!!

3 hours ago, EuroDat said:

The adjustable push-rod version is from the 240Z series I up to around August 71. Drilling the clutch folk for the adjusctable push-rod will be challenging, specially if its in the car. You will also need to drill is oversize to allow movement. It works like a fulcrum. Drilling it out to 1mm bigger than the push-rod will probably make it bind up.

 

I would buy a later version slave cylinder and leave the clutch fork as it is.

Advice: Dismantle the slave cylinder and clean it before you install it. It's very common to find remnants of the machining in the bore and that will only reduce the life of your new slave cylinder.

It is a series one car, so that does not surprise me. I think I'll forego the attempted headache at a $12 price tag and replace the hose while I'm at it. Thanks for the tip on cleaning it too, never would have thought about it.

2 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Euro gives good advice.  Replace the hose too, it's probably aged.

The one thing not said, that we're all hoping isn't the case, is a too-tall collar.  But, a later clutch kit would use a later clutch fork and slave cylinder, so odds are that's the way to go.

You could try cutting the slave cylinder rod down first.  It should come out with the rubber boot.

The adjustable push-rod version is from the 240Z series I up to around August 71. Drilling the clutch folk for the adjusctable push-rod will be challenging, specially if its in the car. You will also need to drill is oversize to allow movement. It works like a fulcrum. Drilling it out to 1mm bigger than the push-rod will probably make it bind up.

Thanks!

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Drill it from the back side, not from inside the cup.  Use a small bit to create a starter hole.  Use lube.  Go slow.  You don't need to drill it oversize because the threaded rod pivots at the slave cylinder.

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