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Ztherapy excitement


Zedyone_kenobi

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Sometimes my responses may come off sounding too obvious but I find myself thinking in terms of "who may be reading this that may not be as up to speed on our services" as you the "learned" ones.

Call me and we can work out the particulars. For enough money, etc etc etc

You have done my 4 screw carbs as well as my friend's 3 screw carbs. They are excellent! As matter of fact, it is way better than factory ones. I have rebuilt so many of them, but none of them turn out as good as yours. Especially your throttle shaft with roller bearings. My car idles smooth like an injected car.

I strongly recommend your SU set up to everyone!

Thanks a bunch!

Esprist

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  • 3 weeks later...

UPDATE: Today I got a baseline reading on my currently installed factory carbs. There is no telling how many times these have been messed with, but I slapped my new edlebrock sync tool I got from Bruce on there at idle with the engine warm and the carbs are FAR from balanced. ONe shot the red cup up to almost the 4th line. The back carb only managed to barely move it to the first. Since I am going to take these off, and they do run what I thought was well. I am looking forward VERY much to seeing how well she will run with a balanced set of carbs on there.

PS. I adjusted the fast idle screw up to 3000 rpm per the SU video and the readings were far more even. But the front carb was still reading higher. I think I may have a vacuum leak in the back carb somewhere. Still all bolts are currently sitting in penetrating fluid, so the removal will start soon. My new intake/exhaust studs have arrived, as have my new air cleaner decals, filter, and my orange paint is on order. I have my new MSA intake/exhaust gasket waiting installation.

Fun times ahead.

Just if your curious. I adjusted the mixture nut on the bottom of the carb on the rear carb to see if I could get it to come in to match the front, and it had no effect. I think I recall that is how you adjust them at idle. I will have to watch the SU video again. Its wonderful by the way!

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Zedyone_kenobi, I am just a few steps ahead of you in the overhaul of the intake and exhaust with ZT carbs. The final upgrade will be replacing the intake with a polished intake, with ZT Euro Tube and replace the stock manifold with Jim Cook 3 to 2 headers. I am still debating if I should cap off the water/coolant line running through the intake manifold. Here in So Cal, we don't get the bone chilling weather that warrants the intake to be pre-warmed by the coolant going through the manifold.

Today it was a dismantling day. The PB-Blaster week of soaking on those rusted bolts really did the job in loosening up the bolts = "no broken bolts". Easily and gently unscrewed the bolts from the heads and they all came off without a hitch. Installed the new intake/exhaust bolt & nut kit from MSA with plenty of the high-temp anti-seize stuff. Also removed, along with all those twisted smog air hoses, is the boat anchor of an air pump and bracket. Taking the smog pump and bracket took more effort then removing the intake and exhaust due to the tight spaces and the zillions of air tubes cluttering the back of the pump. I ran out of time to undo the rusted 2.5 inch pipes and muffler, it'll be next weekend's job along with installing the headers, intake manifold (assuming it will be delivered before the weekend). More adventure to come.

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Good Luck on it! I was fortunate as somebody has already beaten me to removing the smog pump. I already have a header, so it sounds like they saved me a ton of work! I think what I may do is try do a photo documentary on this. It will give step by step directions to future Z a holics. Plus as a bonus, it will allow me to track my progress so I can get back to where I was if I forget where something went.

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One of my concern in replacing the stock iron exhaust manifold with a uninsulated header is the increase of heat that may effect the carburation. Did you encounter any issue with excessive heat on your setup, assuming your header is not insulated?

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One of my concern in replacing the stock iron exhaust manifold with a uninsulated header is the increase of heat that may effect the carburation. Did you encounter any issue with excessive heat on your setup, assuming your header is not insulated?

I'm sure you already know this, but a heat shield could be fabricated really easily. A ceramic coated header with a heat shield would be the best combinaton; probably cooler than the factory setup.

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My header was Jet Hot coated, not sure how long ago, and I run the factory heat shield. I am going to send the heat shield off to be powercoated with a high temp coating. I was even thinking of doing a reflective barrier on the back of the heat shield, Think McLaren F1 supercar. Of course I would not use 24 karat gold, but I could find something that has good insulating properties.

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Hi Steve, I've had an MSA 6-2 header in my '73 for about 3 years now. It is not coated with anything and not wrapped with anything. I've never had an issue with too much heat under the hood. I've got round top SU's and the stock heat shield.

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UPDATE: Due to the amazing great weather we had yesterday I spent the morning removing my intake to prepare for the installation. Everything went very straight forward for the most part. I spilled more coolant that I would have liked, but that was only a 10 minute diversion. THe hardest part of this by far was removal of the studs. Two gave me grief, the others came out rather nicely with using the old two nut method. I also soaked most of them with liquid wrench the day before, which may or may not have helped. I think having a header instead of a stock exhaust manifold gave me more clearance to work as well. ON to the pics...

First pic is my box that I used to keep track of my studs and where they came from. I usually use a piece of cardboard as it is nice to make notes on as you go.

4076179053_61567588b0_b.jpg

THe next pic recalls something that was said earlier on this post. Gasket differences. The lower gasket is the one off the car. Obviously not a stock one. Notice the metal contact surfaces for the header to rest against. This is like the ultra high quality gaskets I use to use when I rebuild V8's. Above is the meager-by-comparison MSA gasket. I think I want to find another gasket like the one below.

4076178967_c6e8551031_b.jpg

Here is the engine so far. All the studs removed, no casualties yet. I have been using scotch bright to clean up the surface of the header and head. It feels very smooth, and I think will seal quite well.

4076934820_b0801abed5_b.jpg

Here is the old intake and carbs. You can also see the new intake/exhaust stud kit ready to go back in...

4076934710_9918dcba57_b.jpg

THats all for now. ONe question though. I have read some posts on other car forums that its horrible to use antisieze on studs/bolts/spark plugs for aluminum heads. This goes against everything I have ever done. Does anybody have any more insight to this. MY dad is a retired A&P mechanic, and says they use antisieze on aluminum heads all the time.

MOre updates to follow. I have to start sanding my heat shield for refinishing.

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Looks familiar! :)

THats all for now. ONe question though. I have read some posts on other car forums that its horrible to use antisieze on studs/bolts/spark plugs for aluminum heads. This goes against everything I have ever done. Does anybody have any more insight to this. MY dad is a retired A&P mechanic, and says they use antisieze on aluminum heads all the time.

MOre updates to follow. I have to start sanding my heat shield for refinishing.

Wherever you read that info.......if it was the general consensus of the participants...........stay FAR FAR away from that forum. LOL

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I'm excited too! Just ordered the $630 dollar treatment from Bruce at Ztherapy yesterday, plus smooth and polish the intake and balance tube. I actually spent the extra money to have the european style balance tube. I've been working on my 240 for over a year now and am very close to being able to drive it. Bruce said about ten days for him to get the stuff ready and another 3 to 5 days for shipping, I can hardly wait. I'll post pics of the Euro balance tube when I get it

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