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Operation 240k


KID-K

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may i ask why in some of the pictures there is green tape along the lines of the car? i can't quite work it out (other than to possibly protect the edges?)..

great job the car looks straight as a tack! how many hours did you spend bogging and sanding?

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The green tape on post #13 was to show were the inner guard sits....I just used it to show the internal wheel clearance. thanks

There's not much filler in the car at all, which means we spent a $^!# load of time getting it straight...

Edited by KID-K
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so what steps did you do from stripping to bare metal?

Mine is at the bare metal stage, i am planing to give it another rinse of POR metal ready (rust convertor/metal prep), then a non sanding epoxy primer coat (to seal the metal), then start work on minor filling

after bogging i had planned to do another epoxy prime coat to seal in any bog before doing a hi fill prime, after which i will hand off to a bodyshop to hopefully do the remaining 20% and colour

then again, i have no idea what i am doing (never done any bodywork), and piecing information together as i go :)

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so what steps did you do from stripping to bare metal?

Mine is at the bare metal stage, i am planing to give it another rinse of POR metal ready (rust convertor/metal prep), then a non sanding epoxy primer coat (to seal the metal), then start work on minor filling

after bogging i had planned to do another epoxy prime coat to seal in any bog before doing a hi fill prime, after which i will hand off to a bodyshop to hopefully do the remaining 20% and colour

then again, i have no idea what i am doing (never done any bodywork), and piecing information together as i go :)

HI......our body work was done before any primer was applied...We actually used the same 2 pak epoxy as a primer and as the high fill. 12 Litres of it....the reason for this was because, one it was epoxy...thinned down as an etch, then used as a high fill...secondly because it was black.....when it dried it was as hard as hell...good luck...body filler should go on bare metal!

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HI......our body work was done before any primer was applied...We actually used the same 2 pak epoxy as a primer and as the high fill. 12 Litres of it....the reason for this was because, one it was epoxy...thinned down as an etch, then used as a high fill...secondly because it was black.....when it dried it was as hard as hell...good luck...body filler should go on bare metal!

Awesome paint job/color choice, I'm in awe of the depth of the black . . . . look into the abyss!

What psi and what tip did you spray the high fill with?

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Some shots of the rear cv conversion before it gets bolted together. I used z31 turbo 5 bolt rear hubs, flanges, and half shafts, (the shafts themselves were fabricated for me by an engineer in bayswater, cost around $400)......The z31 rear flanges are much bigger than the standard 240k flanges, so the A frames also have to modified, so does the lower mounting plate for the shocker ( which now seems to fit better than standard)

post-16763-1415080801888_thumb.jpg

post-16763-14150808043729_thumb.jpg

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Awesome paint job/color choice, I'm in awe of the depth of the black . . . . look into the abyss!

What psi and what tip did you spray the high fill with?

you need to run a 2.5mm tip and needle kit in your gun, Dave ( my brother) says he ran our gun at 40-45 psi. Again we used the same epoxy thinned down as an etch........

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