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First time Z owner


Perfect240Z

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Yep you got a good one it is an early one when I saw the duel levers on the council I new it was a low number. When looking for rust check under the carpets around the drain holes and the back deck lid, rocker-panel and under the battery if they are not rust good bet you won't find much. By the way pm me some lotto number because you must be lucky to get one like this for free. I spent 2 years and 10 flights and found something close with a little body work needed. And you got some work ahead to bring her back to great condition, but if no rust this car will be worth it. If you don't think so PM me ;)

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Very nice! Sure it will cost you money to get it running and upkeep but a non running Z in that shape would sell fast anyhow. Start with the usual tests, spark , fuel and compression. That car will run again. Good luck.

Edited by grantf
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Ya and I work government, so I get spat on weapons pulled the whole 9 yards of bad. I also get the old lady who likes what I did and the people who will help out in a moments notice, even had a mayor who knew me give me a ride to and from the auto parts store so I could replace a broken u joint.

When I worked private I got private box seats, concert tickets and all sorts of expensive goodies for saving their trees, and protecting their homes, even for being expert witness in court cases or statement to insurance companies, just not one of my dream cars.

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So I don't know if anyone would know if this is normal or not. But I was checking the air filter and to me it looked extra dirty but it also seemed maybe oily? I've never worked on a carbuerated car before, but that doesn't seam right. Filter looks to be a K&N performance filter that can be cleaned. But Im not sure I want to clean it because how dirty and oily it is. I might just go ahead and order a new one. But does this sound normal to everyone?

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So I don't know if anyone would know if this is normal or not. But I was checking the air filter and to me it looked extra dirty but it also seemed maybe oily? I've never worked on a carbuerated car before, but that doesn't seam right. Filter looks to be a K&N performance filter that can be cleaned. But Im not sure I want to clean it because how dirty and oily it is. I might just go ahead and order a new one. But does this sound normal to everyone?

K&N filters are cotton that you soak with oil, I'd get the cleaning kit and re-oil. The carbs need to be clean, they should not be dirty otherwise you will suck that into the engine.

Start slow getting it to run! Start be replacing plugs and points & condenser in the distributor. While replacing the plugs put a little oil in on top of the piston to oil the top rings (more than likely their is no oil on the pistons). Change the oil, no reason moving water and junk through the engine were it don't belong. Then you can turn the engine, don't start it if you can resist. Next lash the valves, this will be something you should do every year any ways and the engine needs to turn to do this. Drain the fuel and blow out the fuel lines. If you don't want to drain the tank at least use fresh gas into the pump the old stuff can damage the engine and rust will damage the pump and plug the filter. Next check if you have spark, and that you are getting fuel to the carbs. You can prime the bowls or spray some either to see if she will start at this point.

I gave a very easy over view their is more you may want or need to do. Just remember engines don't like to sit that long anything that needs oil, oil it first before starting. I would not play with the carbs till she turns over. More than likely they will need to be cleaned and tuned, but the car should fire even out of tune. With the carbs you will want to find a Z specialist or a british car specialist to go over tuning SU carbs

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Ohh ok so it is supposed to be oily? I checked the plaugs already, they are brand new but they are autolites, im going to be buying some ngk next week after xmas money starts rollin in :) The Car actually has clean oil since the last owner drove it 50 miles and it has a full tank of Gas. But yes the oil and gas are 2 years old sitting in the garage, I just upgraded the breaker points to a pertronix igniotion system and it still wont turn over. I need to get a second person to help me with checking the spark. I took pics of the distributor upgrade I'll post those later tonight. There is a wire that is somewhat exposed on the ignition coil wiring that i think could be a reason that it stopped working for the last owner. But I can check spark when it stops raining.

