Looking to buy my 1st (to me) 240z.

[SERE Nate 0]

Long story short, my father had a 72 240z that we were going to fix as a father son project. Unfortunately he passed before it could become a reality and its time to find a 240z of my own to build with my sons.

I have a starting budget of around $4k.

I live in Spokane Wa and am willing to travel 500 miles or so for the right vehicle.

I have found a 72 240z that is a few hours away from me. The owner know nothing about the car. I have talked him down to $1500 for it and might be able to get if for a little less. He says that there is no visible rust and the the motor ran when he got it, but wouldn't hold a charge. Would run for a few hours on a full battery charge, then would stop running. Not it won't start and he thinks its a fuel pump.

He thinks that it has the 2.8 and not the 2.4.

Here are the pics that I have of it. Does this look like a good cat to start with?

1972 Datsun 240z

[SERE Nate 0]

needs a full interior

[SERE Nate 0]

Any way to tell what engine this is?

[SERE Nate 0]

Here are some pics of Dads Z. It sat under a car cover for 5 years and rotted from the ground up. Hopefully will be able to do a fitting tribute.

[cbuczesk 155]

Look at the flat spot on the block between the #5 and #6 plugs for a stamping that says L24, L26 or L28. That will tell you the size of the block. The head ID is cast in the head by the #1 plug. Look for E31, E88, N42, etc.

From what I can see the car looks good for $1500. I'd like to see some pictures of the front shock towers and front wheel wells since those are common rust areas.

Chuck

[240260280z 346]

Nice aluminum rad too...looks like a nice car.

[SteveJ 1,193]

Flat-top carburetors - I'm thinking it's a 73.

[rossiz 278]

the panel gap at the rf fender/passenger door looks pretty wonky... if they took fenders off, were they doing structural repairs and/or body work?

biggest worries are hidden structural rust. just about anything can be fixed/restored (there are some really great threads that have come up recently with incredible restorations and a lot of d.i.y. work) but it does come down to how much time you want to spend, and the old "pay me now or later" adage. if you want it to be a project where the process is the important part and the end product isn't tied to a timeline, then no worries.

my past experience has steered me to always spend a little more up front to get a better starting point - but that's because i have neither the skills nor budget to do a lot of body work...

[Mark Maras 1,105]

Several things to consider; RUST The #1 problem with Zs. Take an ice pick & poke any blisters(paint or rust)-Fender wells, body below the doors, frame rails, floor pan, spare tire well, seat supports, cowel in front of the windshield, pull the battery, this a notorious place for rust. VOE I scanned the project 260 that I bought last fall fairly well for rust, or so I thought, Things I missed; Seat support, Hole in the rear of the right fender well. Behind & below the battery. OK I can deal with it, then I open up the right frame rail from the inside.I haven't seen that much rust since I left the ship repair yards. My 6 month project no longer has a definitive on the road date. OK, Engine,a working starter & a battery will allow you to do a compression check. The dash looks good, could mean a car that has been under cover much of it's life. Enjoy the project.

[psdenno 670]

The dash looks good, could mean a car that has been under cover much of it's life. Enjoy the project.

In the picture through the driver's door, the dash appears to have numerous cracks on top. For whatever reason, no pictures of the left side of the car.

Some things to consider:

What's your restoration budget?

How much of the work can you do yourself?

Do you have access to a parts car, local Pick-A-Part, or wrecking yard that has Zs?

A quick inventory indicates you'll need:

New bumpers

Bumper mounts

Outside marker lights

Windshield chrome trim

Steering wheel

New center radio/heat control panel

Radio

Seat covers

Door panels

Assorted door pieces, window cranks, lock knobs, inside release trim

Carpet

Possibly a new center console

Inner & outer shift boots

Outside body emblems

And, all the things you discover needing fixing and replacement along the way

Just those items could be a few thousand dollars depending on how sourced.

Depending on how big a project you're willing to take on, you may want to keep looking. Let us know what you do.

Dennis

Edited June 4, 2014 by psdenno

[SERE Nate 0]

I can throw $1-2k per month at this if I need to. I would like to get it as a solid runner with nice stance, fenders, cowl, spoiler, rims & tires, and interior 1st. Then worry about paint, and over the winter have the powertrain beefed up to either a L28ET, SBC, or the SR26. I would like to end around 300 hp.

I am thinking $1500 for the car. $3-4k for astetics and suspension, $1k for the paint and body, and then $5k for the powertrain. If I can create a nice clean reliable driver with 300 hp for under $12k I would be very happy.

I do not have a garage at this time and will be needing to rent a spot for it. I need to be able to drive it to my in-laws garage for day long projects, but I cant store it there.

I do not have room for a parts car and I an not sure what the availability of used parts are here in Spokane Wa.

Here are a couple of pics of cars that I am trying to get mine to look like eventually.

Is my budget at all realistic????

[240260280z 346]

1976 Green Datsun 280z

[240260280z 346]

I saw this one when in Wa. Nice owner. Lots of potential 1978 datsun 280z flared Rust free

[240260280z 346]

rat rod again datsun 280z

[SERE Nate 0]

Thanks for the links but I am really only interested in a 240 for this build as that is what my dads was.

I have scoured CL in the PNW and have not really found anything else that looks like a good deal. This one has some potential too....

1972 Datsun 240z

[SERE Nate 0]

Although I really do like the flared 280 that is rust free.

[SERE Nate 0]

OK so I have talked to the owner of the rust free 280z with the flares, rims, spoiler, air dam, etc. I am close to pulling the trigger on this one. 1978 datsun 280z flared Rust free

Would $5k be a good deal on this car? I just don't know that much about the value on the 280z vs 240z.

Help!

[Powderkeg 0]

Nate,

I have a California Orange 76 280Z with early 240 SU's. It's mostly stock and runs.

email me at: daveruiz_2000@yahoo.com

[bartsscooterservice 167]

OK so I have talked to the owner of the rust free 280z with the flares, rims, spoiler, air dam, etc. I am close to pulling the trigger on this one. 1978 datsun 280z flared Rust free

Would $5k be a good deal on this car? I just don't know that much about the value on the 280z vs 240z.

Help!

If your going to mod it anyhow, doesn't really matter then. Take the car with the less rust.. a " solid " body is half the work already.

[tlorber 6]

I'm not saying the car is good or bad, but you gotta love the description "could use a wax tho" when it has multiple colors + primer on it.

[SERE Nate 0]

I thought the same thing but the Grey is actually silver paint and not primer.

[HermanM 1]

I am thinking $1500 for the car. $3-4k for astetics and suspension, $1k for the paint and body, and then $5k for the powertrain. If I can create a nice clean reliable driver with 300 hp for under $12k I would be very happy.

If you are thinking only $1000 for body and paint, are you doing it all yourself? Because the cost of that at a shop will take a major hit in your budget, way more then just $1000