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New Fuel Tank


bhermes

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I was reading some past threads about the E8312 pump I have. It appears that this pump gas no strainer/inlet mesh filter. I'm thinking that when it was installed prior to my tank cleaning it may have been damaged.

I am considering remounting the tank, replacing pump with clear filter between rank and pump.

Comments.

Does it make any sense that this might cause a once every 3 weeks stalling while driving.

Thanks.

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When you have debri inside the tank it takes awhile to get far enough in the system to cause problems.  Before I found out about the filter right out of the tank I was buying the metal filters that go in the engine bay 2 at a time.  I had to change them about once a month, didn't do that too long.  Does it do better until the fuel level gets low?

 

I remember reading where one guy was having problems with his but didn't have time to clean the tank so he put a strong magnet at the lowest point to attract the rust so he could drive it.  On my carbed car it was so bad it wouldn't make out of the neighborhood.  It would sputter until it just quit, then I could pull the hose and blow back towards the tank until I heard a gurgling sound, put the hose back on and drive it home.  When I finally drop the tank here's what was in there, almost a  pound of crap.

post-23570-0-56516500-1436727730_thumb.j

 

 

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That looks like what I found a couple years ago when I first dropped my tank cleaned and coated. I am thinking that the last bit of debri is clogging the fuel pump inlet. Since I have no filter between the tank and pump and no strainer in the inlet of the after market pump.

I suspect my coating job was not perfect. Tried but who knows.

Not sure I can correlate the problem to fuel level. Sending unit does not work accurately.

Stalling has only occurred once in the last 2000 miles. Give or take.

Thoughts.

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Sense the problem is only occurring once every couple thousand miles, and no real rust in gas drained from tank (maybe a little particle matter), I have decided to repair a couple small pin holes in tank by soldering and simply painting the outside of the tank.  Not sure if there is a preferred paint for this?  I am also, from advise from others on this site, going to stick with my current fuel pump and add a clear filter between the tank and pump.

 

Couple other notes; replacing fuel filter, plugs and plug wires, cap and rotor, one injector, and ignition switch.

 

Hopefully as the problem occurs less and less as time goes on maybe the problem is working itself out.  Who knows.

 

Thanks.

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Just to add to the discussion and not blur it any. The inlet filter or strainer in Siteunseens post#12 is for the Bosch type fuel pump. The strainers in the JECS type pump are shorter and wont fit inside the bosch inlet. The Bosch strainer is loose in the JECS inlet.

The new pump and the one in the car in that post are both Bosch, even though the new one is in a Nissan box. The giveaway is the black plastic around the terminals. I have only seen JECS with light blue coloured terminals.

They all (Bosch and JECS) have a strainer in the inlet, although a lot have been removed over time.

It is a very good idea to fit a G3 filter in the line and forget about trying to find one of these old strainers. The block easily and you can not see its blocked without removing it.

Trivia: In my searching I found an article for bosch and some photo's of a JECS pump in Bosch packaging with Bosch's own part number on the box and "Made in Japan" on the box. It appears when Bosch stopped making them for a while they used JECS and Nissan was also using Bosch pumps for a while. The Nissan box must be NOS. I don't know when they started using JECS or when JECS stopped making them. I have seen a 79 280ZX with one, so it could be somewhere around then they started, if that was still an original pump.

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Sense the problem is only occurring once every couple thousand miles, and no real rust in gas drained from tank.

I drained mine a couple of times while shaking the rear of the car and not much came out. I was surprised how much can out when I cleaned it and coated it. Something my back took a couple of days to get over. Won't be doing that again.

You could still have a lot of rust and debris floating around in the tank, but the flow through the drain only takes the stuff very close to it giving you an impression its fairly clean. That was my experience.

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So I welded the pin holes in the tank. Luckily no explosion. It appears that the cleaning and coating I did a couple years ago may be ok but the G3 filter should tell the real story. Everything should be back together by the weekend.

One question, is there any test to prove if the pickup line has a hole?

Only other concern I have on the tank at this point.

Thanks.

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The only test I can think of is the one I tried. Fill the tank with just enough fuel to cover the pickup. Connect a clear hose to the pickup and then set the tank on a table or higher that the ground. If you hold the clear tube a meter high let it syphon into a bucket and watch for bubbles. When it stopped syphoning I added another 5 liter to the tank and tried again until the 5 liters filled the bucket. I had no bubbles during the hole test.

Maybe someone has a better method, but I couldn't think of any.

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The tank is cleaning up nicely, outside. After scraping off all the fuel dried on outside and some rust I found about 10 small pin holes. Welding them up tomorrow and spray painting black.

If decided to try and get my sending u it working properly if possible. I am looking for the resistance specs. Just a quick check and I seem to be getting readings from 140 down to 16. Not sure if the higher resistance is full or empty setting. Any help finding resistance numbers would be great. Unit looks a little rough but may just need a little cleaning.

Thanks.

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