kats

Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

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Kats,

I finally took a picture of my clear hatch glass.

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Thank you so much Alan . The picture which you showed is what I was expected. And I have seen it in a book   yes !

So now I tend to think the one would be earlier than the other one . I guess my seven holes type would be earlier,  but still not for sure . I thought due to the battle was getting harder and harder towards the end of GTR ‘ s paradise, factory team tried for more power with those more advanced / retardant timing selections . So in the end , they would have made eleven holes .

Kats

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Chris , you got the one ! ! I am so impressed with it . And front too ?

Front  clear glass is a mandatory item for Z432-R . 

Kats

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Today I arrived home from 1800km round trip in four days . I took my ZG for this journey, I must say “ ZG is the best partner for grand touring .  If you have a properly tuned L24 with G-Nose , you would not want to have one more camshaft , nor one more carburetor. 😁 

A fuel consumption is way better than Z432 . This time my ZG scored 13km per litter (30 mile per gallon ) when doing 100km/h (60m/h ) Highway driving .

Quiet , stable , and powerful. My non-restored ZG still can go anytime anywhere . Hub caps stick to the wheels always !

 Kats

PS : I have a question , is this cigarette lighter cooperated with an illumination also equipped for export models after Sep 1971 ?  

 Fairlady 240ZL / 240ZG and Z432 have the illuminated lighter .

 

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Edited by kats
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During the trip to my mother’s home , I dropped at Mr. Kawashima ‘s factory to help his work for another ZG which has been purchased recently by my colleague , senior 787 captain.

His ZG is almost identical to my ZG , he also loves stock . So as much as possible, he want his car to be original.

I helped the restoration of its 8 track system and , auto antenna .

The antenna mast was broken like most of the car . Mr.Kawashima did a great job .

He snapped of the tip then drilled a hole to be re- connected to the top rod . 

Also he drilled out the old remaining plastic from the top mast end , then he connected the plastic wire with the end by JB weld  and punched it.

Please see the video , I hope this can help someone who has a broken antenna mast .

Kats

 

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Thanks Blue , I just looked at this ,  the term REPAIR would apply to fuel tanks / radiators / heater cores etc . 

But we don’t have a choice today , so we did it .

Kats

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Edited by kats

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16 hours ago, 26th-Z said:

Kats,

I finally took a picture of my clear hatch glass.

IMG_9661.JPG

Hi Chris, your glass was $ 30.88 in late 1969 or early 1970 .

And labor time was 2.0 hours .

it is interesting to see the glass tinted but no defroster was the most expensive. 

Kats

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@kats just wanted to say thank you for sharing that 8- track repair information. If I manage to figure out how to restore these Hitachi TM-1081ZB(S). I'll be sure to share a write up.

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Thanks I have that manual, but I had difficulty understanding it. Perhaps because I don't have the same background as you do. I'll be sure to reach out to you. I am waiting on the radio chassis to come back from re-plating. Then I have to find my reference pics of when I took it apart. Which you can find here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AvuUP6gMXZW9qMKL7

I started with this radio because it was damaged in the post (chassis got bent) and it chipped a part of the PCB off, which I was wondering how to best repair. It still works but I have trouble with the signal seek function. I figure if I mess this 1 up, at least it was already damaged, but given the value of these radios now I want to fix it properly. 🙂

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Gav240z said:

Thanks I have that manual, but I had difficulty understanding it. Perhaps because I don't have the same background as you do. I'll be sure to reach out to you. I am waiting on the radio chassis to come back from re-plating. Then I have to find my reference pics of when I took it apart. Which you can find here.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AvuUP6gMXZW9qMKL7

I started with this radio because it was damaged in the post (chassis got bent) and it chipped a part of the PCB off, which I was wondering how to best repair. It still works but I have trouble with the signal seek function. I figure if I mess this 1 up, at least it was already damaged, but given the value of these radios now I want to fix it properly. 🙂

