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Engine removal help 1970 240z Melbourne, Florida

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Getting ready to help a buddy remove his 1970 240z l24 all original engine.

Anybody in Melbourne,Florida area for help or any pointers,tips,tools type of beer ;) to make our lives easier since its first time pulling a motor. Well for me I pulled a 77 trans am motor in high school about 30 years ago but my brain cells don't work like they used to. LOL

We are going to tackle it this weekend for Eiji to rebuild for him.

Thanks, Joe

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Do some math before you start. Make sure you have enough room to move the engine hoist forward or the car backward once you get it lifted. Don't forget the that car will rise to the top of its suspension travel with the weight of the engine removed so if you don't get the engine high enough, you'll be stuck. Get a load-leveler if you can, it will help you keep the tail of the transmission low to get it out of the engine bay, then raise it back up to get it over the radiator mount. Consider dropping the transmission from below first, if you feel uncomfortable handling the bulk and weight of the two combined. Double check your lift points, the one in the back uses an exhaust mounting stud, which may not be as strong as it was. Don't forget to disconnect all wires, and the speedometer cable. Don't try to squeeze it out without removing the radiator. One small mistake and your down $150.

Basically, play out the whole operation in your head or on paper, before you begin. It sucks to get half-way done and realize you need to reset the motor or transmission or car because you ran out of room.

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Depending on the hoist you are using, the reach might be too short. Before you pull the engine, roll the hoist into position and make sure that the lifting eye is at least rearward as far as the #5 cylinder. If it's close, you can pull the front bumper to gain a few inches. If it's more than a few inches short, you will struggle to get the engine back in and lined up on the mounts. For this reason, I avoid fold-up hoists and bought a fixed leg model. They have much longer booms.

As for the pull itself, pull the engine and trans as a unit. Be sure to tape a plastic bag over the trans output so the oil doesn't drip on your floor. Also, tape a WD40 lid over your hood prop clip. If you don't, you will likely drag the oil pan over the clip and break it off. The lid will help protect it and give you a warning if you do catch it with the pan. Pulling the engine is a breeze as long as you disconnect everything and get the car in the proper position. It helps to put the front tires on 2x10's and put the rear up on jack stands. It makes the angle less severe.

Here is mine going in.

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Thanks for all the great tips you guys. Starting to sound more difficult. I think the hoist is a fold up one, hopefully not. I hope Blue can come up that would be awesome! PM sent.

I'm all ears for anymore advice :nervous:

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Start spraying all the bolts early with the tried & true 50/50 acetone & tranny fluid especially rusted exhaust bolts & use heat too, if necesary. If you've wrestled an engine out of a Trans Am you're well qualified to pull this one They are really pretty easy. Lot's of room in the engine bay. Mark in Portland

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One tip I have seen. Jack up the back end and put on stands. The engine and trans won't have to be at too much of wan angle to get out together.

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Pencil mark around the hood hinges before you remove it. Helps get it even on both sides when you re-install it. And take some photos before you start, engine mounts are different for 1 side for example. A roll of painters tape and a Sharpie is a good way to tag everything. Zip-Loc bags for all the bolts too. Getting it out's easy, putting it back after spending the $$$ and time is nerve racking.

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Checklist

Buying 3/4 ton load leveler.

jacking up back end

Will the acetone tranny fluid mix work better than deep creep seafoam?

Pencil mark hood hinges, taking photos, ziplock baggies, painters tape, labatt blue how many?

following what Jeff G and Zed Head said :geek:

Blue to the rescue :beer: see you Sunday

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Pencil mark around the hood hinges before you remove it. Helps get it even on both sides when you re-install it.[ATTACH=CONFIG]70472[/ATTACH]

siteunseen, wouldn't it be easier to just unbolt the hood from the hinges, two bolts on each side? Then, no hinge adjustment required.

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siteunseen, wouldn't it be easier to just unbolt the hood from the hinges, two bolts on each side? Then, no hinge adjustment required.

That's why I used the word "it", not "them". Sorry for not be more specific.

Edited by siteunseen

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Like siteunseen said, you need to mark the hinges because the hood has lots of adjustment room at those bolts.

