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1972zed

In lieu of jack stands

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I am about to replace my clutch. was going to buy jack stands but to be perfectly honest i dont trust them. but I have never really used them.

What I have done, is laid 4 rims flat on the garage floor and jacked up the car and put them under the wheels. Then lowered the car onto the rims. Is this safe? anybody do this ever?

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jack stands are like anything involved in working on machinery........they are only as safe as the care used and the common sense of the user. Be careful and you'd be fine.

How many people use jackstands vs the # of people using rims laid flat on the floor?

Not that there is anything "wrong" with using rims laid flat, but you can't do much suspension/brake work to the car if you have to keep the car's tires/wheels installed to place on top of rims laid flat on the floor as support.

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Dude - Jack stands are perfectly safe when used properly and they are meant to hold the car up. Buy a quality set of jack stands and you'll have them around forever. If your worried about them buy the 3 - 3 1/2 ton set. They will more than adequately support the light weight Z.

Good Luck,

Nate

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Do you have a "Death Wish" or something??? I'd would trust heavy duty jacks stands under the car...any day of the week, compared to the car placed on the rims!!!. You may want to invest in some heavy duty jack stands and be done with it...

webdawg1

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Get some jack stands, place them under the frame rails directly behind the T/C rod. Use a small piece of wood between the stand and the rail to prevent any damage to the rail.

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I used to think exactly like you 1972Zed, but eventually I came around to the safety of jack stands. For a while I would use 2 sets, right side by side of each other just for good measure, like when I was working in the garage by myself. Eventually I came around to realize how study they actually are and returned to the normal use of 1 instead of 2 side by side. When I set the car on jack stands I always give it a good jostle, just to make sure it is on the stands nice and well, because I'd rather have the car fall of the stands then rather then when I am under it!

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I think i trust jack stands a little more than i should LOL,, Whenever i use them i give the car a vigorous shake like schevets said ESPECIALLY when im working alone. Another thing u can buy is those ramps u just drive up on. Those got me a little sketched out but i got used to em ( not to mention they are 50 years old) and bought another set so i could drive the front onto the ramps and then jack up the rear and put the other ramps under the tires. The ramps are usually easier to work with if ur just doing front end or rear end work, and i find em easier to use than jacks even if ur lifiting off both ends. If ur not sure about using them then buy heavier duty ones that have more support (i think they can hold like 9000lbs or sometihng like that) Anyways off my rant... If ur sketched out buy heavier duty ones,use caution, be smart, and always test the stands before u go sticking your head under there. You can put a price on parts but not ur life.

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you guys forget... what are the chances of 2 of 4 jackstands failing at the same time? even better, what are the chances of 2 of the 4 failing JUST in the front or JUST the rear, or both on one side?

Very slim. Why am I pointing this out? because even if ONE jackstand fails, the car will still be held up by the other 3. Even if the jackstand latch mechanism fails, the car will only travel down as far as the base of the jackstand, which is usually half its height.

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First of all , buy a good set of stands, NOT the cheep ones made of glorified sheet metal. The stand must have a wide foot print so it wont topple if side pressure is applied to the car. Always use at least two stands . If working on the front of the car then use one stand on each side of the front the same with the rear . Never use a set of stands and jack the care up on one side . The jack stands are not ment to be used on a angle or unlevel surface. The ramps are a great way of gaining highth. I use two sets when working on the Z when the wheels need not be removed. However I use the floor jack to raise the front and then slip the ramp under the tires with the ramp part facing toward the front of the car . I then jack the rear and put the secound set of ramps under the rear tires with the ramps facing to the rear. I have wooden blocks cut like door stops to chock the tires and tap them in place with a hammer. This way the tires will not move , beside the fact that the tires are riding in a depression in the ramp. This puts the car well in the air so cleaning or working on the underside of the car is much easier. Storage of Jack stands and ramps is not difficult and they take little room. I have one set of ramps at my home and a secound set '' loaned'' to my son . To do the clutch I would use four 3 ton stands and raise both ends of the car to allow you space to work. Or the ramps as described above. Gary If you have a Harbor Fright near by all means go there for the stands .