Dont want to hijack Kat's thread here. We can have a further discussion in another place. just a few inputs here:
I can see that chipped part contains a piece of PCB track which is now broken.
You can simply replace / "bridge" it with a wire soldered to two corresponding points on the PCB to complete the track again. Those old PCB's are always single or double layer only, so easy to fix broken tracks. You can see on page 7 of the previously posted schematics where the tracks go. But i have to admit those old schematics are a bit tricky sometimes 🙂

Another tip (probably solves your problem) is to replace all the electrolytic capacitors (All that have a + and - symbols in the schematics): They contain an electrolytic fluid which dries out after several years and can cause a lot of weird "scratching" noises and other faults. Also marked as "electrolytic" in the parts list on Page 10. Replace all of them and you will have a lot of electronic gremlins elmininated, and / or expanded the lifetime of the unit for at least another 5 to 10 years. Make sure to use the same specified parts as listed in the parts list or marked on the parts. I recommand to use at least 85°C temperature rated components, even better 105°C capaciters. Even if the radio never gets that hot it will have a longer lifespan and the price difference is only a few cents.

Other than that i can't see a lot of problematic parts. Except maybe the mechanical sliders / Switches, which are easy to replace or clean with a specific cleaner spray (using cheap contact spray or WD40 may solve noise issues on the sliders and mechanical potentiometers for a short period, but will significant decrease the lifespan of the component in long term view, as those cheap / wrong sprays may attack the coal-contacts).

Edited by JDMjunkies.ch
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On 6/12/2019 at 6:22 AM, JDMjunkies.ch said:

Dont want to hijack Kat's thread here. We can have a further discussion in another place. just a few inputs here:
I can see that chipped part contains a piece of PCB track which is now broken.
You can simply replace / "bridge" it with a wire soldered to two corresponding points on the PCB to complete the track again. Those old PCB's are always single or double layer only, so easy to fix broken tracks. You can see on page 7 of the previously posted schematics where the tracks go. But i have to admit those old schematics are a bit tricky sometimes 🙂

Another tip (probably solves your problem) is to replace all the electrolytic capacitors (All that have a + and - symbols in the schematics): They contain an electrolytic fluid which dries out after several years and can cause a lot of weird "scratching" noises and other faults. Also marked as "electrolytic" in the parts list on Page 10. Replace all of them and you will have a lot of electronic gremlins elmininated, and / or expanded the lifetime of the unit for at least another 5 to 10 years. Make sure to use the same specified parts as listed in the parts list or marked on the parts. I recommand to use at least 85°C temperature rated components, even better 105°C capaciters. Even if the radio never gets that hot it will have a longer lifespan and the price difference is only a few cents.

Other than that i can't see a lot of problematic parts. Except maybe the mechanical sliders / Switches, which are easy to replace or clean with a specific cleaner spray (using cheap contact spray or WD40 may solve noise issues on the sliders and mechanical potentiometers for a short period, but will significant decrease the lifespan of the component in long term view, as those cheap / wrong sprays may attack the coal-contacts).

Thank you so much for providing the depth of information of repairs, how did you get the manual dated 1970 ! It is amazing!

Kats

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Here is my 03/1970 blue 240Z radio operation movie . You can see the auto antenna switch is something weak . I need to clean the metal where it contacts.

My radio is TM-1081ZA , the operation pilot lamp is red , while 1081ZB is green .

What else is different? The operation guide is blue for 1081ZA but I don’t have the one , so I bought a red one for 1081ZB from Motorsport Auto .  

Maybe some internal mechanism and /or parts could be different .

Kats

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On 6/5/2019 at 6:19 AM, kats said:

Pictures for the comparison of the CST-113ZA and the 2000Z .

1

I have the 2000Z model, Kats.  Could use a new faceplate or I'm going to have to repair it.

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On 6/16/2019 at 10:39 AM, kats said:

Here is my 03/1970 blue 240Z radio operation movie . You can see the auto antenna switch is something weak . I need to clean the metal where it contacts.

My radio is TM-1081ZA , the operation pilot lamp is red , while 1081ZB is green .

What else is different? The operation guide is blue for 1081ZA but I don’t have the one , so I bought a red one for 1081ZB from Motorsport Auto .  

Maybe some internal mechanism and /or parts could be different .

