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1972 Float Adjustment ...

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Also tell him that this same airtex 8012sx elextric pump used to push 4.2 psi in the past and that i did not had any stumbling or coughing even at cold starts.

Edited by jalexquijano

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@jalexquijano Keep an eye on the post dates. Some of the ones you're responding to are inactive now. If you want to flag someone you need the @ symbol before the person's name. Click on the person you want to flag from the pop up list and it's done.

 I think you're right. It's time for a new set of plugs. This may sound a bit random but humor me. Have you ever tried to start the engine without the choke when the engine is cold? When you put the new plugs in, try starting it with no choke. If it doesn't start in the normal length of time, give it 1/4 choke and try again. No Start? Go to 1/2 choke, etc. I want you to cold start the engine with the least amount of fuel (choke) as possible. When it does start, baby the throttle but keep it running at a busy idle. You may need to blip the throttle now and then when the idle starts to drop. Warm it up enough to drive it. Hit the road and let us know how it acted. The more detail the better, starting with how much choke was needed to start it.

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well it does start but it takes a lot of gas pedal to start. Anyway i cleaned all the plugs with a brass brush before cranking it and drove it slowly with the choke on for 10 minutes. Aceleration is still rough. It misfires a lot and now even with both idle screws at 3,70 turns clockwise whenever you accelerate you can hear the car backfire through the carbs. Major disapointment. I measured the fuel pressure and its still at 3 psi. 

Once i returned home, i sprayed carb cleaner to the carbs and intake manifold and did not notice any vacuum leaks. There is something not clear here.

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24 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

How much will you gap them? .31 or .35 or is this irrelevant?

What was the gap on the currently installed plugs?

Dennis

 

 

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13 minutes ago, Jarvo2 said:

Should he really even need to use the cold start (choke) in Panama?? I live in Chicago and never need it even in winter


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

I have a commercial mower that needs choke every time I start it. If I raise up too high off the seat and the kill switch shuts it down while it's hot as can be it still has to choked. I don't understand why, I just know that's what it takes to start it. Maybe the mechanical fuel pump needs the extra pull?

My 240 will crank without choke though but it lives in a garage that never too cold. I use the choke regardless just to get the oil pressure up faster. When the oil pressure gets 3/4 gauge I push the choke off. By the time I get the PITA seatbelt fastened it's good to go.

Maybe Jalex's hot rod motor needs the extra fuel? Way more questions than answers in this thread. LOL

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1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

Way more questions than answers in this thread. LOL

Can I hear an Amen, Brothers & Sisters?

Dennis

  • Haha 1

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7 hours ago, Lumens said:

Good grief. I thought this carb issue was solved already.

Anyway, if I remember, you were running a Pertronix ignition setup.

Use their gap. not stock gap.

Now I see you are talking about your magnetic pick up gap.

I am talking about spark plug gap as recommended by that Company.

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When I'm wrong it's way wrong, nobody can say I'm a half arse. LOL

My mower has a vacuum fuel pump! That's why I have to use the choke every time. I never thought of that since the first one I bought in '06. Stupid stupid stupid. I'm out of here, it's past my bedtime.

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15 minutes ago, Lumens said:

Now I see you are talking about your magnetic pick up gap.

I am talking about spark plug gap as recommended by that Company.

All plugs came out like this due to  driving the car with full choke on to avoid misfire

20180410_200131.jpg

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 Of course it looks that way. With the choke on the fuel mixture is mega-rich. The reason I want you to put in new plugs and start it with NO CHOKE is I suspect that you're using too much choke and fouling the plugs before you ever get on the road. Yes the engine will lack power while it's warming up. Just baby the throttle and keep it running (with no choke) until it's warmed up, then take it for a drive. 

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This is really weird. I swapped all the 6 spark plugs with a brand new ngk bp6es set and sprayed and cleaned the distributor cap, rotor and inner with deoxit d5. Viola! No more sputtering and coughing during the spin. No more rough accelaration. Just perfect. What could have been the cause???

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