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sl0w240

My 240z restoration

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First of all, I am very new to this forum haha. There has been a late-build 1969 240z in my family ever since my grandpa bought it brand new in 1969. It sat for 30 years, mostly outside in southern California. It only has 83,xxx miles on it! My family doesn't want to get rid of the car, however nobody, except for me, is interested in restoring it or fixing it up. As for me, I am 16 years old and a HUGE car enthusiast. Im the only one in the family who wants the 240 to fix up. My aunt and uncle recently brought the car to my house in Palm Springs.

This is how the car looked when it arrived:

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My plan is to restore the car, and do some mods to it. Me being 16, I am a huge fan of the JDM car scene, and stanced cars. However that is NOT my intention for this car. I have too much respect for the 240z to ruin it like that.

The car has rust. A LOT, mostly by the rear decklid. I assume that when it would rain, water would collect up at the bottom and sit. There are some pics of it above. There is also rust on the bumpers. I already removed the rear bumper to examine it closer. The exhaust is very rusted too.

I know for a fact that the wheels are not original, I think they might be dealer installed. The tires are some brand I've never herd of, and they're very cracked from sitting.

The motor (just like all other l24's) is bulletproof and in good condition. The 4 speed tranny shifts alright, and pops out of 3rd gear. Apparently it did that ever since they bought it xD. I drive it around my community every once in a while. The fuel in it is very old and probably bad. I'm also gonna do an oil change soon. I am not sure about the condition of the clutch. The most recent thing I've done is replace the battery.

The interior is in ok condition. It has no a/c, which is a b*** in the desert. The vinyl passenger seat has only one tear in it and the driver seat is a lot worse. The carpet in the back needs to be replaced. Only one speaker works and sounds terrible, as expexted haha. The tach and speedo both don't work, and I'm not sure whats wrong, or how to replace them.

Thank you guys for reading and I would love any advice! I will be posting updates on the car.:D

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First and foremost, welcome to the club! Second, congrats on being the proud owner and caretaker of a somewhat rare Z car. Best of all, you know its history, have access to the original owner, and got it for the best price, FREE. It appears to be 97% complete with only a few small odds and ends missing but obtainable. Just as it sits the car is pretty valuable so please keep that in mind wherever you store it and drive it. It is definitely YOUR car so do what you want but I, along with many other members will be glad to hear you want to keep it relatively stock. You are correct on the rust and how it got there. Luckily there are repair panels available and you will no doubt learn a lot as you go down the path of restoration of the car. I would encourage you to read over as many build threads as possible as a lot can be learned from others who have been down the same road. Keep us posted and keep the pictures come too!

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Thank you for the advice! I will be sure to read up on the repair threads. Its great to have a project car to learn on! Also, this won't be my daily driver, I will probably get something cheap and good on gas.

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Welcome to the group! Glad to see another early Z in Palm Springs, besides mine. From the pictures, it looks like just about everything needing attention is fixable or replaceable. The ash tray that covers the fuse box will be a little pricey, but they show up on ebay from time to time.

If you need the name of a good local mechanic for mechanical and electrical issues, let me know and I'll give you the name of the place that works on mine. He also installed the A/C on my '71, in case you decide you need it for the 108 degree weather.

Dennis

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I would find a garage so you could remove the old gas and install a new fuel filter. I would also inspect the frame rails. Driving the Z around on old tires is not a good idea, because you could have a blowout and damage a quarter panel. I would drain the transmission fluid and rear differential.

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+1 on Hardway's welcome. You've already earned an "Exceeds Expectations" rating by including some great pictures on your first post. You'll get a couple of extra "attaboys" for sharing the VIN and build date. Your car has so very many things RIGHT with it that it should be easy to address the aging items. Replacement sill plates for the hatch are available. The very early cars are a treasure to all of us so you will have a bunch of voyeurs following your every move. Stay the course on a conservative approach and you'll fall in love with the results. Everyone here know all the tricks and where to find stuff - all you have to do is ask.

Jim

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@psdenno Im glad to hear that there's another Z owner in Palm Springs! I will definitely let you know when its time to get the name of that mechanic. I actually have the ash tray, and it is back in the car.

Edited by sl0w240

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@hunter260z Im for sure gonna remove the old gas before I drive it again. Would it be a good idea to pull the fuel tank and clean it? Im gonna get some cheap tires for the time being while the car sits.

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@jfa.series1 Thank you very much for the advice! Where do i find the build date at?

