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derk

Wow! My once-in-a-lifetime find!!!!!

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Wow.

You read stories about finding the Porsche in the barn, right?

Today I bought a 240Z from *California* that has been in storage since 1987. Best of all, bought it from a friend who bought it new.

Last plated in 87, this 71 240z still has the 87 California tags on it. Last turned over two years ago. Towed it to my place today and gave it a quick bath.

I will be seeking all of your wise counsel as I embark on bringing this one back from the dead. This is 100 percent original (window sticker in the glovebox!) and I am going to need a lot of help from you. Ordered the CD today and have Ward Humble's book on my lap.

What would you do first?

The exhaust is rotten. The tires are rotten but inflated. I need to be careful I don't just rip into this. But I could use your help!

Attached is the beauty after her first bath in 11 years.

Thanks!!!!

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What do you think? I have the air cleaner cover off. Looks complete except A/C quit 15 years ago.

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Dirty...some surface rust. Needs paint job. A couple of rust spots is all I have found so far. I will photograph and ask for advice from ya'll.

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Jeez, looks like a great find. Looks pretty darn good after a bath!

First thing is to do a complete mechanical check up. Don't worry about taking things apart until you know for sure what needs to be repaired an what can wait till the project is closer to completion.

One thing I would do is a compression check to verify there are no internal problems. Next on the agenda would be a thorough check of the brake system, including bleeding the system. I would suggest checking to make sure you have no leaks, an have no stuck pistons, and the pads/shoes are useable.

Second thing to do would be a complete tune-up of the engine. Plugs, wires, points, cap, condensor, possibly coil. I would at least spray a bit of carb cleaner in the carbs to make sure you have no bad gum deposits. If you haven't already you should also change the fuel filter and air filter. I would also suggest changing all the fluids, engine oil, filter, transmissions fluid and the rear diff lube.

Start slow, don't rush into a big tear down, work on one problem area at a time and you will be much better off in the long run.

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I am getting lots of advice on the engine, how to make sure it's not seized. Of course, with no battery in it, people are suggesting a couple of squirts of wd-40 in each spark plug hole, some regular oil...some Marvel Mystery Oil (?) and everything else under the sun.

Obviously I want to crank it manually to get some motion in there I think....what do you suggest?

THe exhaust looks shot from front to back...any good sources for this? Like to keep it close to stock unless you experts think otherwise.

Not finding a lot of rust...some but not a lot. I will take some pics and ask for help.

Interior looks ok...dash is totally shot. I have another thread going on how to refurb. Thanks for the comments!

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You should definately crank it over a few times by hand to make sure nothing is seized. Take all the plugs out, put some penetrating oil or Marvel Mystery oil in there overnight before you do it. Take off the coil wire before you do anything! When you have turned it over a few times by hand, if it spins fairly free and has no strange noises, get in a hit the key and spin it over with the starter. With the coil wire off it will not start. Check to make sure you have oil pressure before you hook up the coil wire. You don't want it to fire if you have no oil pressure, you will seize it or spin a bearing. If everything checks out OK, hook up the coil wire and then see if it will start.

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Wow, she looks so damn sexy after her bath!! Great find! Good luck on crancking her up, I would like to see more pics of her rebirth. Keep em coming..

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DAMN NICE FIND!!!:love:

1st Thing I would do after A find like that is buy A loto ticket.LOL

Now as the car gose. So far I would do as the others have said. Only I would just get new brakes all around and new rubber brake lines @ the same time. They go bad fast just sitting. Why risk it?

The other thing would be order A master type kit with all the rubber bushings. Take this kit with the car and drop it off @ A shop. Get the labor cost up front. go home have A beer & know its money well spent. You wont know it was the same car when you pick it up. O ya the shop wont be happy when you go ta pick it up. But you will be.

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Darn You!!! I hate you and you're happy little perfect luck!!!

Where's that sharp knife I have???:dead:

No seriously, Good for you man. That's a great find. Good luck with the project and getting her turned over. I'm with everybody else Marvel in the cylinders overnight turn by hand, turn by key, fire it up!

Now here's something no ones mentioned but make sure all your fluids are there. Fresh coolant, fresh oil in the crankcase. Check/ replace hose cause you don't want those things blowing up and spraying gas/ oil/ coolant in the driveway. Don't just try to hurry up and see if it runs. Take your time and always think safety first!

You've got quite the canvas, what are your plans Picasso?

:classic:

Nate

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("Any thoughts on where to get a new exhaust system at a reasonable price?")

I would say look in the paper and find A car show. Go there and talk with some of the people with the nicer rides. They will point you to A good shop.

Dont let some hack put A clamp togather set-up under there. Go stainless welded. You will be much better off in the long term with this.

Thats my .02 on that.

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:classic: :classic: :classic: :classic: :classic:

There is, in Australia, an old saying that would apply to a situation like this and it is:-

.....YOU LUCKY BAR STEWARD...... (or words to that effect)

Try to resist the temptation to "rip" into it:finger:

But mechanically, as mentioned, drain/change all the fluids, flush out the cooling system, re-fill the engine with a good quality but cheap oil (to be discarded after a few days running), change all the filters, drain and flush the brake/clutch fluid with new fluid.

I would consider removing the cam cover when adding the fresh oil so you could pour it all over the cam gear and down the cam chain tunnel.

Jeez I wish I could be there to see it come alive again!:cry:

If the engine number is matching the ID plate then you really do have a gem. :love:

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Derk, You are a CRUEL, CRUEL PERSON. Not only do you TELL us about your find, you SEND US PHOTOS OF IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What with all the suggestions you 've already had, I can't think of anything to add.

