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Initial review of MSA weber 40 DCOE carb kit


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Michell, do you have any photos of the Thermo Tec-13575 installed? I'm thinking of doing similar myself.

Steve -

No I don't. It is only approx 1/8" thick and lives on the underside of the heat shield.

I just cut out a template of the underside of the heat shield cleaned the underside surface, and stuck it right there. That fast and that easy.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-13575

  • Aluminized Heat Barrier is made up of woven silica with a flexible aluminized finish; the highly reflective surface of the material is capable of withstanding radiant temperatures in excess of 2000 degrees fahrenheit
  • The adhesive backed composite construction material can easily be applied to any surface or wrapped around a hose or wire to make a clean professional appearance
  • Some Typical uses include: firewall, hoods, hoses, doors and anywhere you want to control radiant heat

Edited by Travel'n Man
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You could take it further if you wanted to.

Buy a simple piece of sheet metal at hardware store and attach it to the heat shield with another bolt in between creating an air barrier between the headers and the carbs. Caine that with the adhesive wrap and you will be seriously protecting your carbs from heat

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Very interesting info in this thread. I used the stock linkage and made my own pieces from the rod out of the firewall to the rest. Let me know what you think. If you are fabbing your own pieces, use 7073 aluminum, which is one of the harder alloys. Anything softer will start wallowing out any holes in a short time, and totally defeat all your precise adjustments. My heat shield is a sandwich of .090 aluminum with strips of header wrap in between the two plates. Very effective at keeping the header heat from the carbs.

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I have finished my initial brackets for my custom fuel rail. I took my inspiration from the OEM brackets that hold the OEM fuel rail.

I need to round the corners and sand and paint them. Also, I am not happy with the supplied fittings that came with the DCOE's. I ordered some straight banjo fittings from CArbs Direct to clean up my installation. As you can see with piece of scrap fuel line shown, the bend that extreme is not desirable. I have been shortening the hose from the front of the fuel rail to the regulator on the front fender, and I almost have it to where I like it.

I still need to swap which sides the carbs actuate from and install my heat shield, but that should not be an issue. I still need to fabricate a bracket for the front of the engine to hold the fuel near the valve cover, and wire up my pump.

But here it is so far.

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Things are shaping up! I ordered a new arm to actuate my rod.

That linkage rod came from McMasters, and it is was a 5/16" mini drive shaft. It is CRAZY straight. However, I warn you guys. I selected next day air on a 22 dollars drive shaft. Thinking well I want this fast, as I have a car show I really want to enter on the 21st so I want to get this quickly! 43 DAMN DOLLARS to next day air it.. OUCH! You see they let you select next day air, but they tell you it will be added to your price and billed. Your total will be mailed to you in a few days! Well live and learn on that one.

HAHAHA :stupid::stupid:

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But here it is so far.

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I really wish I hadn't looked at that picture - - - I "refreshed" my webers, engine and engine compartment about 17 years ago..and they are over do for a rework now... I forgot how good they looked then... another summer project ...

FWIW,

Carl B.

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