Initial review of MSA weber 40 DCOE carb kit

[Zedyone_kenobi]

My weekends are hosed Mike, as my wife is in school on Saturdays, for her masters. So I am babysitting every saturday with my amazingly active 4 year old!

I would love to go, and one day I am going. I agree, it would be a whole lot of fun to meet you! I have not given up on the Great Texas Z rally. I promised everybody a spring run, but time constraints, and this engine build have taxed me.

I have also pulled the trigger on the TEXAS 1000 November 11-16, 2012, put on by www.vintagerallies.com

It is expensive, but I have been saving money every month for a while. And it will be an early 40th birthday present.

If you can swing it, look into that rally. It is NOT cheap, but it looks amazing!!!!!!

[d240zx2]

Wow! Looks like fun, but way too expensive for this old "retired" dude....

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Well normally I would say it was way to expensive for me as well Frank. But I figure I have 7 months to save up for it. And my brother and I are splitting it. Of course that means I have to let him drive my Z, which I have reservations about, but still I only have to come up with half that amount.

Now back to carbs.

My order form McMaster CAR came in and the 5/16" mini drive shaft was polished perfection. It turns smoothly in my rod ends on my Cannon manifold. I am expecting my LOKAR cable to come in today or tomorrow. I Still need to find a power wire for my Carter Electric Fuel pump. I mounted it on the vertical plane that holds the rear lower control arm bushing. Seems like a perfect place. Having to fit a fuel filter in that location is going to be a bear though. But that is part of the fun. Both extra wires I have dangling from my fuel sending unit wiring harness do not provide 12 volts when I turn the key, I may need to find another keyed 12 V source.

I also made good head way on my custom fuel rail. I managed to get the extruded aluminum cut to a good length and both ends tapped to accept the 3/8" NPT fittings. Also got a whole bunch of Russell -6 AN fittings into play with. Still have no idea how I am going to mount the LOKAR cable to the carbs, and I am not sure where return springs are going to mount. I sense more custom metal cutting in my near future.

Blue I ordered that synchronizer you have listed there. I figured it was a step up from my old Unisyn.

I will snap some pics soon.

[steve91tt]

The "extra wires" near the fuel sending unit need to be energized to support a fuel pump on a 1971. You will find an empty plug near the fuse box that needs to have a hot wire and fuse added to it. Once that is done you should be good to go. I don't remember the color of the wire leading to the empty plug and I don't have access to my car today so maybe someone else can help with the details.

[madkaw]

Can't believe there is that much issue with the linkages on new carbs.Now that I have linkage complete it feels good as far as return pressure and smoothness.

Maybe I need to start a thread on my Mikuni install to compare!!

Those wires around the sending unit are the right ones- probably not hooked behind the fuse box area. On my 7

9/71 the circuit was not complete, but I had a 73 harness laying around that had the rest of the wires. It basically is just a loop circuit to include a fusable link.

I ordered a pump relay and I'm also going to have a separate switch on the drivers side to turn the pump off at will. I went with the rx7 pump

Edited April 5, 2012 by madkaw

[Zedyone_kenobi]

I See, time to dig through the wiring diagram. I think the wire was either black, or green/yellow, which could mean it was green and white but dirty. The blackwire had a male bullet style connector on it.

[madkaw]

Actually it is black with white stripe and a solid green. Looked at them just yesterday

[Zedyone_kenobi]

My black wire has nothing going to it at all,

But when I connect a multimeter to the green one, the voltage fluctuates in a set frequency, much like the fuel sending unit. If I were a betting man, I should be tapping into the black/white one. That color combo carries 12V all over the darn car!!!

[Carl Beck]

The addition of the throttle cable has completely eliminated the jerkiness on acceleration. I have found that 2 springs gives good drivability, reasonable return to idle, and no driving fatigue.

Could you show us more about how the throttle cable was installed... what it took, or how it was modified - to hook to the accelerator pedal etc.

thanks,

Carl B.

[Travel'n Man]

This may help some:

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?30584-Accelerator-linkage-fix-questions&highlight=lokar

[Mike W]

So the most complicated part of this for me turned out to be the connection at the carb end, not the pedal. At the pedal, I drilled out the "ball" connection for the initial part of the OEM bell crank and replaced it with a fitting that mated to the Lokar cable. That was pretty straight forward, although I will have to go back through my files to find the exact fitting that I used.

On the carb end, I managed to find a bracket that mounts to the underside of one of the webers and was designed to acceept a more general purpose throttle cable. I ended up fabricating a small aluminum L bracket that allowed me to adapt this bracket to the Lokar end component. On the firewall, all I needed were some large washers that allowed me to attach the threaded end of the sheath on the Lokar part to the firewall.

As I recall, I purchased a Weber throttle cable kit some time back from Top End Performance, and that's where I got the bracket. It's pretty simple so I think that it would be fairly easy to fabricate.

I've included a couple of pictures that might help to illustrate this better, although I don't have any of the pedal area.

If you want some of the pedal, let me know. I can probably sneak a camera up there to get a shot without too much of an issue.

Mike.

[Carl Beck]

Thanks Mitchell / Mike W.

I'll have to go look again at the stock pedal assembly - but I think I understand...

FWIW,

Carl B.