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Fletch

Hatch Lock question

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    Ok, so I may be really dumb. I just picked up my 72 240z a few weeks ago and both door locks work with the one key I received but no matter what I've tried I've been unable to lock the rear hatch. I know some older cars had a separate trunk key but I only got one. The push button mechanism works perfectly but I just can't lock it so I don't feel safe putting my radar detector or stereo in the car. I searched on here but couldn't find anything definitive so I wanted to see if there was some trick to locking the the hatch first of all. Second, would it require a different key and that's why I can't lock it? Third, what could I do to remedy this problem? I've been looking but everybody wants several hundred dollars for a complete lock and ignition replacement kit. Any ideas? Thanks!

    Fletch

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    For some i have heard that pushing down on the hatch helps to lock and unlock it, i found that if you push the button down and let it come up with the key inserted while turning it to the left, this unlocks it, or do the same and turn it the right so the slot is vertical to lock it

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    I've taken my locks and keys to a local locksmith and they fixed me right up. I think you can take the hatch lock and the key you have, and the locksmith should be able to re-key your hatch lock.

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    If you lay down in the back, you can remove the vinyl finisher panel on the hatch and reach inside to unlock the hatch. My pushbutton didn't work eother, so I substituted one from an MGB.

    post-2169-14150808273418_thumb.jpg

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    I've taken my locks and keys to a local locksmith and they fixed me right up. I think you can take the hatch lock and the key you have, and the locksmith should be able to re-key your hatch lock.

    Yes this is the correct and recommended solution.

    I also had a lock smith re-do all my locks to work off one key,

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    Well, I guess the dumb question is, is there a special way to lock it? Did they originally come with two keys then and the ignition key just doesn't open that specific lock I guess? How much (approx.) does it cost to get the hatch re-keyed? Thanks everybody!

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    Well, I guess the dumb question is, is there a special way to lock it? Did they originally come with two keys?

    It's not unusual for the locks to have been changed over the years and to no longer match.

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    Well, I guess the dumb question is, is there a special way to lock it?

    When the hatch is unlocked the key slot is vertical. When it is locked, the slot is horizontal. To unlock, put the key in and turn in clockwise one quater turn so that the slot is horizontal. If the key won't turn, you need to have the lock re-keyed. The button will press whether or not it is locked. When it is locked, pressing the button will not open it.

    Did they originally come with two keys then and the ignition key just doesn't open that specific lock I guess?

    From what Ive seen, some Z's had two keys, one for the ignition and one for the doors and hatch. Others had one key for everything.

    How much (approx.) does it cost to get the hatch re-keyed?

    It cost me around $20US per lock, if I remember correctly.

    I've had lots of trouble with the locks on our 3 280Zs. I paid the locksmith to fix the cylinders and re-key them all so that we could use just one key for all of our cars. Then I found that the doors could not be unlocked with the keys because the surfaces that actuate the locks arms were worn. Unfortunately, that kind of wear isn't repairable.

    In the end, I threw out the old Datsun door locks and used locks off other Nissans (Infinity G20 and Stanzas). I re-keyed them myself to save the expense. That's not an easy thing to do and not something I can go into right now. If you research it you might do able to re-key you own locks. Just be aware that you'll probably destroy the face shields to get the locks apart. There's also parts that are under spring tension that can go flying as you work.

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    On the 71 240 I used to have I had to replace the back hatch (lock was damaged as well as the hatch) and wanted the key to fit all locks so I took the hatch lock apart and by using the key I wanted to work with it I was able to rearrange the order of the flat things the key shoves over when it is inserted into the lock. It is good to take that thing apart in a very small enclosed space due to risk of flying small springs (a shower with drain covered?). The flat things have to line up even with the side of the cylinder for the key to open the lock if memory serves. I had to delete one or two of those flat things as well as I couldn't get all of them to line up using my key no matter which flat thing slot I put them in. The deletion slightly reduced the security of the lock (easier to pick) but I never had a problem with it.

    Mike

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    Those flat things are called wafers . They are held up by tiny springs . Take it to a locksmith, put it on the counter, and ask to have it keyed to your existing ignition key. Who knows, you might have a bent ( stuck ) wafer that a locksmith can repair. The lock might be full of corrosion . I am a locksmith and anything is possible at this point, but it might cost 20 bucks to find out, or you can do it yourself ( dismantle , service etc. ) but I don't think you should . And no, you are not dumb . Good questions deserve an actual experienced answer . Do not '' handyman '' this one , do it correctly as far as 20 bucks takes you.:)

    Edited by Unkle
    stupid spelling

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    Be aware that there are "Right" and "Left" hand cut keys and the matching locks on the 72's. You can not re-key a Right hand cut lock to use a Left hand cut key. Meaning that you can only have your hatch lock rekeyed to fit your ignition Key - if it uses the same R or L Key as your ignition.

    FWIW,

    Carl B.

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    Thanks for the tips so far guys. The hatch itself and the release work perfectly, but it just won't lock so I don't want to put any stereo stuff or radar detectors in it. I'm trying to figure out a good clean way to fab up some sort of manual hatch lock that can be reached from inside the cab because I don't use the hatch to much. Re-keying the lock seems like a good idea too, I may just have to pull it. Of course I just re-sealed around the lock after cleaning up the small amount of surface rust and also reattached the inner vinyl cover that covers the inside of the hatch where the lock is too, :D. Damn.

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    On the 71 240 I used to have I had to replace the back hatch (lock was damaged as well as the hatch) and wanted the key to fit all locks so I took the hatch lock apart and by using the key I wanted to work with it I was able to rearrange the order of the flat things the key shoves over when it is inserted into the lock. It is good to take that thing apart in a very small enclosed space due to risk of flying small springs (a shower with drain covered?). The flat things have to line up even with the side of the cylinder for the key to open the lock if memory serves. I had to delete one or two of those flat things as well as I couldn't get all of them to line up using my key no matter which flat thing slot I put them in. The deletion slightly reduced the security of the lock (easier to pick) but I never had a problem with it.

    Mike

    Random blast from the past, but can I ask how you got the hatch lock open to rekey it?

    Our local locksmith said with it being a sealed unit he couldn't do this, but seems on here many have done!

    Cheers!

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