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WingZr0

The State of Things....

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I think the studs go in whatever holes haven't been replaced with bolts! :-) Honestly, any exhaust manifold holes that can use a stud, put one in there--the holes that don't have studs are the very top ones, stock, I think, that are for the intake manifold.

Half of mine were already replaced with bolts, so I just kept them.

I just went through what post #1 looked like...doesn't look like it, but this is a lot of work, to get it running!!!!

I replaced my exhaust manifold, because the original had 2 stripped studs on the flange that went to the rest of the exhaust...got a great deal on ebay on a replacement exhaust manifold ($40 total with shipping) that also had the emission tubing removed and welded up...so I took off all the emission stuff as well....also welded up all holes on balance tube--it looks like the european ones--runs a lot better now,

but it was a lot of work to get back to running state from the picture of post #1 !!!!!!

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By the way, Victor said in the other thread:

<<

It eases assembly and disassmbly. With the bolts out, you set the exhaust manifold on the studs, set up the bridge washers, start the nuts, then you slide the intake manifold down under the bridge washers and install the bolts. This saves serveral minutes of dropped nuts trying to install them on the bridge washers while reach under and around the intake manifold.

It's a common modification we do on the roadsters, but stock on the 240.

BTW all the 240's I've worked on had the same "TR" "7" bolts.

>>

From just doing this work, this is very very true. Using bolts on the very top row for the intake lets you slide the intake from above, directly down into its set place for installation...if studs are there, this would be impossible. With a lot of stuff installed in this area, it's easier with bolts on the top row.

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Best I figure is 2 on the very bottom middle (5 & 7), and 1 each on the very ends (1 & 11) .

Since that leaves the other 7 "longer" studs in a logical pattern with the

odd numbered stud in the center hole (6) by itself.

It's been a while since I had the manifold off either car (both N47s) but I think you're right. 5, 7, 1, and 11 only go through the exhaust as does 6 and the rest 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, and 10 hold both the intake and exhaust so they should be the longer ones. IIRC. Remember, for the most part the old thread was referring to 240Zs and I believe that the manifolds on a 280 are thicker which would require the longer studs at the common mounting points.

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I just went through what post #1 looked like...doesn't look like it, but this is a lot of work, to get it running!!!!

Thaynx for clearing that up :)

but don't let the shop towls fool ya :rambo: I actually found kind of easy

(Except for that Darn EGR Tube :hurt:).

The mani's are still off awaiting that EGR Tube in the mail via MSA.

If it wasn't for that and smog stuff in Cali I would've did what you done

and put her back together 2 weaks ago when I got the FI Int/Exh Gasket LOL !

All thats left is reset my timing, mess with the idle screw and go from

there with buynig clutch disc and new Grand Prix GT 215/60/14

raised white letter tires :)

~Z~

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It's been a while since I had the manifold off either car (both N47s) but I think you're right. 5, 7, 1, and 11 only go through the exhaust as does 6 and the rest 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, and 10 hold both the intake and exhaust so they should be the longer ones. IIRC. Remember, for the most part the old thread was referring to 240Zs and I believe that the manifolds on a 280 are thicker which would require the longer studs at the common mounting points.

YESSSS, HA HAAAAAAAA...., wheres my Prize :DROFL

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Thaynx for clearing that up :)

but don't let the shop towls fool ya :rambo: I actually found kind of easy

(Except for that Darn EGR Tube :hurt:).

The mani's are still off awaiting that EGR Tube in the mail via MSA.

If it wasn't for that and smog stuff in Cali I would've did what you done

and put her back together 2 weaks ago when I got the FI Int/Exh Gasket LOL !

All thats left is reset my timing, mess with the idle screw and go from

there with buynig clutch disc and new Grand Prix GT 215/60/14

raised white letter tires :)

~Z~

thanks, Wingzo!

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Your Welcome,

Manifolids are back on :)

EGR Tube hooked up and is VERY NICE and BETTER THAN STOCK :)

Exhaust pipe hooked back up :)

Wireing her back up today and starting her up :)

YEHHHHHHHH :D

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Everything went great so far considering :)

I didn't finish up last night, but the entire fuel rail is back in place,

Fuel Injectors hooked up,

Smog Lines hokked up so on and so forth with just

the Fule Preasure Regulator left to go last.

There was more work than I initially expected with having to Man Up and

fit the new FI Hoses from MSA into place which are a tight squeeze and

rebending some sections of fuel rail into proper shape.

That and figuring out where certain parts went to where, forgeting to

bring my pre disassembly engine photo with me from home :D

But I pretty much figured it all out and left the FPR last having to

go to work by then. BOOOOOOOO :mad:

All in all I spent about 3 hours of time on her with the first half hour drinking some

Organic Larger Beer from Samuel Smith :)

Left the car ingintion in the ON poisition by mistake Wedneday :finger: :lick: :tapemouth,

so hopefully me aunt can give me a jump start

with her Nissan SE.

Other than that though everything is hooked up and ready for a

check and tripple check before starting her up today ^_^

I got those wire holders by the way Blake, Thyanx ^_^

~ ~ ~ Heres a tip for attaching the exuast pipe back to the Exhaust Manifold

on reassembly.

Lossing the middle hanger clamp behind the Cat Converter or Trans Tunel

and that will allow the Y-pipe to move more freely and line up with the

studs on Exhaust Manifold and connected easily.

