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5 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Thanks for the encouragement guys!

 

So status report:

 

They forgot to weld up the holes the previous owner put in the doors for those crappy plastic mirrors that were in it when I got it. That’s going to set things back a minute. Otherwise, I need to get tires on those rims and get the suspension out there so they can fit the doors correctly. They are suspicious that the gaps will be different if they do that work on the rotisserie.

 

My dad has also made progress on the head after having it at the welder. Looks like we’re taking off another 0.002. 😕

 

—-

 

Open questions:

 

Do I want blacked out or body color wheel wells?

 

Do I want rubberized undercoat or just leave it at the lizard skin and paint?

 

Do I want lizard skin on the inside of the roof? I think it might screw with adhering the “headliner.”

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

 

I blacked out my wheel wells because the car is yellow. The factory had them body color, but I figured they would show wear less if they were black.

I ran rubberized undercoater. It worked ok, but I had some areas that didn't adhere. I think that was due to a cheap product. I would do it again.

I shot lizard skin sound and heat on the inside of the roof panel. No problem adhering the headliner. BTW it is much easier to install the headline with the car on the rotisserie and upside down.

The shop maybe be right about the panel gaps. It wouldn't surprise me at all if the chassis flexes significantly on the rotisserie

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2 hours ago, Patcon said:

I blacked out my wheel wells because the car is yellow. The factory had them body color, but I figured they would show wear less if they were black.

I ran rubberized undercoater. It worked ok, but I had some areas that didn't adhere. I think that was due to a cheap product. I would do it again.

I shot lizard skin sound and heat on the inside of the roof panel. No problem adhering the headliner. BTW it is much easier to install the headline with the car on the rotisserie and upside down.

The shop maybe be right about the panel gaps. It wouldn't surprise me at all if the chassis flexes significantly on the rotisserie

 

I sprayed the front wheel wells with truck bed liner, then followed up with a light dusting of color.  No problems with paint adhesion.  I avoided the spraying bed liner in the shock towers as I did not want to  provide a place for dirt, moisture, ...etc. to begin a build-up.  The towers were done with POR-15 topped by brush-on color.

Jim

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Edited by jfa.series1
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As mine will be a fair weather queen, I sprayed the body colour and clearcoat in the wheel wells, mainly for show....

 

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So I have a conundrum. I’m not sure which lug nuts to get.

These wheels have a hole diameter of about 16mm and the depth is about 22mm.

I think I read that the lug bolts are 50mm long, but I’ve already dropped my suspension off at the painter and forgot to measure how much thread length I have before the nut bottoms out.

Does anyone have a recommendation? I’ve been looking at these but I’m worried they aren’t deep or narrow enough:

https://www.lugnutguys.com/product/factory-mag-chrome-cwa-5005t-16

 

The lack of 12x1.25 mag lug selection is a bummer.

 

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Gorilla has a good selection.  They're often carried in the parts stores.  I think Amazon has them also.  Post up your wheel type, maybe with a picture and somebody will probably know exactly.

http://www.gorilla-auto.com/lug-nuts

Good tech info.

http://www.gorilla-auto.com/gorilla-tech-tips

Edited by Zed Head

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Thanks!

Edit: I went through them and didn’t see anything with a narrow enough shank, but it’s totally possible that I miss-measured the hole diameter.

The wheels are higher up in this thread. Shelby Cal 500s, 14x6.

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 Post a pic of the wheels. Back in the day the aluminum wheels often didn't use tapered lug nuts. The slotted U.S. aluminum wheels that were on my 71 used a straight lug nut that fits into a hole in the wheel.

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73128?  The fit in the bore of the wheel will be very tight.  I've had to massage mine with a round file to get them  back in.  Probably overtightened them.  You need the washer also.

Looks like OReilly also carries a Dorman lug nut.  They show the size as correct for a 240Z.  SAE/metric hybrid.  You could go down and buy a single one just to check.  Pretty sure that's the size.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/tire---wheel-16779/lug-nuts-and-studs-25062/wheel-lug-nut-12670/835b5ec42d53/1973/nissan/240z?prodAttr_10648=M12-1.25&prodAttr_10633=Mag

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Edited by Zed Head

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 Dug out one of my previously mentioned U.S. wheels. The holes measure 5/8" and have no taper at the top, just the indent for the washer. What is the hole size on your Shelby's and is there any taper at the top of the hole? 

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4 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

didn’t see anything with a narrow enough shank, but it’s totally possible that I miss-measured the hole diameter.

