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HuD 91gt

1971 Rear Strut Replacement

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Hello all,

I attempted the rear strut replacement this afternoon on my 1971 240z. After failing, and doing a search doing it the way the manual says to do it is a joke.

Then there is the Atlantic Z way of doing it (Disconnect the opposite side of the transverse link), which I was going to attempt to do before I saw this little video.

Fast forward to 1:50 to see what I am talking about.

From what I can tell, I would only have to disconnect brake lines, disconnect driveshafts at the hub, the three bolts on the top of the strut and it should all drop down, and swing out? Is this correct?

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How did you "fail"? Might give a clue for some good advice.

Search "Arne" and strut replacement and you might find a thread on the 240Z. I think that it was Arne who wrote something up. Yes, you should be able to just swing out the strut and get the job done. It's actually harder for the 280Z's because the strut is longer.

Also, yes, the FSM procedure doesn't really work. Nissan didn't know that their spindle pins would be almost impossible to remove.

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From what I can tell, I would only have to disconnect brake lines, disconnect driveshafts at the hub, the three bolts on the top of the strut and it should all drop down, and swing out? Is this correct?

More or less - I loosen the nuts on the ends of the spindle pins as well - makes the strut assembly easier to drop down. I also loosen the top nut on the strut rod a bit - while it is still secured in the car. Also always use a good penetrating oil on every nut before you start..

The Factory procedure - really didn't take into account 40+ year old spindle pins.

FWIW,

Carl B.

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The Spindle Pins were my issue. Although, they do move side to side with a light tapping of a mallet, I can't seem to get the bolt (Sorry I forget the name) which is underneath, in the centre of said transverse link pin to budge. The manual doesn't explain it well (Does it get removed from the top? Tapered fit?), and I don't want to start hammering (The nut is removed).

I'll give this way a go, it seems pretty simple. Also Carl, thanks for the advice on loosening the top nut. Without an impact wrench, I would have been stuck without you reminding me. I did that on my last strut removal 10 years ago. Apparently I didn't learn my lesson.

Edited by HuD 91gt

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I did my struts on my 71' and just took the entire lower control arm and strut off as an assembly and over to the bench. Pop off the spring perch and swap strut cartridge. Took maybe two hours or a bit more total to do both sides. Don't forget the new bump stop or you just might find yourself changing struts again soon if they bottom out and destroy the internal valving.

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This is what I did, based upon advice from an experienced friend. It is similar to what you described.

Remove the wheel.

Disconnect the brake line.

Disconnect the half shaft from the wheel.

Disconnect the sway bar if present.

Remove the three nuts at the insulator.

The assembly dropped down nicely.

When reassembling, use a small jack to lift the assembly up. Then attach in reverse of disassembly.

I had to do this a couple of times when replacing the springs and struts. Since I had to cut the springs to the desired height (Chevette springs), I got good at it. The third time took me only 2 hours to disassemble, cut, and reassemble both sides.

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I can't seem to get the bolt (Sorry I forget the name) which is underneath, in the centre of said transverse link pin to budge. The manual doesn't explain it well (Does it get removed from the top? Tapered fit?), and I don't want to start hammering (The nut is removed).

It is a tapered pin,or lock bolt, that fits in a notch in the spindle pin to keep it from spinning and moving back and forth. You can try threading the nut back partially, then tapping on the nut to removed the pin. Use the nut to save the threads. You might find though that you still can't remove the spindle pin, the edges of the notch may have deformed and it will bind on its way out. It would save some brake line time if you can do it that way.

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Speaking of Brake Lines and the old flair nuts on them. . . .It is time to recommend getting a set of IRWIN Vice Grips, which have a great head for holding Flair Nuts without rounding them off. These come in different lengths - you need the smaller sizes for brake line work.

Irwin Vise-Grip Locking Wrench — 7in., Model# 04 | Locking Pliers| Northern Tool + Equipment

FWIW,

Carl B.

Edited by Carl Beck

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Is there any reason that I should be hanging onto the original strut inserts after I upgraded to tokiko's? They're 42 years old & I didn't think they could be rebuilt. Should I keep them or send them off for scrap?

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Here's a pic of the locking pin for the spindle. Apply a penetrating product around it, let it sit overnight. Loosen the nut a bit and give it a few light taps - not heavy enough to deform the threads. It should pop out. if you are only replacing shocks, no need to break down the spindle.

post-22303-14150829539848_thumb.jpg

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Spent 4 hours today, and managed to get one replaced, and the other down to the gland nut on the strut insert. These things are on there. Time to head to the tool store to pickup the largest pipe wrench a man can by. I applied heat and penetrating oil over and over. Not budging. The first one took 30 minutes to loosen. I spent over an hour on the second and nothing.

