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bloxman

Fabricated Heat shield for weber triples

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Everything I have read says the DCOE's don't like heat.

So I must have measured a thousand different things, like carbs to brake lines,and brake booster to rear carb, carbs to top of headers.

But..somehow I managed to take the filter off my breather pipe,to do the measuring ;so now I need to cut the breather down and to locate the filter closer to the block.

Good Idea / Bad Idea?

In addition to my Z, I have a Jensen Healey with a pair of zenith Strombergs, they leak sort of spontaniously, and a surprising volume.

I don't know if Webers have any annoying habits that can get ya killed so..

I designed the shield to slope down toward the radiator and away from the carbs and into a little trough which would guide any stray gasoline out between rad and a/c compressor.

Enviromental disaster I know, but better than being blowed up!

The Webers run cool now ,if I could only figure what I'm doing wrong in tuning ....

Bloxman

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Hey Blox,

with the engine running, leaking fuel draining between the radiator and the ac compressor will be dumped right into your cooling fan, slapping it into a very fine mist and blowing it all over your dizzy and exhaust manifold!

Put a lip on the end and a nipple for a hose and route the drainage under the car out of any ambient airstreams...

Will

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Don't forget the insulators between carbs and manifold. They are for heat and vibration dampening. As for tuning a wideband O2 gauge and sensor like an AEM UEGO Gauge http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AVM%2D30%2D4100&N=700+308464+115&autoview=sku works wonders to pinpointing your tuning needs.

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Everything I have read says the DCOE's don't like heat.

If underhood heat is a problem for the carb.'s - - I would not have used a distribution block - that routes fuel to the individual carb.'s with no return. The fuel in the lines from the distrubution block, as well as the fuel in the floats has a good chance of picking up a lot of heat.

I would have used a fuel pressure regulator - then pumped fuel to the rear carb and on through it - to the center and on through it, then to to front carb and through it to a return line. This effectively keeps the fuel in the lines and going to the carb.'s cooler.

FWIW,

Carl B.

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I'm happier than a fat kid in a candy shop!!! I just picked up a triple set of 40 DCOE Webers on a Cannon Manifold With Linkage for only $500!!!

And while I'm getting ready for delivery, I found this for any and all who are interested.

http://www.racetep.com/webtechpage.html

All of Webers technical info is all this page. A MUST READ for all triple newbies.

Dave.

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I hooked my triple webers directly from the mechanical fuel pump(which is supplied by the original electric pump on my 73). Originally I installed the pressure regulator between the mechanical pump and the carbs, but then I tried eliminating the regulator and hooked into the original fuel return line, and didn't have any problems supplying enough fuel to the carbs(although I don't have a cam, so possibly if I had a high performance cam I might have needed more pressure than the gas return line alone would allow). I also insulated all the fuel lines around the engine compartment and fabricated a large heat shield. Definitely no vaporization problems. Victor.

ps I was able to jet the webers enough to make them serviceable, but never could get them to run lean enough. Just too much carb for my un-modified low performance engine. Switched back to stock(actually roundtops) carbs with no performance loss.

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