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Power Windows in a 70' 240Z ? !

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Funny enough, as I'm getting ready to write this up for you guys, I see some one has one on doing power windows in a (240K).

I'm going to do a full spread (with pictures and step by step stuff) on power windows in a 240Z.

"Why" you ask?

1) Cause when I'm buckled up (seatbelt) into my 70' 240Z, There is NOOO reaching the passenger side window without almost causing an accident.

2) When it's hot outside and you don't have the luxury of A.C, It'll be nice to hit the switch and roll down the window.

3) It'll get me browny points with the Wife, cause she too has trouble getting to the handle when she is buckled in. (if she's happy, I'm happy)

4) I CAN'T POSSIBLY BE THE ONLY ONE HERE (classiczcars.com) WHO WANTS POWER WINDOWS IN A 240Z.

So over the next few days, I will post progress and Pictures of the install.

It's pretty bad when it takes me longer to post and develope pics and tell all the "how-to's" then it does to put in the whole kit and wiring.

AS soon as U.P.S. shows up with my wire harness supplies and power window kit, I'll start the project.

More details to follow and also..... What do you guys think about power windows in (a) or (your) early model Z???

Dave.

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nope. I get all my 12volt aftermarket stuff from a company called "the Right Connection" (TRC).

I use a lot of "SPAL" electronics. My power door locks ($4.00 each), power windows, and 11 lb. hatch pop($9.00 each) are all SPAL or similar. I only pay $109 for the P.W. kit and $23 for the whole wire harness and 2 illuminated switchs kit. it even come with switch pods. you'll see later.

$132.00 ain't bad for power windows in a 70' Z. If I can get it down to a science, I'll offer it to friends and other local Z owners. I love putting impossible stuff into impossible cars.

I have a full alarm w/ keyless entry, starter kill, hatch pop, hood, hatch, and door pins, light flash, shock and proximity censors, and 2 sirens under the hood (tucked under the area in front of the Battery and washer fluid bottle.

But the nice thing is that you can't see hardly any of it or the wires. I take great pride in my wiring so you don't see it or it looks stock when I'm done.

I get all my stuff at whole sale or cost, I'm cheap that way. Besides, it saves you guys money as well.

Dave.

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You're a brave man. The first thing that comes to mind when I start working on the car is "I have just disabled the Z and have to fix it correctly now since our driveway is like a double black diamond ski run". I don't venture outside of a very small envelope.

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Dave, I installed power windows in my 73. I used the motors out of a 81ZX. The rest was home fabrication. Sorry I don't have any pictures with me right now. Basically, I mounted the motor in the lower front corner. I also used the original regulator.

1. I cut the serrated gear off the regulator so that it would move freely.

2. I welded a bracket onto the regulator where the serrated gear was.

3. Attached a bar from the motor to the bracket.

Sounds a lot easier than it was. I had the benefit of using an old door which I cut the skin of so I could work on proper geometry.

I left the window crank in place. Although none functional it retains the stock look.

I mounted the switches on the center console between the ashtray and the shifter.

And I will agree with you. It is NICE!!!

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The kit that I am getting, eliminates the window crank. No cutting, welding or ripping into the door. I can remove the kit and put everything back to stock when I'm done, with the exception of the door panel. Which only has to have the hole for the window crank, hogged out a little for a snap-on cap.

The P.W. kit uses small gears that attach to the window crank rod, which requires the removal of the handle. I have installed this kit in a 240Z before but did not document it. Here is a picture of the kit.....and the switches.....

post-4921-14150796711278_thumb.jpg

post-4921-14150796711482_thumb.jpg

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Yeah, I did this in my 240Z ten years ago. If your windows are stiff or tight rolling up or down these kits will not work well and will not last. Be sure that your windows are adjusted so that they roll up and down with minimum effort prior to attempting to install such a kit.

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My windows are great! I pull the door panels every once in a while and keep every thing greased up.

The kit I'm using is the "Deluxe" kit. It it's quieter and stronger than the usual kit. Thats why it's $20.00 more. I'm a true believer in "you get what ya pay for" so I opted for the the deluxe kit.

:paranoid: Still waiting on U.P.S. :rolleyes:

Dave.

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What do you do with the window winder?

Just wondering?