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Oil has cleaners that won't last 2 years in a engine when they break down the make the oil bad, also put some oil in the pistons it will damage the cylinder walls The car normally hold some oil from its last run on the rings this is enough to prevent damage till the engine starts and pumps oil back up, the problem is when it has not ran in a while the oil has now all ran off. It is good he left a full tank of gas it helps prevent it from making a resin in the system it migh not be good to run however. Just use a gas can, stick a hose off the pump in side the can.

Have you sprayed either into the carb and try to start it yet? I've checked spark by pulling the wire and putting it on the valve cover with the boot pulled back. If you had points you could pull the point back and see if you had spark.

You do need better pugs than Autolights, this car will burn them out but it won't stop the car from turning over. If you got spark the next thing would be fuel.

Edited by ajmcforester
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Oil has cleaners that won't last 2 years in a engine when they break down the make the oil bad, also put some oil in the pistons it will damage the cylinder walls The car normally hold some oil from its last run on the rings this is enough to prevent damage till the engine starts and pumps oil back up, the problem is when it has not ran in a while the oil has now all ran off. It is good he left a full tank of gas it helps prevent it from making a resin in the system it migh not be good to run however. Just use a gas can, stick a hose off the pump in side the can.

Have you sprayed either into the carb and try to start it yet? I've checked spark by pulling the wire and putting it on the valve cover with the boot pulled back. If you had points you could pull the point back and see if you had spark.

You do need better pugs than Autolights, this car will burn them out but it won't stop the car from turning over. If you got spark the next thing would be fuel.

when I first picked u[ the car before the rain I bought a new battery and tried to fire her up with some starting spray, she will start and die with the spray. When this rain goes away I can test spark, Im also going to pick up a little turkey baster for squirting some oil on top of the pistons, I didn't realize that the insides would get damaged.

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when I first picked u[ the car before the rain I bought a new battery and tried to fire her up with some starting spray, she will start and die with the spray. When this rain goes away I can test spark, Im also going to pick up a little turkey baster for squirting some oil on top of the pistons, I didn't realize that the insides would get damaged.

Just 6-7cc of oil will do in each piston.

SO it did fire that is good to know if you didn't mess anything up you have spark :)

Now we can go to fuel supply. First I bet you have resin build-up in the float chamber and fuel pump, very common for sitting cars. By the way pick up several new fuel filters you will be surprised how much junk builds up in a two year sitting car. I'm betting you have the original mechanical fuel pump, get a bucket and run the engine and see if your getting gas from the pump. Yes then proceed to the float chambers (be careful on the screws I don't think you can get original style ones anymore). This is a carb part so don't fell bad to tell me you don't know what something is, I would greatly appreciate that so we don't waist time. Their are 4 screws on top of the float remove and gently lift, their are thin parts that deal with adjustment and a glass bearing in the valve. clean the valve. on the side were the hose connects take that a part their is a screen inside clean it. if the float gets in the way carefully remove the pin that it rotates on you don't want to drop the float. put it back together and add alittle fuel to the float. Then see if she starts.

If she starts don't run it for long or drive it yet you can do some damage. You will need to re-lash the valves (if the valve lashing is way off you can do damage to the valves and the cam). and clean up the carb dashpots. Lets do the ego boost and get her to start first

I'd also recommend getting a copy of the factory service manual, you can find copies on CD and in paper.

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when I first picked u[ the car before the rain I bought a new battery and tried to fire her up with some starting spray, she will start and die with the spray. When this rain goes away I can test spark, Im also going to pick up a little turkey baster for squirting some oil on top of the pistons, I didn't realize that the insides would get damaged.

If you've turned it over (started it with starting spray) you've already moved the pistons in the cylinders. It's a good idea to change all the fluids if it's been sitting a couple years. The gas is probably quite icky by now.

Don't forget the brake fluid and clutch cylinder fluid. You may find that you have leaks at/in the master cylinder, brake cylinders, or clutch cylinders. You don't want to find out that the brakes are bad during that first spirited run when you finally get it started. I speak from experience with too many underused older cars. :stupid:

Dennis

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