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bluezcowboy

installing new cam need tool

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    Santa brought me a stage II cam to go with my triple webers (already installed) Just wondering if anyone in the eastern Washington area has a valve spring compression tool I could borrow or rent before I have to lay out more $$$ for somthing I will probable use 1 time.

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    You can borrow them from Schucks parts stores. When I did mine it was free as long as I returned it within 24 hours. Other parts stores have similar programs.

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    You do not need to use a valve spring compressor when changing a cam. Rotate the cam so that the lobe is off the follower and using a large screwdriver wedge between the cam (the un-ground surface) and the valve spring retainer. Pull the follower out and repeat eleven more times. It helps if you increase the lash as much as possible beforehand.

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    You do not need to use a valve spring compressor when changing a cam.
    Oops! Good call, I totally blew past that part.

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    Isn't it true that you need new rockers for the new cam or is that just a sales pitch?

    Jim

    It’s always been recommended that you use new or reconditioned cam followers [rockers] when installing a new cam. New Nissan cam followers are some $33 each but Delta Cams re-mans are $4.50 each (with exchange).

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    That's great to know that they can be had that inexpensively. I always cringed at the idea of $14/ea.

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    The new cam was bought from MSA as a kit which includes followers,lash pads and springs. I assume heavier springs for the higher lift cam

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    Santa was very good to you then! Just wanted to make sure that you weren't going to have a bad day with the new cam.

    FWIW/ You can make a valve spring compressor pretty cheap. It's another story when you are removing the valves instead of compressing them. It's much easier and faster to make/use a bench tool. The inner springs make things a little complicated when trying to get the collets out/in. (If you try and compress by gripping the springs)

    post-12438-1415079929739_thumb.jpg

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    If you have new springs then you should install them. You may also want to install smaller valve stem seals, as the Stage II is right at about the limit for room between the Schneider valve spring retainers and the stock valve seals. You can use seals from a Ford 2.9L V6 and they're a better material plus they're $20 at any corner auto parts store. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=90825

    I don't want to sound like a jerk so please don't take this the wrong way, but I'd get a stock cam reground from Delta before I installed that Schneider you have. It's too small for triples in my opinion and my opinion is reasonably well versed, being that I have a LARGER cam which I also feel is too small for triples, mine is about the size of the Stage IV. I'd look for something in the .500/300 range. Delta will regrind you a cam for $65.

    If you're going to have to do the lash pad thing, might as well do it with a cam that's the right size for your application.

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    Are you going to take the head off? The reason I ask is because I would be worried about dropping a valve into the cyclinder. Once you pull the retainer clips there is nothing holding the valve up. If the piston is down in the cyclinder then wont your valve slip out of reach? I put my Stage 2 schnider cam on with the head off. I got it from MSA also... I've been very happy with the kit, but I don't have tripples, im running SU's.

    As far as the rockers go... I would deffinatly have them reground. the old cam has made very small wear patterns in the rocker pad and if you don't have them resurfaced then the old wear pattern will wear out your new cam in no time at all. At least thats what I have been told countless times. better safe than sorry.

    Spring compressors! the clamp kind suck... I speak from experiance. I spent hours trying to take off the springs with the stupid clamp kind of compressor. After I got them off I took a trip down to MSA and I told Sal how much trouble I was having with my valve springs. Sal was nice enough to lend me his "leverage" spring compressor. I was awesome. I put all of my springs back in 45 minutes. JimmyZ Made a great tool, but instead of bolting it to the bench just turn thoes long amrs into hooks that hook around the cam shaft, then you can use the leverage off the cam shaft. It looks just like JimmyZ's design but with hooks instead of table bolts.

    Good luck and let me know if you do it with the head on the block, cause I wanna know how you did it without loosing a valve into the the block. I heard that you could use air pressure to keep the valve seated but Im not sure how that could work.

    Rock on Z people! Matt-

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    OPB: zeiss150

    Sal was nice enough to lend me his "leverage" spring compressor. It was awesome.

    I couldn't agree more. Here's a pic of my "leverage" compressor. It's a K-D 3087.

    Edit: Here's one on eBay - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KD-Tools-Valve-Spring-Compressor-KDT3087_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ013QQitemZ230070894882QQrdZ1

    post-10534-14150799300255_thumb.jpg

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    You can do it with the head on. you put some cotton rope in the spark plug hole and just bar the piston up that will hold the valves in place

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    The other method is to obtain the KD Spark Plug hole adapter. Threaded fitting which screws into the spark plug hole and accepts a threaded adapter for an air hose. Simply put the cylinder at top dead center, fire up the air compressor and use the 100+ pounds of air pressure to hold the valves up, while changing the springs.

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    The other method is to obtain the KD Spark Plug hole adapter. Threaded fitting which screws into the spark plug hole and accepts a threaded adapter for an air hose. Simply put the cylinder at top dead center, fire up the air compressor and use the 100+ pounds of air pressure to hold the valves up, while changing the springs.

    It’s a lot easier if you park the piston at bottom dead center and then pressurize the cylinder. Finding exact top dead center without bolting a timing wheel to the harmonic damper is very difficult.

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