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deadflo

checked gap on points, now no start

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    i checked my point gap today, used a remote starter so i could get the points wide open by myself. When i checked the gap with a feeler gage, i got a little spark across the gap. I beleive I still had the ignition switch "ON".

    Did I F. U?

    I tried to see if I was getting any spark after it wouldnt start by disconnecting the coil wire and trying to start it. it doesn't look like I'm getting any spark now....

    :disappoin

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    OK, well I managed to get her to run.

    When I checked the gap, and adjusted it as per the Haynes manual.

    I loosened one of the hold down screws on the points, then VERY SLIGHTLY adjusted the recessed adjustment screw to decrease the gap. When it wouldnt start, I went back and VERY SLIGHTLY adjusted that screw back to where it was (probably a tenth of a turn) I put the cap back on and she fired right up!

    What the F@#$ ?

    So it looked like the dwell was in the ballpark range (41).

    I then reset the timing, but i did notice the most i could advance it was to 5 BTD. It seems to run OK now, just wondering why it would not start when I adjusted that recessed screw??

    The hanyes and chiltons seem to offer varying bits of info on the dwell adjst. do you need to actually check the gap of the points if youre just doing a 6000 mile tune up? Or just check the points with the dwell

    meter??

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    I wish that I could help you with this issue, but I cannot.

    However, I can help you for the future. I would recommend dumping the points and doing one of two things.

    1. If you want to keep the existing distributor, get a Pertronix Ignitor Ignition to install inside that distributor. No more points, no dwell, nothing. Just replace dist cap and rotor (as or when needed), set the timing and drive. http://www.pertronix.com/ignition_products/ignitor.htm

    2. Replace the distributor with one of the later Nissan electronic distributors. Again, no more points and dwell to muck about with.

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    2. Replace the distributor with one of the later Nissan electronic distributors. Again, no more points and dwell to muck about with.

    Wont the advance curve will be for the larger (2.8) engine?

    Wont you need to get the distributer regraphed?

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    I'm liklely to go with the pertronix when it comes time to change the points. I'm still curious why adjusting the point gap would cause a no start situation...

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    OK, well I managed to get her to run.

    When I checked the gap, and adjusted it as per the Haynes manual.

    I loosened one of the hold down screws on the points, then VERY SLIGHTLY adjusted the recessed adjustment screw to decrease the gap. When it wouldnt start, I went back and VERY SLIGHTLY adjusted that screw back to where it was (probably a tenth of a turn) I put the cap back on and she fired right up!

    What the F@#$ ?

    So it looked like the dwell was in the ballpark range (41).

    I then reset the timing, but i did notice the most i could advance it was to 5 BTD. It seems to run OK now, just wondering why it would not start when I adjusted that recessed screw??

    The hanyes and chiltons seem to offer varying bits of info on the dwell adjst. do you need to actually check the gap of the points if youre just doing a 6000 mile tune up? Or just check the points with the dwell

    meter??

    correct dwell is what you should aim for. It is a measure of how accurately the points are adjusted when the car is running, whereas setting the gap static with a feeler guage doesn't take into account wear in the distributor.

    The way that the points move when you adjust the gap means that a tenth of a turn will make a big change in the gap at the points, which I am guessing is why your car wouldn't start.

    hope it helps

    Andrew

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    Wont the advance curve will be for the larger (2.8) engine?

    Wont you need to get the distributer regraphed?

    perhaps, but for most people who I know who have done this it has been a straightforward fit and forget upgrade. Perhaps you can swap the bob-weights and vaccuum advance unit from old distributor to the electronic replacement to avoid regraphing it. I have swapped the bits from a euro distributor onto a recon US distributor body ( both non-electronic) and it was pretty easy.

    hope it helps

    Andrew

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    Wont the advance curve will be for the larger (2.8) engine?

    Wont you need to get the distributer regraphed?

    I really don't know if that would be a problem. To be honest, I only added #2 because eveytime I suggest the Pertronix, someone else jumps in and suggests getting a junker OEM electronic distributor & module.

    I'm quite happy with suggestion #1, myself. 4 years and counting, though I haven't driven the car much in the last year.

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    I had the same problem with incorrectly adjusted points. On my old 260z when i replaced the points i had to play with my points setting and use my feeler gauge to correctly set them.

    I would highly recommend regraphing a ZX distributor. It's not as easy as just swapping weights and vacuum advance mechanisms. From what I've seen the Vacuum advance diaphram on the points dizzies do not retract on their own and need a spring to return them. The later ZX ones return by the Diaphram alone.

    Also the weights and springs in the bottom of the distributor all play a part in the advance of the car. You need to know what your doing in order to set these right to match your camshaft profile etc..

    A friend of mine is a bit of a wizard with the distributors and he helped me set mine up. As a result the firing order in my car is different to standard.

    You can just swap over the ZX dizzy but the car doesn't advance very well and drives a bit sluggish.

    If you do go with a ZX unit check for shaft play and see if it easily spins.

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