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wheee!

1976 280Z Restoration Project

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Well now that temperatures are below freezing, I have got the furnace tuned up and the shop ready for some paint work.
I will use the small paint booth I set up here to prime and prep all the panels. I may end up doing the finish paint on the interior sides of the panels so they can stay mounted for finish body work and final paint.
I lose sleep over this sequence. My gut tells me that having the panels painted and mounted for final body work is the safest bet. No more welding and dollying etc. Just final finish smoothing and filling. Then I can paint the whole car assembled and blend the paint seams where it meets finished paint on edges etc.
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A little 2K epoxy work tonight. This is a good start! One full mix did a front fender, cowl and centre valance under the rad.

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Hood, hatch, fender, two doors to go!

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Half of two doors now... had to do a little more spraying while I was in the mood.
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Still some repair work with fibreglass filler needed on these doors but nothing outrageous. Mostly pinholes on the bottom trailing edges.

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Ok time to ask the experts...

Does anyone have a good picture of the rubber seals under the fenders and how the fit, mount etc?

Mine are destroyed and I need to reproduce them.

The ones that go on the fender ridge.

 

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And does anyone have an alternate source for these inner fender seals?

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I have replaced the "blade" style OEM seals with a "Bulb" style weatherstrip like the door seals. The bulb has to be on top of the pinch weld rather than on the side like the door seals. I got mine from McMaster Carr. I can find the part number. 1120A122  for 1/16" edge, 7/16 bulb diameter

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3615

The OEM style seems to be about the least effective way to make a seal I can imagine. 

I think I kept a few of the OEM clips that hold the OEM weatherstrip on if you decide to get the reproduction of them. 

Edited by zKars
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That looks like exactly what I should use. The stock system really is quite inefficient and clumsy....

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You're going to laugh but a dollar store pool noodle works great, closed cell foam, a 3/4"deep cut length wise and slip it over the pinch weld, cut it to height if needed and it sure doesn't $6.00 usd per foot.

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True but I think I can get about 3 meters of the good stuff for about $30.

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9 hours ago, wheee! said:

A little more hood work...
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And doors!
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How do you get into the nooks and crannies of specifically the hood?  I'm getting ready to prep/paint one now and want to prevent rust the best I can

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How do you get into the nooks and crannies of specifically the hood?  I'm getting ready to prep/paint one now and want to prevent rust the best I can

I scraped with a small flat scraper as best I could, then pushed a piece of sandpaper around with my finger. Not perfect but okay.

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I will try and sand the primer a bit too to make it look nicer. Best you can do really.

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11 hours ago, ramsesosirus said:

How do you get into the nooks and crannies of specifically the hood?  I'm getting ready to prep/paint one now and want to prevent rust the best I can

Also you can rotate your fan pattern down to a small round dot and turn down the paint volume. If you dont reduce the volume alot you will have sags and runs. Keep a piece of cardboard close by for testing spray patterns and volume. That makes it easier to shoot down inside the holes to get it further inside the structure. Before I did any of that I used Eastwoods internal frame spray cans with the long tubes to help coat the insides of the structure on the hood and many other places on the car.

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16 hours ago, Patcon said:

Also you can rotate your fan pattern down to a small round dot and turn down the paint volume. If you dont reduce the volume alot you will have sags and runs. Keep a piece of cardboard close by for testing spray patterns and volume. That makes it easier to shoot down inside the holes to get it further inside the structure. Before I did any of that I used Eastwoods internal frame spray cans with the long tubes to help coat the insides of the structure on the hood and many other places on the car.

Thanks, I've really only spray painted.  There's a shop in town that will put "real" 99% VOC car paint in a spray can for you, and it ends up looking really good.  Another option might be to sand the loose rust (if any) and use the POR-15 brush on system with a small brush.  I used that stuff on my last car and it actually worked great and stopped the rust from spreading.  I think it's similar to some Eastwood products;  the tubes on the spray can is a great idea as well

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The spray bomb cans are better than regular spray paint, but no where near the same as being able to spray from HVLP guns for consistency and quality. POR will do too, but the under hood area will be highly visible when the hood is open, so I am going for a proper colour finish in that area.

 

EDIT: If your car is black or very dark green, you may be able to get away with more....mine will be too light to hide POR

Edited by wheee!

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1 hour ago, wheee! said:

The spray bomb cans are better than regular spray paint, but no where near the same as being able to spray from HVLP guns for consistency and quality. POR will do too, but the under hood area will be highly visible when the hood is open, so I am going for a proper colour finish in that area.

 

EDIT: If your car is black or very dark green, you may be able to get away with more....mine will be too light to hide POR

It is possible to paint over POR-15, just as an FYI.  It's not supposed to be exposed to UV rays.  

Is your car not going to be green , like in the signature?

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38 minutes ago, ramsesosirus said:

It is possible to paint over POR-15, just as an FYI.  It's not supposed to be exposed to UV rays.  

Is your car not going to be green , like in the signature?

You can paint over POR but there is a process to follow or it doesn't adhere.

And yes, the signature paint is what I have on so far. More to come soon! PPG E2335 British Racing Green

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1 hour ago, wheee! said:

You can paint over POR but there is a process to follow or it doesn't adhere.

And yes, the signature paint is what I have on so far. More to come soon! PPG E2335 British Racing Green

Yes, you're correct about the POR process, have to use special primer etc...  it's more for frames and stuff...

Nice, dark green is my favorite color on the S30s ( I might be a little biased...)

You doing a metallic flake paint, 2 stage or 1?  

I've spray painted 2 junker cars flat black in my life... takes 15 cans to do an S10 truck... and man were my fingers tired... (all of them)...

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It’s a metallic water based paint. Lights up in the sun pretty nice! 2 stage with standard clear coat.

 

Test panel:

 

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Bottom of the car:

 

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52 minutes ago, ramsesosirus said:

Very nice... you going with an air dam, bumpers?  chromed bumpers?  240z bumper?  280 bumpers? What grill?  Sorry, too many pages to read thru them all

BRE style Air Dam, Stainless Steel Harrington bumpers (no rubber strips) stock grill. I know the thread has become long.... but there is some good stuff in there!

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