When I was trying to find lug nuts for my old aluminum wheels, I had a little trouble getting an accurate measurement number for the hole diameter. Seemed the hole diameter as measured at the front face of the wheels was smaller than the hole diameter at the back side. But the holes were never meant to be tapered, so wtf?

Under magnification, the issue became clear... All the years of lug nut tightening by previous owners had extruded the aluminum at the wheel face a little bit and actually squeezed a metal ridge into the lug hole. So when I measured that hole at the front, I was actually measuring the diameter inside that burr. But the diameter at the back side (with no burr) was the accurate measurement.

So I'll second Zed Head's mention of a round file. On mine, some quick work with a fine round file to remove the burr and my lug choice went up dramatically. Hopefully that's what's going on with yours as it was an easy fix.

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 The Cap'n scores again. I checked for a bur on mine, not feeling one I measured 5/8" on the face side. Well just to make sure I just measured the backside. Sure enough, 13/16". No wonder the lugnuts got more difficult to install after twenty years. 

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9 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

No wonder the lugnuts got more difficult to install after twenty years. 

Haha! Yup. Metal smeared into the hole. I don't remember how much difference I found between front and back on mine, but a sixteenth sure sounds like a lot.

And there's no way there is supposed to be taper in those holes. They were drilled after the casting was done and sized for different applications. Those holes should be the same diameter thru (plus/minus drill wander, etc).

Anyway, hopefully that's what Matthew is dealing with as well.

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10 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

Haha! Yup. Metal smeared into the hole. I don't remember how much difference I found between front and back on mine, but a sixteenth sure sounds like a lot. Those holes should be the same diameter thru (plus/minus drill wander, etc).

Anyway, hopefully that's what Matthew is dealing with as well.

1

 It probably wasn't a full 1/16". Poor light in the basement, old eyes, etc. I do remember the lug nuts having no taper to them at all. Just a bit of a bevel at the tip to get them started into the wheel. I never thought about filing them out. I just kept putting more anti-seize on them.

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I had an incident where I forgot to tighten my lug nuts and several flew off in a short test drive.  I was down to two on one wheel.  I think I've been overtightening ever since.  I have a torque wrench but grew up doing lug nuts by feel.  I need to break out the torque wrench for the aluminum wheels.  I would just give them a light brushing when the nuts got hard to insert.  I was having brake problems so they were on and off frequently.

I just bought a truck though and the spec is 150 foot-lbs for steel wheels.  That would crush the mags.  Pretty sure the aluminum spec is much lower.

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When digging through my garage for things to use as a sanding block on these wheels I found a pry bar that almost fits into the wheel hole and measures 17.42mm diameter. I measured the holes again on two wheels and got a range from 16.2 to 17.23, so I bought some domed mag nuts that have a .68” shank, which is 17.272mm, and I’ll open up the holes with a round file and cylinder hone bit until they fit.

I’m just concerned about throwing of the PCD or otherwise compromising the geometry of the holes..

 

—-

 

Now I just have to figure out how to turn the angled valve stem Costco installed sideways without taking it back, breaking it, etc.

56886367950__1969F510-41BE-48EC-ACF1-49D5FB42211D.thumb.JPG.5932ef3f1d72971315af107c0d3b6508.JPG

It never ends.

 

—-

 

Incidentally, I went with Michelin Defender T+H - 195/70R14 91H tires. Costco had them for $85 each after the promotion they’re running.

 

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3 hours ago, Matthew Abate said:

Now I just have to figure out how to turn the angled valve stem Costco installed sideways without taking it back, breaking it, etc.

Let the air out of the tires.

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20 hours ago, Mark Maras said:

 The Cap'n scores again. I checked for a bur on mine, not feeling one I measured 5/8" on the face side. Well just to make sure I just measured the backside. Sure enough, 13/16". No wonder the lugnuts got more difficult to install after twenty years. 

That's 3/16 ths! :facepalm:

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Ooops. I said 1/16 above!  Yup, that's a lot of extruded material.

I wish I had written my results down somewhere. All I remember is that the sizes didn't make sense until I figured out what was going on.

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 Major Correction. Along with poor light, and old eyes, we can add an old brain. The inside measurement is 11/16". The difference is 1/16". Although  I couldn't feel a ridge there must be about 1/32" of smush in the holes on the face side.

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@Matthew Abate Hopping in the Way Back Machine back to the 70's, I seem to remember that Ansen Sprint wheels and US Indy wheels both used the same style 11/16" (hole size) lug nuts. Try searching those brands to see if they're the same size as your Shelby's. I just tried a Google search using "Ansen Sprint, US Wheel lug nuts". SCORE.  Ebay. You'll see the type of lug nuts that I believe Shelby's use.

Edited by Mark Maras

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