After that retighten the hanger clamps!

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OK! ! ! !

She's all back together now ^_^

Boy it was a battle with that Fuel Preasure Regulator puting the new FI

hoses on.

It was the last part to go on so those of you in the know know how hard

that can be trying to get those hoses to go in such a tight of a space :beard:

Jus awaiting juice from my buddy tommorow who I think I have to bribe ROFL

Other than that, YEAHHHHHH :)

~Z~

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She started up !!!!

She lit with one turn of the key no hassles.

No truckish sound at all that I noticed.

She ran fine for about a second or so, very smooth and very

race car like, when I got 1 Rev in and she started to knock.

I looked down at my fuel gauge and saw someone had syphoned off

my Half Tank of Gas :mad:

~Z~

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I think a locking fuel cap should be a priority on the holiday gift list for your Z man :) With gas prices the way they are, fuel theft like that is going to happen more and more. :rolleyes:

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I think a locking fuel cap should be a priority on the holiday gift list for your Z man :) With gas prices the way they are, fuel theft like that is going to happen more and more. :rolleyes:

Yep Your Right.

BUMS :mad:

After I went through all that work now I gotta pay 3.69 a gallon :mad::mad:

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Yeah, I was watching that Manswers show on Spike TV the

other day and saw that guy who built that car in South Africa with

that flame thrower on it :D

Now that'd work. Jus like the narrator said, "BURRRN B*TCH" !!

iN OTHER NEWZ I got the car with new battery as the other one gad a

short in it.

Smoked alot of white clouds with the gasket sealant which cleared up.

Pulled all the wires off the Spark Plugs one at a time to see if

all the cylinders were going.

Number 6 now gets gas, all of 'em but #4.

Made sure all FI Ports were free of gasket sealant before installing

them so I know it's blocked (AGAIN ROFL)

Checked for spark and was getting spark.

Changed #4 Spark Plug and still no difference.

Changed the FI injector connector plug and still nothing so I

believe #4 Fuel Injector is now fried :surprised

Timing chain sound loose (rattle like).

She however is running wayyyy smother and starts on one key turn and

doesn't die when first turned on no more.

Shes goes to 1,100 RPM and stays there with no hesitation.

Still sound a bit rough so a complet tune up and check over gonna happen

for to long afther tranny shop.

Hopefully with good wheater I can do my comperssion check this

weakend and know more with that.

On better newz my Performance GT Gran Prix 215/60/R14 raised white letter

tires came in yesterday and they look AWESOME :D, so still making progress :):):):)

GrandPrixRadialGT60.jpgpost-13541-14150802028362_thumb.jpg

~Z~

post-13541-14150802028152_thumb.jpg

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Did some more fine tunning and got her running smoother still :D

#4 Fuel Injector is still gone but new one will be in at NAPA in the morning.

Beck Arnely brand was recalled BTW at NAPA anyway.

Check for exhaust leeks and saw the EGR Tube was puffing white at

the exhaust manifold so I tightend that up right quick!

Everything else looks and sounds good.

Ran a Compression Test also.

Let the engine run about 5 minutes are so till the temp guage read

halfway and got the readings of

Clyinder/ PSI

1- 145psi

2- 145

3- 145

4- 150

5- 145

6- 145

I understand it should be around 170 PSI or so.

Is my readings from not using the oil trick to get a higher

compression reading or is the numbers I got OK?

Keep in mind I only desconected the starter selonoid and went from there.

~Z~ one day at a time ....

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Those readings are fairly even and pretty normal for a car with 100000+ miles. You should worry when one cylinder is way off like 80 or something like that.

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if you use the 'oil trick' to get a higher compression reading, that would defeat the purpose of seeing what your actual compression reading is. The oil trick would tell you if the 145 vs. new was 100% due to the rings, vs. valve leaks. Your compression of 145-150 is just fine though, imo., for over 100k.

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AHH runinafireb.gif AH runinafireb.gif AHHHHHHHH runinafireb.gif

Just got off the phone with ATCO

and my tranny bill Codded Out at $1087 !

and thats before the decimal Argh___.gif

New Master and Slave Cylinder, resurfaced flywheel, all new clutch kit

and new Diff and Tranny Fluid.

Geez, and I just paid $433 for my new Gran Prix GT's only to find out I need

another $438 for complet new brake job after that!

Pads drums everything, it's all Codded !

AHHHHHHHH runinafireb.gif

~Z~

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Yikes!!

The work was just finished today and the guy said she works fine now.

I'm not sure what all they did yet but I get the invoice tommorow

morning.

Ther original qoute was $630for all the

above aforementioned minus the new Master and Slave cylinder which was

not known to be needed yet.

With $500+ of the 630 being just for lobor.

But what should the price have been though?

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After doing some further research on the forum I think I got SHAFTED!!!!

I ran into a post that said $530 was normal with $350 in lobor and

$150 for parts for a new clutch change.

And no the price was not for brakes too, those are coming from the

same place I got tires at Les Schwabb.

But the $1087 clutch price comes from ATCO Transmission.

There better be a good reason for this :mad:

I'll update ya in the morning,

Hot DARN IT I BETTER BE SUPRISED WITH RACE PARTS AT THAT PRICE !

~Z~

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