Retro Sound Install

[mlaw7]

Very nice!

How did you wire this in? Any photos of the wiring? What did you wire the incoming antenna lead into?

Did this require any alterations to the original radio harness?

Can you still use your power antenna?

[Travel'n Man]

Very nice!

How did you wire this in? Any photos of the wiring? What did you wire the incoming antenna lead into?

Did this require any alterations to the original radio harness?

Can you still use your power antenna?

mlaw7-

* No alterations to the original radio harness since mine is still live and I have two sound systems in my car

* I have to use my power antenna to have an antenna - I "y'd" it off the back of the original radio - very basic and easy

* Follow the instructions for wiring - 1 to the battery - 1 to the fuse box and a ground if I remember correctly. It was very basic and easy.

* If I remember I have over 900 songs via the memory card and the random feature works nicely.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

My project started today with a refurb of the cables in the heater unit. While I was waiting for the Retrosound to arrive.

I started by removing the cables attach points from inside the dash. One to the water valve, one to the heater flapper on the floor, which is the DEF cable, and one to the large flapper right over the heater core, which is the AIR cable I believe.

This allowed to me to easily remove the 4 screws holding the center dash plate on. You have to feed the push light back through the center dash plate to remove the plate. Also, you have to disconnect the white connector that goes to the fan speed rotary switch. Nothing was hard, but my old body did not want to bend to get all the cables loose.

I went further than I thought I would because so much was dirty, I decided to clean it up. I removed the front off the plenum behind the center vent and cleaned it up.

I am sure that the fixture on the right which feeds the center and side dash vents has some kind of seal on the back side, but mine was all but disintegrated. I will try to find some kind of rubber seal or weather stripping to use to seal that back up when I put it back on.

Here is the center dash plate removed and dusted off.

and here is the cable control mechanism a bit closer...

you can see on that last image that there was some kind of foamseal between the plastic and the vent tube, but it was long gone. I will try to find something to hold that in place. A trip to the hardware store may be needed.

I installed my new cables I ordered and generously lubed up the sliders with some bicycle teflon spray. It leaves a film of teflon on after the spray evaporates so it does not tend to attract as much dirt. Needsless to say with new cables and the levels well lubed the thing moves like butter on a warm day.

I am still waiting on my radio, so that is all for now. I will put my ducting back together some time this week. I will have to fight the urge to not pull out my fuel gage and clean it up a bit. It is so EASY to get to.

ONE QUESTION though:

I noticed what appeared to be a hard uncoated bare metal wire about as thick and hard as an old metal coat hanger, just bouncing around in my dash. I followed it and it goes to the little add on rotary temperature control for my dealer installed AC. I have a suspicion that it is a thermocouple of some sorts, to regulate when the compressor turns on. Does this sound right. I have no idea where the end of it goes. One end comes out of my rotary switch for the AC the other end of the metal wire was just dangling back behind the blower near the evap or condenser.

More to come as time gets closer. On a happy note, I found my old antenna up/down switch stashed away in some wires. I plan to make use of that!

[d240zx2]

Your "old body!" Har-de-har-har-har!

[Zedyone_kenobi]

Okay, you got me Frank....but after contorting myself to get a view under that dash, I certainly am not 18 anymore! haha

[ZCurves]

Hey! You mentioned a kind of 'Foam Seal' that had rotted away. I have been using Closed Foam sheet under the dash on my Z. The foam is what you place under a door jamb. It comes in a big roll, is about 4 inches wide and is light blue in color. I bought mine at Lowes Home Improvement...

This stuff can be cut and glued with Contact Cement into about any shape you need. It does not rot and works great replacing the foam transitions between the Heater Box/Cowl, Heater Box/AC Ducting. I even covered my AC copper lines between the firewall and Evaporator.

I will see if I can get a picture.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

That is awesome info!! That is what I was looking for!

Looks like I need to go to Lowes then. Radio needs to get here QUICK!

[EScanlon]

It's interesting that your HC appears to only have 3 cables and not 4. I'm wondering if that is because of the AC and the Fresh Air Vent being rendered inoperative.