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Carl said: Irwin Vise-Grip Locking Wrench — 7in., Model# 04 | Locking Pliers| Northern Tool + Equipment

That's in ingenious tool my friend! Gotta get one of those ASAP!

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Spent 4 hours today, and managed to get one replaced, and the other down to the gland nut on the strut insert. These things are on there. Time to head to the tool store to pickup the largest pipe wrench a man can by. I applied heat and penetrating oil over and over. Not budging. The first one took 30 minutes to loosen. I spent over an hour on the second and nothing.

Before I did my rear struts, I kept applying brake fluid via an oil squirt can around the gland nuts. When I went to take off the gland nuts, they came off fairly easily.

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IMHO - anyone working on these old cars - should have a supply of Kroil Penetrating Oil in their garage. While ATF/Acetone may indeed work a bit better - I don't like the thought of using Acetone on anything. Kano Lab's Kroil is without question the best available Penetrating Oil that you can buy. That and it actually smells pleasant, while it won't destroy any painted surfaces.

Yes, it is a bit expensive when you have to pay shipping costs - Nonetheless if you use it, you'll not likely ever go back to anything else. It works wonders - far better than the stuff you buy at the AutoParts Stores. Kroil - Aero-Kroil is the aerosol can.

Try it "Risk Free" - with their current Buy One of anything - Get One Free.

Two Can's will last the average person a year to two.

https://www.kanolabs.com/orders/order_kroil.shtml

FWIW,

Carl B.

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Carl said: Irwin Vise-Grip Locking Wrench — 7in., Model# 04 | Locking Pliers| Northern Tool + Equipment

That's in ingenious tool my friend! Gotta get one of those ASAP!

I think everyone knows how hard - if not impossible - it is to get the Air Injection Tubes out of the exhaust manifold - without cutting them off etc. I soaked the flair nuts down with Kroil - for a couple days - then applied some heat - locked the Irwin Vise-Grips on the flair nuts and smacked it with a heavy brass hammer - broke every one of them lose - with out rounding them off in the process.

Someone else recommended them here on the forum a few years ago - so thanks to them!

Carl B.

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I wish I had this advise last week. I've since sounded off practically every brake line in the system. Now in for a much larger job then expected.

But luck has it, an 18" pipe wrench finished the job today after a night soaked in my concoction of chemicals. Fronts are next.

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Be sure to fill the holes in the exhaust manifold where the pipes came through otherwise you will have a nice set of 6 whistles. This often happens if only the big threaded holes on the outside are plugged.

We just solved this problem on a car by drilling and tapping the narrower hole where the pipe fit. We then ran long ss bolts through from the outside and ground the ends flush where they protruded inside. If you tap for a large enough bolt, the head will cover the big threaded hole on the outside and the manifold will look mighty purdy.

Edited by Blue

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Just wanted to say thanks to Carl B. for the tip on the great Kano Kroil 2 for 1 offer. A terrific deal.

It is $22 per can at my local nuts & bolts place, and I think the Kano deal is for the larger size can.

I order it last night

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One last questions guys, as I think I screwed up.

On purchasing my 240z, I researched and ordered boxes of parts. There were two poly spacer looking things sitting in said boxes that I had no idea what they were. Well after doing my rear strut replacement, I took a LOL at my online order, and it looks like they are rear upper struts spacers.

Where were these things supposed to go? I simply took out the old strut, replaced with the new struts. There was a ton of broken down rubber in the assembly which I assumed was from the missing bump stop (which I also replaced).

I searched all my manuals and none of them lost this rear upper strut spacer. Any help?

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From the description, I unfortunately believe they are supposed to go the same place the upper bearings go in the front. You don't need bearings in the rear, so they use fixed hard plastic spacers instead. If they're about the same diameter and thickness as a front upper bearing then that's what they are.

Did you put yours together without any spacers at all between the upper spring perch and the top mount. If so, you're going to have to pull them back apart. :ermm:

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Looks like I completely missed the part.

70-78-rear-suspension.jpg

When I disassembled, the seat and the insulator come out as one piece, and looked to be in decent shape (I assumed they were one piece). The question is whether or not I should go it over again.

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It is likely that the original spacers are still there. I've only seen a few of them that were broken or falling out on disassembly. Had to pry most of the old one's out - before replacing them.

FWIW,

Carl B.

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