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red_dog007

Triple Carb

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Damn this really sucks, with some of the info in this thread I had to add that these 40's are a PIA to get right, so if you dont have alot of exp with tripples you might wanna look around for someone that does, and GOOD LUCK, it's a dieing art. I have the 40's on my l26, bored 30 mild cam headers exhaust and all, and like everyone is saying, they are alittle rough at low rpms, but smooth at high revs, I have synch and resynch and tried alot of different setups but just dyno'd mine and could only produce 127 max whp and 130 max torque, air to fuel in 12 to 14 range.

If your air and fuel are between 12-14:1 that's the important thing. You could maybe tighten up the range a little bit, but I don't see how that is going to make a huge difference in power. Maybe there is another reason you aren't making more power. Maybe you need different timing, a bigger cam, more compression, bigger Webers, etc. Did you dyno it before the Webers and after? Personally I don't think 40's make very much power over SU's, as I stated before...

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After spending more money than I admitted to my wife, my 3.2L stroker w/44mm Mikunis got 314hp and 279#s torque@crank (5500-6800rpm) on the dyno last week. I should have it installed back in my 240 later this week. I'm looking to get about 250rwhp and 220# torque.

A big help in smoothing out the A/F ratios has been the purchase of a TWM fiberglass cold air box and a set of shorter horns. It was running at 13.7 across the board (2500-7000rpm). Now all I need to do is to cut/enlarge a hole in the radiator support for the 3-inch hose that will connect to the K&N filter.

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After spending more money than I admitted to my wife, my 3.2L stroker w/44mm Mikunis got 314hp and 279#s torque@crank (5500-6800rpm) on the dyno last week. I should have it installed back in my 240 later this week. I'm looking to get about 250rwhp and 220# torque.

A big help in smoothing out the A/F ratios has been the purchase of a TWM fiberglass cold air box and a set of shorter horns. It was running at 13.7 across the board (2500-7000rpm). Now all I need to do is to cut/enlarge a hole in the radiator support for the 3-inch hose that will connect to the K&N filter.

Wow, those are some nice numbers. When I stroke my L24, I hope to be making at least 200/200 at the wheels. In a 2300lb car, I think that those numbers will make me very happy and it will still be hell a fast.

Though I think that you will be making more numbers then that at the wheels. You usually only loss some 30hp from crank in a rwd setup.

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Gonna try and attach the dyno sheet , dont know if it will work I scanned it, but never had su's on this it was a package deal I bought after the 77's motor got trashed (son). Timing may very well be the problem, found yesterday that the elect fuel pump was out and only the mechanical was working, and it wasnt good , fuel pressure floating between 1.5 and 4 so fixing that first. and moved the timing to 12btdc and see what happens! it was at 22 from PO.

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I have just changed my set up from F16 to F15 Emulsion Tubes and it now runs a whole lot better at low revs and still seems to have the grunt when you give it the welly.

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Hpefully bigger and easier to read

On the timing issue you'll probably want full advance in the mid to high 30's. You can test this on the dyno and figure it out. If you have a timing light with an advance dial you can figure that out just by setting the light to say 36 degrees, revving the car up to 3000 rpm and then setting the timing to hit the 0 mark on the pulley. Then you can adjust it on the dyno to get it dialed in right where you want it.

I'm guessing it's the way that the rest of the motor is built that is holding you back. Timing might help to optimize what you've got and you might pick up a few hp, but I think you're going to need to step it up in the compression or cam area (or both) to see a bigger jump in hp.

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Jon what would you expect from say astock engine hp wise.

just got done retiming and readjusting carbs seems a lot better but who knows what the dyno will show, but hell at 45 dollars apoop for 2 runs that $^!# gets expensive

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About 120 whp would be what I would expect from what I've seen on the net, but I've never dyno'd anything. Never had the $$$ to spend on a dyno. You might consider a Gtech or other similar product as they will give you 0-60 and hp estimates. At least you can tell if your last modification helped or hurt.

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ok, also the gasket at the front for the air horns, are the air horns supposed to slip thru it, or up againt it or between the air ahorns and gaskets

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Here are the triple's I offer from OER ( FNA: SK Carburaters ) from Japan. They have some amazing attributes not offered by other carburaters.

These are true High performance, Race bred side draft carbi's.

Info can be seen at: www.zccjdm.com

post-7073-1415080104163_thumb.jpg

post-7073-14150801041805_thumb.jpg

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Here are the triple's I offer from OER ( FNA: SK Carburaters ) from Japan. They have some amazing attributes not offered by other carburaters.

These are true High performance, Race bred side draft carbi's.

Info can be seen at: www.zccjdm.com

No offense, but at those prices, go buy the webber stuff from http://www.racetep.com and put the rest of the money into the engine where it's needed most. I don't mean to be an a$$, but Kameari's prices are insane, I don't care how well known they are.

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No offense taken.

Actually the cost of the triples is not much different than you'd pay for lesser carbs.... 45mm Intake, manifold, linkage.. $2120 And these aren't Webers. These are true - race bred side draft carburaters that give more in design and function than a weber ever hoped to. You can get some things for less, but its just as most things, "you get what you pay for".

KAMEARI has no competition when it comes to their performance engine products. They don't crank out parts in high volume, they "specialize". It shows in the materials used (chromoly, Titanium, Molybdenum), finishing technics ( Tuftride, Magnesium Oxide coatings, Chromium Oxide journals, Counterbalancing ), and proven performance on the tracks of japan.... It has nothing to do with how popular their name is, its how well their part have performed in japan that has given them their name.

These parts are in a class of their own. These will add to the value of a vehicle, becuase they are so specialized. If I wanted to put the best performance parts on my car, These are the parts I'd use. ( and will !)

But of course its all up to an individuals opinions, and preferrences.

cheers,

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I completely understand your point and I fully believe you get what you pay for. I just think that most Z Car guys aren't going to build a $30,000 racer. Most, but I'm sure there's a few guys out there with deep pockets. I honestly hope I'm one of them one day and at that time I will be looking at KAMEARI parts for sure. Unfortunately though most guys with mostly stock setups for daily driving and occasional track use aren't going to spend the dough on such extravagant parts. BTW, the website looks great!

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For some items your right, their for a specific use, "Racing". Alot of these aren't to much more than some of the american made components. But allot are only offered by Kameari ( ex... Gear tensioner.) and I believe those items will sell fairly well.

I wish you the best in becoming one of those deep pocket few! ( heck i'm not either ). But in the meantime, if you'd like something for your Z, don't hesitate to drop me a line. My first priority is to help out fellow Z enthusiasts, and I'm going to try my best to make some special offers, and group buy's.

Best RegardZ,

Brian

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I had triple Mikuni 44s that ran great, but I wanted the low end torque too, so now I have triple TWM 45 throttle bodies. Tuning is much easier because all you need is your laptop. FI is much better than carbs and the throttle bodies look even better than my Mikunis.

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