Jump to content

IGNORED

Rebuilding The Nikki Fuel Pump


motivealloy

Recommended Posts


  • 1 month later...

Darn.  Rebuilt mine and I see now from this I made an error and put the new oil seal in upside down without doing the retainer ring because my fuel pump didn't have the seal in it when I took it apart and it was the original one on the car.  Made in May 1971.  Wonder how it got left off?  Maybe rebuilt before and it was left out?  Had 76,000 miles on it when it failed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Here's a reman from O'Reillys.  It's upside down so I can't see Nikki written on the dome top but I bet it is.  If not you could swap the tops.  :D

 

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/IDF0/M23049.oap?ck=Search_E-1080_-1_-1&keyword=E-1080&doInterchangeSearch=true

 

EDIT: I just ordered one and should have it Wednesday before lunch, I'll put up some pictures.

Edited by siteunseen
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The pin cannot be pressed out.

 

It has two ball bearings swaged into either side. If you press one in on one side, it eventually breaks the housing by cracking it where the pin goes through, because there is a small step in the bore that the ball does not easily slide through to the other side.

 

So yes, you can press the pin out. But the pump won't be useable. Found this out today. Wasn't fun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bummer. If the Nikki pumps used balls pressed into counterbored holes on both sides, that's a tough one...

 

Are the balls hardened? If not, one could drill (and maybe tap) them to extract them. I give it pretty good odds that they ARE hardened, but you never know.

 

Some heat might also help with the removal as the aluminum case would expand more than the steel ball.  Basically it's clear that they never intended those sealing balls to come out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really don't think there's any way of removing them without making some serious dents and marks on the housing. heating is of no help either, because there is a step just beneath each ball. the step is the ID of the pin for a press fit, and the ball is larger than the step. so once it gets to the step, the area on the inside and around the pin just pops/cracks open.

 

 

they are hardened ball bearings, they did not deform whatsoever.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.