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Fighting Rust...Help


zcarmannn

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and this is something I can just put onto bare sanded clean metal, and then topcoat with a primer, and then paint>>??

I don't work for Zero Rust, Bruce does. But it's good stuff. Read.......

Zero Rust is easy to use and can be applied over fully or marginally prepared surfaces. Sandblasting is not a requirement and top coating is completely optional.

http://www.zerorust.com/

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Zero Rust also recommends the use of a "properly fitted organic vapor/particulate respirator approved by NIOSH/MSHA for protection" from the MSDS for Zero Rust.

Which is the same type of precaution for POR and should be applied to ANY type of paint/protectant of this nature.

Both POR and Zero Rust are rust-encapsulators. You'll find testimonials for both abound here and other websites. Same with ease of use, both have their proponents.

One note, while Zero Rust specifically states that it is NOT for submersion applications, POR on the other hand does not exclude that option.

There is also another product called Rust Bullet that makes the claim that it dehydrates the rust and therefore stops the rust. It's "one step" process is actually two coatings done no less than two hours apart. Not necessarily a negative, but definitely something to consider. Additionally it states that if the material is scraped or breached to the metal that rust will re-occur. That would seem to be a given of any of the products above.

Probably the biggest first question for you to resolve is money. How much are you willing to expend and just how much of the car are you planning on protecting. Then check for availability of the material you choose.

Ask questions here, you may find all the help you need from people that have used one or the other or all of the products.

E

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well, thanks these are all great suggestions.

as far as money, and or time. I am 38 years old, and have a lot of time ahead of me, and for money, well, there I am not as well off as I am in age.

I would only need the por, or other product t cover the exterior of the hood, and both doors. doesn’t sound like a lot of change

$$ to me.

back to my other question, say that 65% of the hood is surface rusted, should i sand off 100

5 of the paint, and por the whole thing?

or is it better to leave what is good, and fix what is bad? it may all end up rusting if I don’t do the whole thing now. I would rather do it all once than 1/2 now, and 1/2 in a few years from now.

but, I am open to other peoples trial and errors. I want to learn from you alls mistakes, and I hope you can learn from mine.

thanks, from NY.

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I would go and get the hood dipped and then apply por on the inside only, remember things rust from the inside out so if you have rust on the outside you can bet there will be rust on the inside which will just keep on going unless you treat it. If you do it this way you can guarantee that you won't need to do it again, I can't stress how important it is to get it right first time around you'll save $$ in the long run. If you use por make sure you don't get any runs in the job as it's really hard to sand once dried. Because of this sanding hardship it's mostly used just to treat the really rusty areas and not whole panels. I did my whole car in the stuff with the addition of runs and it has given me headaches on the large flat panel areas. Just use a good quality 2k paint for the outside panels.

Por really comes in handy when you are putting it over areas that still have rust on them and it states in the tech sheet that it will bond better to a lightly rusted surface than perfectly clean metal. If you use por make sure you buy por tie coat to go over the top of the por that way you won't have to sand the por at all.

If I could turn back time I wouldn't have done all the outside panel areas on my car, I'd just have used 2k paint and only have done small areas with por, this would have saved me a lot of time and $$$. If you dip the panels you will need to lay it flat and upside down while you use a degreraser gun to spray paint in the holes. You lay it flat and upside down so the paint falls on the top & bottom surfaces.

Hope this helps

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some one told me not to do the whole car with these things.

I have rust (surface) on the hood and a tad on both doors.

I already used a palm sander, and took off the rust from these sections.

should I take off all the paint, even if it is not rusty, or am I just creating more rust opportunities?

and can I put POR on these surfaces first, then top coat with the desired paint color? or is there a better way to do this. I cant sand blast for $ reasons.

thanks

Dont Hi-jack the thread . Pose your own .

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and this is something I can just put onto bare sanded clean metal, and then topcoat with a primer, and then paint>>??

NO , After POR paint , if prepared properly , cures. Regular paint or anything else will not adhere. POR is fantastic for your floors and undercarriage and panel's that are not to be finished . It seals the metal and will stop the rust. but only if you follow the directions exactly. Mariene Clean followed with Metal ready. Then POR paint. You can paint over the POR , if you do so while it is still tacky to the touch. Other than that either sand it or prime with Ti coat primer. Then you are good to go. POR paint cures so hard it is difficult to sand and is like sanding porcelain . Use it for rust repair . On the exterior of the car , sand off the surface to clean metal and prime with epoxy self etching primer then primer and paint. Bondo Is NOT a rust preventive. It is porous and will allow moisture to continue to rust the metal. Gary

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NO , You can paint over the POR , if you do so while it is still tacky to the touch. \

You can only "spray" a light mist of 2k primer over the por while it is still tacky, a normal thinckness coat will stop the por drying properly and the use of most other paints will stuff the coat as well.

Using the metal ready is a pretty weird thing to do as you have to soak the area treated with water once finished, it starts to get a little surface rust after the water has dried.

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Using the metal ready is a pretty weird thing to do as you have to soak the area treated with water once finished, it starts to get a little surface rust after the water has dried.

True, the Metal Prep, as we call it, needs to be neutralised with clean water once it has done its' job.

I find that if you wipe the surface well and dry with paper towels and spray liberally with metholated spirits [de-natured alcohol] you can evict the moisture quicksmart.

I use a pump pack to squirt and spray the metho into all the nooks and crannies to displace any moisture.

Follow that with compressed air [through a water trap] to force dry the metho.

Warm to hot weather is great since the metho will evaporate very quickly on its own.

Then a thorough wipe over with Prepsol [silicon Off, De-greaser etc.] and the yellow/tan colour comes right off and the metal is squeaky clean for etch primer.

All this is well and good, but the environment at the time must be warm and dry.

Cool or humid and you are going to have a battle to get it right:angry:

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