AFAIK, that "hard wire" IS the thermocouple for the AC, i.e. it detects that the AC has reached the "temp" that you've selected.

As far as the sealing foam between the triple horn bellows and the body of the heater, any thin foam tape will do as long as it's compressible and about 1/2" wide.

The real bear to replicate is the other end of the connecting bellows from the triple horn to the center fresh air vent. That one needs to seal the complete back of the vent to the bellows AND also the rotating vent itself. The inside of that connection behind the vent is all covered with foam.

I used a 1/2" thick material to reproduce it. I think I have a very fragile original foam seal still on a vent to photograph and I'll do that in the next few days.

E

[Arne]

When I rebuilt the heater box on the yellow Z, I used 1/4" thick closed cell foam that was self-adhesive on one side. It was about 1/2" wide. Worked great. I probably need to do that on the red car too, but I'm not excited about pulling the heater box out.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE:

My retrosound model one came in today. Just before I left for work I decided to take a peak inside. So far, I am very impressed. I was leery about how nice the install would be with a cut to fit type of application, but Retrosound say they have kits for hundreds of cars, I think they meant it. This is a VERY good first sign that this is a well sorted piece of kit. Notice the Datsun Z in the left corner. IT made me giddy with delight.

It was also well packaged and all the wires appear to be very well marked

More to come on the install soon. I will take the kit apart and take pictures the best I can. Hopefully it will help others out as well. I mean thats what we are all here for.

I will also try to snap some pics of my heater cable installation if people are interested in that, so the mystery behind the heater controls is gone.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

It's interesting that your HC appears to only have 3 cables and not 4. I'm wondering if that is because of the AC and the Fresh Air Vent being rendered inoperative.

AFAIK, that "hard wire" IS the thermocouple for the AC, i.e. it detects that the AC has reached the "temp" that you've selected.

As far as the sealing foam between the triple horn bellows and the body of the heater, any thin foam tape will do as long as it's compressible and about 1/2" wide.

The real bear to replicate is the other end of the connecting bellows from the triple horn to the center fresh air vent. That one needs to seal the complete back of the vent to the bellows AND also the rotating vent itself. The inside of that connection behind the vent is all covered with foam.

I used a 1/2" thick material to reproduce it. I think I have a very fragile original foam seal still on a vent to photograph and I'll do that in the next few days.

E

Let me clear up something. First let me apologize for not being more concise with my picture description. I do have 4 cables as you describe EScanlon. The one that runs to the passenger side somewhere way behind the AC evaporator I did not manage to track down, so I unhooked it right at the slider control and I will have to reinstall it before put everything back together. I think it goes to the outside air vent if I am not mistaken.

I will keep my eyes open for a thin wall foam tape. I need a trip to the Home Depot pretty soon.

[Zedyone_kenobi]

UPDATE:

I was able to get the template cut out for the center dash. How ever, that was not without issues.

As you can see the template laid out for Datsun Z is clearly marked. And when you hold it up to the center console it looks pretty close. I would think it would be perfect for a 280Z. BUT for a 240Z it is not. I repeat, do not trust the indention labeled Datsun Z. Make a paper template from your center dash yourself and trace it onto the ABS plastic mounting face. That way you get it to fit exactly.

Mine is close, but not perfect, which bugs me to no end. THe side angles are all WRONG for a 71. I should have done it right the first time. I get in a hurry at times, and it is almost always a bad thing.

Retrosound, please make a note of this issue, as not all early Z's from 70-77 have the same dash opening. A different kit is needed for 240Z's.

Still it is not the end of the world.

On a more technical note, I did find a very convenient 12V constant, and now I need to find a good 12V ACC lead. Should be easy. I located and cleaned off the contacts of my antenna up/down switch. This is neat, as I have a curious issue.

With the key on the center tab of the antenna switch gets 12.1 volts from the battery as its suppose to. When I rock the switch either to the up or down position, the corresponding tab gets voltage and there is an audible click from my antenna location, which his good! But what is bad, is when I put a voltmeter up to the up down tabs with the rocker pressed, I only get 5 volts out from the switch. So my question is this. Is my rocker bad, or do I have a bad ground not allowing voltage to flow to the antenna?

More pics to come later.