Auto to Manual Conversion Guide

[kyteler]

I can't remember if I just left the outlets for the trans cooler lines on the rad of if I put tape or rubber caps on them, it doesn't really matter though, it won't be used anymore so as long as it's sufficiently empty of fluid you should be right. Don't want that $^!# dripping on the driveway.

[440k]

You could go to a hydraulics shop and try to get a couple of bungs for the screw nipples in the radiator (i assume that the connections screw into the radiator - didn't have a good look). Baing automotive, they may not be a standard hydraulic thread.

Yes, the rear gearbox seal is the one that seals onto the driveshaft (remember the oil started coming out of the gearbox when we pulled the driveshaft out?). If the gearbox has sat for a long time, the seal can harden and start to leak once you start driving the car again.

[Alfadog]

Righto I have the 'Seal-Oil-Rear Extension (Transmission output shaft) 32136-U0100' now but Nissan can't get Crankshaft-Oil Seal for rear of block 12279-A4600'. Maybe I could use the one on my auto box if that is the same.

[440k]

No, it's the seal in the back of the engine block we're talking about. This seals around the crankshaft end spigot (and stops engine oil getting into the bellhousing and onto the clutch - as has happened in the past on the donor car, judging by the thick black sludge inside the bellhousing).

[sakijo]

Lachlan,

The seal looks like this . . . .

[Alfadog]

Interesting. I will ask Repco if they have one today when I pick up the 280ZX clutch...

[440k]

Just thinking, does anyone know whether this seal can be replaced without having to remove (at least partially) the rear crank bearing cap? I've only ever replaced these seals with the engine stripped. Trying to replace the seal without removing the bearing cap(s) may cause more trouble than it's worth.

Just a thought.....

[Arne]

Hmm, I think the rear bearing cap has to come out. That was why I had ruled out doing the rear seal when I do my auto-to-manual swap later this spring.

[Alfadog]

Well, I have bought one now anyway! So we can have a go anyway....

I measured the 280ZX clutch again and it seems to be the same. Should be the go! I'm now painting the pedals etc.

One question - would it hurt to paint the trans dust cover? I have some hi-temp paint.

Pictures of my awesome bracket coming shortly!!

[Arne]

One question - would it hurt to paint the trans dust cover? I have some hi-temp paint.

No, painting it should be fine. Shoot, I don't have a dust cover! I forgot about that! Another part to add to the list.

[sakijo]

I can't say for sure, since I didn't do the work, but It looks to me that it can be done without removing the rear crank bearing cap. Looks to me like a "pry out the old and press in the new" procedure, similar to the front crankshaft seal. For what it's worth, here's the series of pictures my mechanic took during the work. Sorry, no techniques or tools shown - must be a secret.

[Arne]

Don't have my FSM yet (on its way), but this appears to assume that the bearing cap must be removed:

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/18/26/0900823d801d1826.jsp