I reckon every one of us envies you your find.

Gonna go and check out some old farm sheds Bye.

1 Bravo 6

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My new z came with this black metal louver thing on the rear window. Is it original and worth saving? Lock on one side is gone.

Not sure if original equipment or not.

Opinions?

Also that trim piece around the license... rusty. All surface. Repair or replace? And what did the original look like?

Thanks!

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Use the search function, you should find a couple posts about the correct color for the rear taillight panel.

As far as the window louvre, it is most likely an aftermarket add on. Some dealers offered them as an add on in the early years. I have heard many complaints over the aluminum louvres rattling and making a lot of noise. Yours will definately need the other lock or it will drive you crazy with all the noise. You can now get them in plastic or ABS that might not be better. I have no experience them, so I'm just going by what people who have had them have said. :ermm:

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BRIEFLY AND SUCCINCTLY:

Don't go tearing it up and replacing everything just because it's old. Many times all they need is a little TLC and a little lubrication to get them up. Then address any problems that come up and check the whole system out.

I would do all SAFETY items first. i.e. tires, brakes, steering, lights. Then get into the engine. Reasoning is that you KNOW you can fix the engine, the other items are what you need to go CHECK how the car runs.

In the interior, carefully lift all the carpeting and examine the floorboards. Hold off on removing door panels and plastic panels. Check later if floor shows some problems.

2¢

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Got the plugs out so far and put some Mystery oil in there for an overnight soak. Then plan on dropping the fluids and seeing what I have.

What think about the gas tank? Likely sat with old gas for 13 years or so.

Thinking dropping it and replacing the hoses, et al, but would like some advice. Definately need to get the crummy gas outta there.

Radiator looks rusty on outside as does the cooler in front of it.

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Derk,

I have to congratulate your fantastic find. Well you have done step one already and that is give that badass a bath, spit shine and clean that interior!! Suck down a couple beers and enjoy the smile!! Then on to the next step.

I have owned 4 Z cars in total and everyone I have purchased has sat for longer than any relationship I have ever been in. After cleaning them up and proving the car doesn't look as bad as it did..... I start the hunt. I never worry about starting the car first. I initially check to see that the motor isn;t seized. The one in my 260 was. If so, as stated some MArvel MYstery oil or even ATF down the plugs will work to unlock the motor. A half inch breaker bar on the balancer nut after the fluid has been sitting over a day or two should do the trick.

Give a visual check on all the electrical you can. inside and out. YOu have the benefit of knowing the previous owner so he can comment on any quirks it had, however you can't talk to the mice that may be been living in it while in storage.

you commented on the tank having gas in it for 13 years. I would Drain and drop that thing!! you most likely have some sort of sludgy kerosene in there and as soon as you try and start that car, you will pull that **** through the pump in the tank, on to the filter and whatever is left on to the carbs!!! Once you drain the tank, take it to have it checked for internal rust. with Fuel in there for 13 years, there is going to be condensation from the temp changes in the barn so hello rust. If the tank needs repair now is the time to do it. check all the fuel lines for signs of rot. Mine on the 260 rotted at the firewall. My car was sitting since 1985 =(.

Clean the carbs, & change the fuel filter! I say this is critical cause any sort of debris you suck from the tank to the carbs is gonna give you a WORLD of frustration with inconsistant running and stalling. After I had the tank reinstalled and the pump cleaned and what not, I would take the fuel delivery line and put it in a gas can, remove the coil wire, and crank the motor. let the fuel pulse out into the can so you can flush the fuel lines a bit and check for debris.

Before you drive the car, check all the brakes, rubber and steel hoses. Pull the rear wheels off and check for leaky wheel cylinders.

Honestly I could go on, however my best advice is to give the car a THOROUGH once over before you get going. I had my first Z car (78 280) when I turned 20 and was sooooo excited. I cranked it over and it started and was driving as soon as I could. 6 pressure regulaters later from the crap in the tank, brake lines, water pump, and a host of not serious issues, but frustrating had me on the side of the road enough times to learn.

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some things I did forget to mention, I see in the engine pic, that there seems to be some debris on the bottom of the rad support (unless that is ground below it). If there is leaves and twigs and such, get out the air compressor and blow all that out. A cream puff on the outside will not hide moisture damage on a car that has not been moving for a while. If there was a battery in the car ever since, check the battery tray and underneath it on the firewall as the battery loves to rot Z cars there. Give a good look into the cowl too. If you can, remove the wipers and the phillips screws and take off the cowl. That is a great place for leaves to collect and water never seems to drain from there. It can rot very easily in there as the leaves decompose. The inner fender wells are a wonderful place for rust to show it;s ugly head. In that area, it's wise to get out the screwdriver and start poking around. Rust happens underneath the undercoating first. Also do the same when you climb underneath the car to check the floors and under the rockers. I would also remove the seats and peel up the carpet to check the floors and toe boards as well.

This is really going to give a good idea of where to start as to what repairs need to be done to save your new baby!!

let me congratulate you on a nice looking car though!! Having four of these, I am never surprised where the rust hides itself.

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Thanks for the tips all.

The only rust I can find (aside from surface rust) is this on the driver's side door jamb and this on the rear hatch area.

Any thoughts?

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Thanks for the tips all.

That's the ground under there.

The only rust I can find (aside from surface rust) is this on the driver's side door jamb

Any thoughts?

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