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mmagnus

Off To The Body Shop

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Well, finally after 1 year of waiting for the body shop of my choice to fit me in, he finally called me. Which is just as well because it took me about that long to strip all of the components off the car.Last week it was towed to one shop that does all of the sand blasting. See attached photo's. Now its going to be at the custom paint shop for about three months. I was really glad to see there was no bondo on the car and the rust was minimal that needed repair. The only real surprise was that one of the headlight buckets was fiberglass. No big deal. Overall the body is in really good shape for being 32 years old. What you see below is the car as bare metal. No primer yet. There are more photos of the work under my galleries. Couldnt figure out how to post more than one attachement here

Mark

post-1383-14150792395065_thumb.jpg

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mmagnus,

If your car was made in 1970 then BOTH of the headlamp buckets ( "Sugar Scoops" ) should be made of plastic.

The metal one was probably put on later?

Alan T.

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Color is one of those things that is really bothering me.

I see so many Z's that look good in all different colors. My main thoght on color is keep the car looking vintage. I am not the type of person that would paint a 30 year old sports car some pearl paint from Acura or some other late model car that wouldnt of existed in the early 70's. At this moment, Silver is probably my number one choice. I think sports cars from the sixties and seventies looked great in Silver. Especially the old Porsches and Ferrari's. I have seen this car in a high quality silver paint job and it really adds a lot of class to the car.

Thats just my opinion which I am sure many would disagree with.

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Really. I didnt know the front light bucket was supposed to be fiberglass. Is that true for US models also. Car was built in 9/70

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Yes, they were plastic on the early "HLS30" USA / North American market version too.

Interestingly, there does not seem to be a reliable cut-off date or changeover VIN number for them suddenly becoming steel. Some people have tried to identify when this switch happened, but I think it was more chaotic than a simple switchover from plastic to steel. I have experience of cars with one side plastic and one side steel that definitely came from the factory that way. Seems they might have used both for a little while during the changeover period. Its another one of those funny little anomalies that sounds most unlike the Japanese character.................

I'm with you all the way with regard to your sentiments on colours for these cars. I too think Silver looks just fantastic on a good straight and bodily stock early car. Hope yours turns out just how you want it to.

Good luck with it,

Alan T.

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Mmagnus, Alan,

As far as the fiberglass headlight buckets go, I have seen cars built through 2/71 (American market) having both 'glass buckets. My car has a build date of 1/71 and I had a parts car w/ a date of 2/71. Unfortunately, the glass buckets are getting hard to find, just ask our great Adminstrator, Mike. That's why I'm keeping the 2 sets of broken ones, just practice my fiberglass techniques.

As far as color choices, I like the 905 Red on my car. Looks absolutely great (and bright) when clean and shiney out in the bright sun. I also think the early Z's are about the only production vehicle to ever really look good in yellow. And I have to agree with you guys that Silver is definitely a good choice for a 240. I don't think the orange or brown were ever good color for these cars. Personal opinion, though.....

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bonniec75209, that is actually before primer. What you see in the picture is bare metal. I was really pleased to see the body so strait without any bondo. Thanks for the complement. I will be posting more pix as 3 month process continues.... Cant wait to write this check

:ermm:

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kmack, I agree with your statement regarding color. I think there are a few cars that look great in yellow. The 240 Z is definately one of them. I do however think the Z is one of the few cars that looks great in Orange. Even though there is a new resurgence from auto makers using yellow and orange, I think they definately give the car a vintage feel about them.

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Wow, that is amazing!!! (I have got to get a new pair of reading glasses). Mine sure didn't look anywhere near that nice when it was in that state. Due to very bad body work I have to go through all that again. (After I get the suspension lined out right). It has rust popping out all over it and it looks awful. You are right to wait and get someone who knows what they are doing and that will do it right the first time.

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Originally posted by mmagnus

Well, finally after 1 year of waiting for the body shop of my choice to fit me in, he finally called me.

Mark

Glad to hear your project is moving forward. Now, how about sharing the name of the body shop that you chose, and the reasons for choosing them. There are more than a few of us in the Bay Area that would like to know who they can take their car to for a Quality job. I'm assuming tht you chose them for a "Quality" job and not a Maaco quicky ;)

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No problem. I am happy to share the name of the shop I am using. The body shop is called Vornhagen Auto Body and they are in Brentwood here in the east bay. The owner is Kevin Vorhagen and he very well known in the bay are for his custom work including painting race cars and dragsters. He is also giving me a bit of a break on the price as his sister-in-law is one of my employees and also a friend of my wifes. Kevin has a great reputation and does work for all of the major dealerships in the area. (Thats why it took me a year to see him). If felt it was worth the wait knowing he will do a great job. He is also a really great guy to talk to. If you want to contact him you can call

him at 925 516-1969, keep in mind you are going to be on a 1 year lead time unless he gets some openings.

Good luck

Mark

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I'm in the process of tearing down the body of my 260 although I know there is a fair amount of rust in that. Well done on yours though, it's looking good. I look forward to seeing more photo's as the project progresses.

Did you have the interior stripped? I can't make it out from the photo. What about underneath? Excuse the questions but I'm trying to formulate a strategy for my own project.

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Nigel, Yes the interior was removed from the car with the exception of the dash, the entire interior was removed. When sand blasting the car its almost a must. If you dont, the interior would be completely ruined. Its a very messy process.

Once I got on the waiting list for the body shop, I started on the tear down. First thing I did was remove the drive train all the way back to the rear end. The I removed everything else from the engine bay leaving a couple hard brake lines from the rear that I didnt want to disconnect and had him sandblast also.

Then I removed the windows, frames, door mechanisims, etc and all of the body components including lights and molding. Exhaust and fuel tank was removed. Fuel tank was sent to radiator shop and fully restored inside and out and new sending unit installed.

Last was the interior. All interior panels, seats, consol and carpeting removed. This gives you an opportunity to find some surprise rust. I found some pretty nasty stuff under the spare wheel. Fortunatly its repairable because you cant buy that part.

I will detail and paint the underneath when the car comes back before I install the new drive shaft, rearend, etc.

Hope this helps. I will continue posting pictures to my gallery to show progress. There are more photos from yesterday after sealer was applied.

Mark

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Hey,After your cat story I think I have a personal license tag.----LITRBOX -----It's just at theory.ROFL Daniel

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Originally posted by Daniel

Hey,After your cat story I think I have a personal license tag.----LITRBOX -----It's just at theory.ROFL Daniel

I think that was mperdue (michael) that had the cat problem.

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Other than the door jams and sills, the only interior part that was blasted was under the spar wheel do to rust. This way it allowed me to see the extent of the damage and make the necessary repairs. I decided that removing the paint from the rest of the interior was not worth it and would be better to leave the old paint. I decided to line the interior with 3/8 inch sound dedening material under the carpets and all of the interior panels.

Mark

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