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Glad you have the ash tray. That saves you a few hundred dollars. As others have mentioned, if the car has been sitting for years, change the brake fluid, Trans fluid, oil, get rid of the old gas. My Z had been sitting for about 15 years in storage and I changed all the fluids, plugs, plug wires, fuel lines, brake calipers, fan belts, air & gas filters, and gave it a tune up. Lots of crud in the gas tank. Good luck with the project, and as you start pouring money into it, remember that the car was free. :)

Dennis

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@jfa.series1 Thank you very much for the advice! Where do i find the build date at?

Check out the plate on the driver's side door pillar above the latch. It will have your VIN and date. You'll find a similar looking plate in the engine bay, right side shock tower - that one will have your VIN and engine block #. The block # on the engine is located just below the head about cyl. #5 right side.

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Update:

I checked out the VIN plate by the driver door and discovered that the build date was june, 1970. Not 1969. The VIN# is HLS30-06370

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Good for you! Down load the service manual from CZCC, study this site. 99.99% of questions can be found in these threads or members will help you with problems Take your time to do it right. Your Z has been in your family from day one. It's a treasure that you can't replace and you could enjoy your entire life.

Have Fun, John

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Thank you! I just downloaded all of the service manuals. The weather is so hot out here I'm not gonna start any work until it cools down. There is no way I could let myself sell this car haha.

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Joe,

Welcome to the forum! I'm also glad that you are restoring this car with originality in mind. You can get a replacement rear deck panel from MSA that will have to be welded in: Motorsport! Rear Panel Upper Top Repair Insert, 70-78* 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts You have a good starting point and it looks like there is minimal rust compared to a Midwest car. Congratulations!

Robert S.

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Wow. With 83 thousand miles it's still a baby.

Only disagree with one thing, cheap tires are no good where it gets to 115F in the shade, especially on the freeway, since you tend to go a little faster in a Z.

The radio probably has only one speaker, on the left rear side. I replaced mine with a $25 speaker from pep boys and it's a lot better, still crummy though.

For cheap "AC" get a cool cushion at NAPA and a 40 ounce cold drink, park in shade if possible.

Best "MOD" for the money, a 2 1/4" exhaust pipe and turbo muffler, with the stock (or copy) Y-pipe, preferably at a local independent muffler shop.

What they said about changing the hoses etc.

Edited by Stanley

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A few other things to keep in mind and this goes for owning and driving any vintage car. Keep a small tool kit, jumper cables, and a good fire extinguisher in the car at all times. Things can happen and they do. Better to have it and not need it than the other way around.

Since you want to drive the car I echo what everyone else has suggested. Do a complete bumper to bumper fluid change, pull the gas tank, clean it it out, inspect and replace all rubber lines for all components, and don't get in a hurry. You will have to order parts, wait on parts, things won't go as planned etc. At the end of the day you want the car to be safe and not present a danger to you or others around you. Getting the basics taken care of will be a great education and provide a solid foundation for your restoration plans moving forward.

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Awesome! Wow, you're the only person in the family interested in restoring this car... Lucky you! :)

A word about bad gas: Don't just "not drive" the car on the old gas. I would recommend not even running the engine on it in the driveway. Old gas can have lots of varnish, which can gum up your valves. The problem is when a hot, gummy valve train cools down, and the varnish solidifies. Then your valves are stuck, and when you crank an engine like that, it will literally fall apart and require a rebuild -- valve collisions with piston tops, rockers popping loose, and all sorts of chaos. Please don't ask me how I know...

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A few other things to keep in mind and this goes for owning and driving any vintage car. Keep a small tool kit, jumper cables, and a good fire extinguisher in the car at all times. Things can happen and they do. Better to have it and not need it than the other way around.

Since you want to drive the car I echo what everyone else has suggested. Do a complete bumper to bumper fluid change, pull the gas tank, clean it it out, inspect and replace all rubber lines for all components, and don't get in a hurry. You will have to order parts, wait on parts, things won't go as planned etc. At the end of the day you want the car to be safe and not present a danger to you or others around you. Getting the basics taken care of will be a great education and provide a solid foundation for your restoration plans moving forward.

I've already figured that this is a project that's gonna take a long time before its done, so its worth it just to be patient. Just like any other restoration. I'm fully prepared for the Z to sit for a while haha. I just recently bought a Kobalt toolkit w/ all the metric and standard sockets, and combination wrenches. That's probably all I need for right now.

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What would be the best way to get rid of the rest of the bad fuel? The tank is right on empty.

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