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Electric fan or new fan clutch/shroud for my 240z?


Jayru

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  • 2 years later...

Car has a 160 degree thermostat, original plastic blade fan clutch and champion 3 row radiator. Still struggling with percolation during stop and go traffic in Panama. I have been advised to install electric fans with thermoswitch to tackle this. Will this be the final and concrete solution to my problem?

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 Will this be the final and concrete solution to your problem? No one here has a crystal ball as far as know and if they did they'd be looking for that unrusted barn find Z that most of us know is out there somewhere.

 The shrouded fan(s) would seem to be the best solution, IMO, but but there has been some discussion at HybridZ lately about upgrading the alternator when using double fans.

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If I was you I'd buy an infared no contact thermometer and check the temperature of different areas of your car. I do not think you have percolation issues with the fuel. I do not think heat is causing your ill running car. It gets hot where I live too and my car runs fine. Did you ever get a coolant temperature with it idling and the thermostat open?

You could get readings from the carbs, the cylinder head and the block, the coil, radiator etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07WZXK6PT/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWwp13NParams

Screenshot_20220105-163232_Samsung Internet.jpg

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

Shrouded fans?? I read in other forums about Spal fans? Can you point out which model and setup

 That shows my ignorance about electric fans. I've never dealt with them. Members here may have recommendations or check out the discussions over at HybridZ for advice. The only time I had an issue with overheating was solved by re-coring the rad and adding another row. When my fan clutch froze up I replaced it with a flex fan. Never a problem after that.

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Posted (edited)

He's got a California Datsun motor and that guy rips off his next door neighbors so I'm going out on a limb here but selling something to a guy in Panama is awfully suspect to me. I've been on here for at least 10 years and Alex has always had problems with his car.

He had found an experienced Datsun mechanic 6 months ago maybe? but apparently that relationship was short.

I'm carrying on a 3rd person conversation here because he doesn't do what we say that could help HIM. 

Anyway, God helps those who help themselves so maybe prayer is our or way of helping?

Edited by siteunseen
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Not at all site. I thought one of the valve seals was broken and changed both of them. Problem had nothing to do with the engine. Problem arises when car starts misfiring after long stop and go traffic. Too much heat in the manifold.

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I'd think an electric pump continually running fuel through but you need to sure it's an open flowing system. The return to the tank should be open allowing fuel to flow non stop. Fuel is cooling when it flows freely.

You say manifold heat? Have you thought of replacing that cast iron heat holding exhaust manifold with a low heat ceramic header? You'd need to research this but maybe get the OE manifold coated with ceramic. On second thought a MSA ceramic header would be easy and similar cost as removing the OE and having it coared. I've got them on mine and they do a fantastic job dissipating heat. My carbs are cool when I touch them.

The reason I'm on California Datsun is simple. He does half arse work and charges top dollar. Your coolant passages could be clogged up with years of calcium deposits. I've rebuilt 2 motors and those were all clogged up. The casting plugs come out before the block gets vatted, if it did get vatted before the rebuild.

 

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15 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

champion 3 row radiator. Still struggling with percolation during stop and go traffic in Panama.

Yeah thats a aluminium radiator.. i always drive over them and throw them as far away as i can!  What you need is a radiator with a copper core.

What is that with you guys and aluminum (Yeah, i left out the i... 😉 ) radiators?  they suck! Yes i know copper is expensive but it cools way better!  

take a 10" strip of aluminium and one of copper. (same thickness and width) hold them in your hand, i take the aluminium one.. and we hold a lighter under the end of it and look who can hold on to the piece of metal the longest! haha.. (more safe to do this in a vice and measure with a infrared thermometer 😉 ) 

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On 1/6/2022 at 7:29 AM, dutchzcarguy said:

Yeah thats a aluminium radiator.. i always drive over them and throw them as far away as i can!  What you need is a radiator with a copper core.