I have removed my hood so many times that I have the system down pat to remove it alone without damaging the paint. I pull the two bolts on one side and slide a small phillips screwdriver through one of the holes with the handle on the radiator side of the hole. I then go around the other side and pull the other two bolts most of the way out while holding the hood still. I still have a strong hold on the hood while I stand directly in front of the car and finish removing the two bolts. At that point, I can slide the hood sideways off the screwdriver blade and remove the hood from the car. Be sure to have a safe place ready to stand it with towels or foam rubber padding to keep the paint safe. Installation is the opposite of removal.

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My apologies, you are quite right. Its been a long time since I took the hood off, and there are adjustment slots on the hood mounting brackets

I had forgotten about.

My technique for hood removal as I remember is:

1. Cover engine bay and fenders with some heavy duty padding.

2. Loosen all four bolts holding hood onto hinges.

3. Remove the forward two bolts while holding the hood open.

4. Then, allow hood to rotate on the aft two bolts and rest hood on padding

5. Remove aft two bolts, then lift hood and place on pads for storage.

This way it is a one-man-job.

Dan

Dan

Like siteunseen said, you need to mark the hinges because the hood has lots of adjustment room at those bolts.

I have removed my hood so many times that I have the system down pat to remove it alone without damaging the paint. I pull the two bolts on one side and slide a small phillips screwdriver through one of the holes with the handle on the radiator side of the hole. I then go around the other side and pull the other two bolts most of the way out while holding the hood still. I still have a strong hold on the hood while I stand directly in front of the car and finish removing the two bolts. At that point, I can slide the hood sideways off the screwdriver blade and remove the hood from the car. Be sure to have a safe place ready to stand it with towels or foam rubber padding to keep the paint safe. Installation is the opposite of removal.

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Thanks for all the hood tips! We are trying to setup a live cam but having trouble with port forwarding on this router maybe doing it wrong. Will post a link here If we can get it up today. check back later

Im sure when Blue gets here today he can set it up for us. So far last night, just disconnected a few things like wires, fuel hoses,alternator, linkage and removed su's. Have rusted bolts sitting in evaporust.

Today we will be draining tranny and engine oil, removing exhaust that is super rusted looking,removing radiator then possibly taking out engine if all goes well.

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Looking good. Your hoist boom will be nice and long. No need to remove the bumper with that hoist.

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I want to thank Blue for the help today. He was very helpful. We didn't have any issues whatsoever thanks to him. We also took out the gas tank. It was a great day even though it rained like crazy with tornado warnings.

Thanks for all the great tips posted here too.

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It was nice to meet Joe and Matt. They are very hospitable and keen Z guys. It was a lot of fun and I look forward to seeing the Z when it is restored.

Joe forgot to mention a few other things besides the Tornado warning. We tried to rescue Mothra but we were too late. We also witnessed the upside down superman flying cat and Cropella the rescue girl.

That 70 has a great body. The rust repairs are all easy to address. It will restore nicely.

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One thing I forgot (but did yesterday) and it would be good to add to this thread [The shakedown test]:

When the chains are on the motor and the crane has just taken the load, lift the motor ~ 1cm up off the engine mount then shake the hell out of the motor and crane. If anything will let go, it would be best to happen with only 1cm to drop.

Also, remove the centre transmission to cross member bolt and loosen the two side bolts. Before removing the two side bolts, do the shakedown test, make sure the load is biased forward (so the transmission does not drop) then remove the further then near bolt.

NOTE: The leveller has a lot of slop and when the centre of gravity moves from one side to the other, the leveller actually snaps quickly as the CG moves through center. Watch out for this as it can be a surprise.

Also,as part of the preparation, have the castors on the crane turned with no load so that the crane can be pulled out w/o the wheels binding.

The above lift was done with an 8' ceiling and ~ 5' of clearance in front of the car. Use short chains and the crane fully extended.

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I've got that same leveler and it scared the crap out of me when it started snapping like that. I ground the paint off the bottom edge and greased that roller that contacts that same edge. Good to hear all went well. No blue fingernails I hope.

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Just black with dirt...the way they should be.

Don't clean those nails yet Philip. We got more work for you down here in Boca. :D Tuning time!

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