 

Hey Kats,

I have both ZA and ZB radio's and noticed the red vs green light. I believe the ZA radio I got came out of a very early 240z. You car is the first I've seen with working red light. I think it may have applied to very early build date cars. The rest of mine are all Green.

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Hi Chris, thanks for the pictures , you have the 2000Z which was STD for Fairlady 240Z series ( 240Z / 240ZL / 240ZG ) and Z432 from Oct 1971 .

Please note 2000Z has a green light and DX button while 113ZA ( early model for Fairlady ZL and Z432 ) has a red light but no - DX button . 

And 2000Z has a rubber cap for the auto antenna switch which is very tiny toggle knob while 113ZA has a solid plastic switch knob which can be seen in 

KM-1520ZC for 1972 or later US 240Z .

( but the switch itself is different , 113ZA ‘s  switch box is much smaller than the one on 1520ZC .)

I am thinking the reason why 2000Z has a tiny knob and plastic cap is , the early solid plastic knob for 113ZA has tendency to scratch the face plate if the face plate is loosen to the downward even the amount is just a little bit  . The gap between the knob and the opening of the face plate for the switch is very limited.

You must be for sure the face plate is installed correctly so that the solid plastic knob can be moved freely to the both sides .

Not only the face plate, you need to install the instrument finisher panel “ just right “ .

2000Z ‘s tiny knob doesn’t have such a problem at all .

But the solid plastic knob was re- used from late 1971 for the US 240Z , that is my home work now ! 

My orange 12/1971 240Z has KM-1520ZC

so I will see if there is something improvement for the installation of the radio and / or other related stuff.

Kats

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My DIY repair of the face plate , not perfect but I think it is OK for me .

I really love Cray putty which is very easy to create shapes when I need .

Kats

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Edited by kats
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1 hour ago, Gav240z said:

Hey Kats,

I have both ZA and ZB radio's and noticed the red vs green light. I believe the ZA radio I got came out of a very early 240z. You car is the first I've seen with working red light. I think it may have applied to very early build date cars. The rest of mine are all Green.

Hi Gavin , you have ZA and ZB ! You can tell us the difference between the two of them especially inside of its mechanism.

Thanks for sharing the pictures of your ZB ,  it is really fun to see . We love old mechanics .

Kats

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I haven't looked inside the 2 radios to compare yet, someday I will.

However I thought you'd appreciate these pics of a NOS radio I wanted to buy on eBay. But someone else outbid me.

https://goo.gl/photos/sXHcEMFqGQPd3K5ZA

It shows the original box/booklet and condition of the radio is superb. A true treasure.

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Yes, I have the small switch with the rubber gasket.  Love your clay repair, Kats.  That's exactly what I'm going to do to my face plate.

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for my 1972 FZL I have the face plate and the small switch with the rubber gasket, but not the unit. I plan to mock up a non working unit behind the face plate. So at least it looks original. I gave mine a bit of a clean and respray with Landau black SEM paint and a silver sharpie. 

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Hi Gavin , what a miracle it is ! How much was that on winning bid ? I am scared to hear that. That is for the first time I have ever seen in that condition,  simply amazing.

Hi scotta , you have the face plate and yours is much much better looking than mine , you did touched it up very well .

Here is a tip of CST-2000ZD , this model was applied from mid 1973 but this could be interchangeable with an earlier model.

This 2000ZD has just a little different mounting bracket on the each sides which can be modified or removed easily.

You can fit your 2000Z face plate right on to the 2000ZD without any modification.

So you have good chances to find nice one if you look and extend the search widely up to 1978 in Fairlady Z series .

I am now feeling I need to do it again for better result . 

Kats

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arigatou gozaimasu Kats

Please mail me if you see one on Yahoo Japan or elsewhere

Edited by scotta
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1 hour ago, kats said:

Hi Gavin , what a miracle it is ! How much was that on winning bid ? I am scared to hear that. That is for the first time I have ever seen in that condition,  simply amazing.

I think it sold for around $1,500 USD a couple of years ago. Not a bad price really, considering what some are asking for second hand ones these days.

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