What is that with you guys and aluminum (Yeah, i left out the i... 😉 ) radiators?  they suck! Yes i know copper is expensive but it cools way better!  

take a 10" strip of aluminium and one of copper. (same thickness and width) hold them in your hand, i take the aluminium one.. and we hold a lighter under the end of it and look who can hold on to the piece of metal the longest! haha.. (more safe to do this in a vice and measure with a infrared thermometer 😉 ) 

Sure - copper conducts heat more efficiently than aluminum, but radiator efficiency involves more than just the metal used.  Tube diameter, surface area, airflow restriction - in some designs, aluminum allows you to optimize these parameters better than copper does.  To imply that all aluminum radiators are crap is a bit short-sighted - I've used an OE-style aluminum radiator in my Corvette for years, and it cools just fine.

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1 hour ago, foosman said:

I've used an OE-style aluminum radiator in my Corvette for years, and it cools just fine.

Yes, but in the corvette there is room for a big radiator and it was made for it.. this is not the case with the old datsuns..

Okay i was a bit harsh on the alu radiator, but i get a bit angry of the fact that they are praised to be such good (Chinese made) rad's and they are junk..  a good radiator for €169 is junk.. I use a copper original in my 240z and it's in there for decades..

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Ok as i said before my car has a champion 3 row radiator with 16lbs rad cap and original 1972 datsun plastic fan cluch with msa shroud. It also has the phenolic spacers between the SU rounded 3 screws and additional heat shield. How come some users here have tackled this heat problem without spending more than 500usd in electric fans, shroud , thermoswitch and alternator?

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2 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

16lbs rad cap

?? what is that.. you mean 1.6 ??  that  is 1.6/2 minus 10 percent is .72 kg is 720mbar pressure?? i don't know what you mean with 16Lbs..  1.6 pounds over pressure is much to low.. (mine has 1 or 1,2 kg = 1000 or 1200 mbar = 2,64 Lbs!  

(16 Lbs would be MUCH to high, your radiator can not hold 7,2 bar (ato)..  whatever... it will explode.. ) 

Also does the clutch from the fan work correct? if you give it a good pull it has to stop in quarter or less turn.. when hot/warm.. when cold it's about half a turn..

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Gasoline can vary greatly over the United states. I suspect even more so internationally.

You have tried a great many things but not always in a methodical manner. I too am unconvinced you don't have an internal issue

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 If the fan clutch appears to be working properly, I think ceramic coated headers may help. Cliff reports the carbs staying cool to the touch using ceramic headers. If it were mine, I'd also pull a freeze plug or two to check the coolant passages for corrosion and build up. No one knows knows if Cal. Datsun ever cleaned the coolant passages in the block? 

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27 minutes ago, dutchzcarguy said:

?? what is that.. you mean 1.6 ??  that  is 1.6/2 minus 10 percent is .72 kg is 720mbar pressure?? i don't know what you mean with 16Lbs..  1.6 pounds over pressure is much to low.. (mine has 1 or 1,2 kg = 1000 or 1200 mbar = 2,64 Lbs!  

(16 Lbs would be MUCH to high, your radiator can not hold 7,2 bar (ato)..  whatever... it will explode.. ) 

Also does the clutch from the fan work correct? if you give it a good pull it has to stop in quarter or less turn.. when hot/warm.. when cold it's about half a turn..

16 psi

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Hahaha... 😂  we in europe do not work with Lbs's or Psi's but even i know that are 2 different worlds, yes 16 Psi.. that's about right.. (little over 1 bar/ato.)  

Have you cleaned out the complete engine waterworks? maybe there is a lot of dirt/limestone in your coolingsystem.

 

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2 hours ago, dutchzcarguy said:

Hahaha... 😂  we in europe do not work with Lbs's or Psi's but even i know that are 2 different worlds, yes 16 Psi.. that's about right.. (little over 1 bar/ato.)  

Have you cleaned out the complete engine waterworks? maybe there is a lot of dirt/limestone in your coolingsystem.

 

How do you clean those passages? Do you need to remove the engine from the car?

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16 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

How do you clean those passages? Do you need to remove the engine from the car?

No, you don't need to remove the engine for that.. why should you?  I would google for some stuff that cleans out your kitchen boiler.. i never had a engine that bad clogged.. get a advice of a good radiator shop, they have the expertise on this.. (ask for a descaler for your cooling system.)

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