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Matthew Abate

1973 Rebuild

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1 hour ago, Matthew Abate said:

Someone stop me now if you have a compelling reason this is a mistake. Everything I’ve seen says not to cover the entire surface because it doesn’t add anything but weight.

I don't know if it is compelling or not, the tar mat that nissan put on the large flat areas of sheet metal was to stop the metal from vibrating at most if not all frequencies.  The Dynamat type mat does that but also works as an insulator to baffle sound and the foil layer helps keep heat out of the cab.

For instance the firewall inside the cab, Nissan used fiberglass insulation covered with tar impregnated fiber card and it only went up so high.  If you remove all that and cover the firewall and up behind the dash with Dynamat you'll notice how much quieter it is and the foil is helping with heat from the engine.

Trying to make a 240z quiet inside is a thankless job but you can certainly knock it down a bit by planning out your layers.

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Right. I had planned to do other forms of insulation and soundproofing beyond the Dynamat. Haven’t quite figure out what yet.

so you’re saying that more Dynamat might not be a bad thing?

Edited by Matthew Abate

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2 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

so you’re saying that more Dynamat might not be a bad thing?

That's what I've found but I'm sure not everyone agrees.  When I'm driving the Z it is usually on the Hwy so I tried to minimize the road noise as much as possible.   Inside the cab the first layer on top of the primer was a Lizard skin type coating of micro spheres or glass balloons in a paint base, then the Dynamat, then dense automotive insulation and finally the carpets.  

It is not modern car quiet but it's pretty good, yes the car is 50-60lbs heavier than it was but I have some extra HP under the hood to compensate.   The 240 was designed as a sports car so minimal creature comforts, I went more for a Grand Tourer.

 

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Yeah, I’m going that direction as well. The wife won’t ride in a “sports car”, hence the air con and insulation.

Im also starting to think maybe I don’t need the precut kits. $600+ seems like a lot.

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I think I paid $100 for that 6'x6' piece of insulation from a automotive interior shop.  Don't forget the doors, try and cover as much of the door skin as possible, it's like a snare drum in there.

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On 12/4/2020 at 4:08 PM, Matthew Abate said:

Okay, next thing on my plan is to put down some Dynamat sound dampener. I’m planning to place it strategically and NOT cover the entire interior of the car. Someone stop me now if you have a compelling reason this is a mistake.

That's the approach I've taken with the last 3 cars I've done, including the Z, and I've been happy with the results. Put the Dynamat on the large, flat areas and MLV and/or insulation throughout to block noise.

I haven't actually measured, because of laziness and overall disinterest, but I'd bet money that my 280z is less noisy than my wife's 2005 Ford Escape.

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Need a little help.

I cannot for the life of me figure out where these two insulation clamps go on the fuel and brake lines.

B477B6FE-FF94-482E-B845-3A42DB2DF3FF.jpeg

Edited by Matthew Abate

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Thanks, but I’ve got all of those in place. I know the one on the right goes somewhere because I have one that came on the car, but I’m not sure about the one on the left. I cannot find the spot the left one clips to at all.

I think the one on the right just clamps to the tubes and not the car itself, but could be wrong.

Edited by Matthew Abate

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1 hour ago, Matthew Abate said:

Thanks, but I’ve got all of those in place. I know the one on the right goes somewhere because I have one that came on the car, but I’m not sure about the one on the left. I cannot find the spot the left one clips to at all.

I think the one on the right just clamps to the tubes and not the car itself, but could be wrong.

You are correct

Off of memory, it is in the tunnel near the diff

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Okay. I maybe didn’t put it exactly where it goes, but the bigger one with 4 holes is now near the emergency brake mechanism. Once I put it on, everything sort of settled into place better, and it’s keeping one of the lines away from a spot it was rubbing, so I think it’s doing it’s job.

the one with 3 holes is still a mystery. I chased all the lines and couldn’t find a place where there was an empty bracket, particularly where I have 3 lines. Wondering if this is a 280 part.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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Well, I got the caliper on and then realized I don’t have the e-brake brackets. Cant find them anywhere, and I ordered the kit so long ago there’s no way I’m getting them to send free ones, so I had to order another set.

And of course the balancing weights on the inside of the rim are hitting the caliper.

Edited by Matthew Abate

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Looks like all that is available is the 240sx version or the ones from Silvermine. Anyone got any tips on how to get the e-brake cable guides for the maxima calipers?

Edited by Matthew Abate

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776971C7-65DD-415C-B7B5-585647876866.jpeg

You can see one curving up and holding a cable on the bottom right corner of the image above.

Here’s another one:

6CE0267A-3F6E-4EF4-A671-EFE540B3C23F.jpeg
Note that it puts the cable in line with the hook. Original Nissan PNs are 44196-08E12 and 44195-08E12.

One more:

03D14E59-D781-48D7-A618-BC298BA9A257.jpeg

Edited by Matthew Abate

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So you are missing the thick bent brackets.

Do you have a torch and a way to shape them? I can probably provide dimensions

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Yes, the curved piece with the forked end that the cable goes in and is held down by a spring clip.

I have a torch, a vice with an anvil top, and various hammers. I could probably make the if I have to, but am trying to find factory parts before I go there.

Edited by Matthew Abate

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19 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I did that same rear brake swap about 7 yrs ago and those curved parking brake brackets were very hard to source then, you may have to make them. 

Yeah, I have a feeling that’s gonna happen. However, I think the 84-86 300zx also used this caliper, so I am going to call some yards before I go down that route.

Also, MSA has a kit with these. I am going to try to get them to sell me just the brackets. Long shot, but worth it.

Edited by Matthew Abate
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ST Suspension front and rear sway bars are in:

BBE1C5D6-6DCC-40E3-8659-6BE05FE4F537.jpeg

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One thing I thought was odd... the instructions said to leave a 1/16th gap on one of the bracket bolts where they mount to the body. I wrote the manufacturer and asked for clarification. Right now they are torqued to the specs in the FSM, but they do look a tad over compressed.

Edited by Matthew Abate

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12 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

One thing I thought was odd... the instructions said to leave a 1/16th gap on one of the bracket bolts where they mount to the body.

The rear sway bar doesn't mount to the body so could they be referring to the front sway bar?  Quite often the front sway bar will actually hit the body frame rail when in full compression unless you include a 1/16-1/8" spacer above the bushing.

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I was speaking generally because I was too lazy to type it out on my phone. 🤣

I’m not referring to the oval shaped washer that goes between the front sway bar and the frame. The instructions say to leave a 1/16th “ gap on both the front and the back brackets. Literally, an air gap.

This seems like a bad idea. I can see maybe putting washer in there, but then why not just make the bracket the right size?

Edited by Matthew Abate

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Could you show a picture of the instructions?  I tried to find them on their site but they don't have them.

https://www.stsuspensions.com/productfinder?c_year=1973&c_make=67&c_model=2284-20&c_car=34251-81-108-4-14492&pgs=292&ag=stsuspensionsantiswaybarkit

By the way, even though the bleed screw is pointing up I think that the entrance to the caliper bore is at the bottom, if if it's a straight drill hole.  Probably have problems bleeding.

image.png

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50 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

Could you show a picture of the instructions?  I tried to find them on their site but they don't have them.

By the way, even though the bleed screw is pointing up I think that the entrance to the caliper bore is at the bottom, if if it's a straight drill hole.  Probably have problems bleeding.

I’ll post the instructions when I get home this afternoon. Do you think I should flip the calipers to the opposite sides? Right now I have them on the sides they would be on in a Maxima.

Edited by Matthew Abate

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