What do you mean by "window winder"? If your talking about the window handle or crank, You nicely put it in a box after cleaning and set it aside for who ever wants to pay the most......ROFL

If you're talking about the black "T" shapes handle in the first picture, That goes in the glovebox for emergencies. The kit has many depth options on the gear drive adaptors long one for long shafts or mid or short (I used the shortest one)

Here are the first pictures..

post-4921-1415079671165_thumb.jpg

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post-4921-14150796712293_thumb.jpg

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Here are the pics of the motor after a couple of different angles. All strapped in and now for the window crank area. I also triple checked for clearance issues and speaker fitment and interference.

All works beautifully............

post-4921-1415079671261_thumb.jpg

post-4921-14150796712936_thumb.jpg

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I mean the handle.

Do you re-skin the door so it hides where it was?

The kit comes with cups that cover and hide the assembly. you can see them in the picture below on the middle right. There are three sizes for different lenght shafts. unfortunately you have to widen the hole to fit the new cups. They are black and blend in real nice.

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Finished all the wiring and install last night. Thankfully, I had already drilled the two holes for the wires when I put in speakers, actuators, and the L.E.D. for my alarm.

It works great!!! easy up and down, nice and quiet, and no more reaching for the window handle.

I even replaced the old door lock actuators with some new "slim line" Compact actuators.

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post-4921-14150796714305_thumb.jpg

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you should of had the toggle switches right next to eachother like they do on bmw's, just so you wouldn't have to reach on the other side of the center console to open/close. but still nice install.

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you should of had the toggle switches right next to eachother like they do on bmw's, just so you wouldn't have to reach on the other side of the center console to open/close. but still nice install.

I thought about that and heres the problem....

1) The only place in the middle of the center console was where my choke is or where my rear defrost switch is. I like my rear window heater and need my choke so those were out of the question.

2) The other "center" area has metel directly underneath it (trans hump) and I was not about to cut that or have the wires to the switch going out side the car.

3) Everything in front of the shift boot has a purpose and I was'nt going to cut a perfect ashtray or fuse block cover for the sake of 2 small switches.

4) I wanted to be able to reach her side with ease and have her be able to reach my side as well. (mission succesful) My center console has a break on the passenger side from the P.O. the switches are deep and I have to hide the wires from the plugs that plug into the switches, and ALSO have a flat surface to mount the switch holders. The ONLY possible place to put the switches and not destroy the integrity of the car was on the sides of the center console.

They actually blend in very nice (they have the same texture as the console)

But thanks for the compliment and your input,:classic:

Dave.

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It's been a while since I added to this thread so I thought I'd Bump it up to let the readers know that everything still works great. Never blown a fuse, no issues with the wiring between the body and doors, still nice and quiet and strong.

I've been asked 3 times this month about "Power windows" so I figured an update was in order and this bring it closer to the front page when people search for info on the subject.

Dave.

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It's been a while since I added to this thread so I thought I'd Bump it up to let the readers know that everything still works great. Never blown a fuse, no issues with the wiring between the body and doors, still nice and quiet and strong.

I've been asked 3 times this month about "Power windows" so I figured an update was in order and this bring it closer to the front page when people search for info on the subject.

Dave.

awesome info.... a definite must...

*subscribed*

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How about some links to the parts you used?

Read it again a little more carefully:finger:, they are in the thread;)

Will

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Dave:

Now that you've established (1) how easy this kit was to install and (2) that it remains functional after an extended use period, it is time for you to "cut and paste" a stand-alone Technical Article about the modfication on this Web site - one that will not have all the extraneous comments and would simply be the documentation of all your efforts. I know that this is something I definitely want to do on my '72 during its rebuild, so your trailblazing is of great value to me.

I'd also like to see a similar Technical Aricle about your power door locks. I'm not "sold" on doing this mod yet, but others might be after they see what all was involved.

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Wow, in my street Z 15+ years ago I installed power windows, power door locks, LED's on the doors for the alarm and a moderately modified door panel with two midranges and one tweeter.

The biggest challenge was getting the wires through the body of the car and into the door without interfering with the regular mechanisms (I had to take both doors off). I built out a small panel that covered the center section of the door to hide the window mechanism and found room at the bottom of the door to install the motor.

This system with all these mods worked well until I sold the car 8 years ago.

I installed the switches for the windows on the center console behind the controls for the choke and made a small panel that raised that section of the center of the dash so that the switches would not ground out against the body of the car.

The door locks were easy, the windows were a little more involved but worked well.

Ron

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