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OK jack stands it is, what about those new cordless impact wrenches, anybody use them? not the air ones but the ones with the battery chargers.

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I've seen the battery operated impacts from Snap-On (18 volt) but no, I've personally never used one. The Snap-On guy that comes to my work tells me that it will take the lugs off his truck :laugh: I just traded my old 1/2 inch snap-on impact in for the new magnesium 1/2 inch Gun. That thing is sweeeeeet :devious:

Anyways make sure you got a good torque wrench too so you can torque the nuts and bolts back to factory specs. :)

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I remember i was ata junkyard, jumping on a 4foot breaker bar trying to get a lugnut on a wheel to budget so i could get the rims. Couldn't do it, and the breaker bar was bending.

The guy next to me was using a snapon cordless impact gun rated at 500 ft lbs of torque to remove teh head off an ka24de in a 240sx. He came up, put the impact gun on, and broke all the lugs loose in a heartbeat.

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i never understood the benefit of an impact wrench, always thought it was just a tool to loosen nuts quickly.

then my son bought one........

it's gotta be one of the best tools to use especially on older rusted fasteners. i have yet to break a bolt using this thing, and i know if i just used a breaker bar i would have torqued off quite a few.

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Ok went out to look for jackstands. Found some 3 ton stands. Are they adequate? Place I went to sell 2 ton, 3 ton and 12 ton. The 12 ton ones seemed pretty overdone.

the 3 ton ones give you 16.6" clearance. Is that enough room to do the clutch job?

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That's what I used to change my clutch. I have two sets of 3 ton stands. Have had them for years and never had a problem.

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Ok went out to look for jackstands. Found some 3 ton stands. Are they adequate? Place I went to sell 2 ton, 3 ton and 12 ton. The 12 ton ones seemed pretty overdone.

the 3 ton ones give you 16.6" clearance. Is that enough room to do the clutch job?

They should be just fine . If you have a harbor fright around they sell them for about $12. for two .

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I hate to drag this one up again but I will. Sorry y'all. I have jack stands for the rear and steel ramps (good new ones) for the front. I was just thinking yesterday that this probably isnt a very safe setup, as there is the potential for the car to roll back (because of the ramps) and knock the rear jack stands over . Is this possible?

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I hate to drag this one up again but I will. Sorry y'all. I have jack stands for the rear and steel ramps (good new ones) for the front. I was just thinking yesterday that this probably isnt a very safe setup, as there is the potential for the car to roll back (because of the ramps) and knock the rear jack stands over . Is this possible?

Yes. When the rear is on jackstands, there is not anything to keep the front wheels from rolling aside from the tiny lip on the ramps. Either chock the front wheels on the ground or put the front up on jack stands.

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Please, could anyone post a few pix of a Z car properly positioned on jack stands? I'd like to see from the bottom up so that I do it the proper way without doing damage to my vehicle (positioning properly on the uniframe concerns me). Also, what's the recommended procedure, one corner at a time, or both front or rear at a time? (Logic tells me both front or both rear so as to avoid the leaning.) And what are the best jacking points to use when doing this.

I'm ready to go with a small floor jack and four jack stands from harbor Freight! I guess all I need now is the confidence to do it correctly, and I know that y'all can certainly supply that! I must admit that I an a "visual" learner; seeing helps me understand much better than trying to interpret from text. I don't mean to be a pain, just want to do it right the first time. (I have in the past used a pair of ramps, but want to get the girl up on all four corners without wheels touching.) Your help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

John

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Either jack up the front or back at a given time. Don't lift one side at a time to place on jackstands.

From the FSM:

The front jacking point is center of front suspension member and rear is differential gear carrier.

Do not apply a jack to center portion of front suspension transverse link.

Front supportable points for (jack)stand(s) are both front side members. (Translation: along the frame rails but not under the floor pan.) Rear supportable points are both sides of front differential mounting cross member.

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