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[2015] What Did You Do To/with Your Z Today?


zed2

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I've wondered about the difference in torque numbers for poly versus rubber.  When I put mine on I just tightened them enough to barely deform the bushing and slathered them with that silicone looking stuff.  The old rubber was so deteriorated I'll never know any different.  It cuts like it's on a rail and I like that. 

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I changed the bulb sockets for the center stack gauges to wedge sockets and added LED bulbs. I also added some insulation to reduce the amount of air coming through the upper vents when the slider is in the HEAT or DEF positions.

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Got good and fed up with the diff shaking itself loose on the mustache bar. Pulled the mustache bar out, cut a piece of 3/8 plate, welded it to the back of the bar and used a step-bit to hone the hole out to a few thou tighter than the new bolts are round. Threaded some 10.9 bolts through the plate and into the diff.

Proceeded to spin tires, drive tight circles and whip donuts. Diff is securely, never moving again.

Which brings me to my next issue... that diff must be pretty toast. With the car in gear, I can lay on the floor with my foot on the front tire and my head next to the diff, looking at the input/pinion shafts, if I roll the car ahead until it binds, there is a wild clunk and the shaft binds and rotates quite angrily through two positions. Makes a loud ping sound

Time for that STI swap I guess

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Started putting the transmission in around supper time. Some minor fitment issues so far, transmission is shorter than 4 speed 71B, shifter ears are taller and hit tunnel, but fits, old driveshaft is busted, new driveshaft is too long, clutch fork isn't compatible, and such.

Clutch fork is about to be modified, driveshaft is being shortened, just had to grab some more cut off wheels and a mig wire tip.

Hopefully driving tonight, though I'm afraid the distinctively different collar and fork might cause some sort of issue, even once I figure out how to get the slave cylinder to work with it.

Otherwise I'll try the old stuff from try the 4 speed 71B, since I've never understood the difference between the several bearing collars and fork designs... trial and error.

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Hi everyone - this is my first post on this forum, but I've been a heavy reader for the past couple of months. Amazing knowledge shared here!

 

I made good progress over the weekend disassembling my 76 280z in anticipation of a late-June trip to the body shop for some new paint. Wiring harnesses are out, dash and HVAC are out. Most of the hydraulics in the engine bay are out (PO had apparently didn't know the difference between a flare nut wrench and channel locks, so I guess I will learn how to flare and maybe even bend brake lines. 

 

Lots of dull, corroded fasteners and fittings. Thinking of trying my hand at replating them myself while the Z is in the shop, but that leads me to consider buying a vibratory tumbler in order to get everything cleaned up first. 

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Hey pogden, welcome.

Transmission is in. Drilled hole in release bearing fork's concave recession to allow the adjustable shaft of the slave to fit through.

Cut the diff side end of driveshaft off, trimmed 3/4" from shaft and welded back together. Fits snug. Turns out my diff clunk issue was partly a separated u joint in the driveshaft. Will have to see tomorrow how this drives now.

Shifts through all gears on jackstands, speedo and backup lights are working. Here are a couple of photos is the transmission differences.

I a found it strange the 71B 5 speed has the upside down speedo gear, which I was sure was only on the 71C.

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