Wheel Stud length?

[mdbrandy]

Advice needed. When I got my 280Z, it had ARE wheels on it, and those required about a 3/8" spacer with them to clear the spring on the inside. Whoever installed the wheels and spacers also installed longer wheel studs to get the job done. However, those studs look like they might be a little short. See the pics attached, where the nut doesn't quite catch all its threads on the studs when tightened down. So, does it look to anyone like this is an unsafe configuration?

I am currently rebuilding a spare 280Z front suspension (tie rods, ball joints, bushings, shocks, springs, wheel bearings, paint, etc.), so now would be a very good time to get longer studs. If that would be a good idea, where would you suggest I get them? In about 1987, I was rolling down CA highway 5 out in the middle of nowhere in my 1975 280Z, and 3 out of four wheelstuds snapped on the right front and left me stranded (I think, but couldn't prove that a tire place had air-wrenched them and cracked them), so I'm a bit paranoid about wheel studs.

Thanks.

[2ManyZs]

I don't know that I would trust them.

I've got a set of ARE wheels that have such a thick center flange that the stock studs and nuts are nearly the same as yours, without a spacer.

I'd either use longer studs, or, if possible, use a slightly narrower tire to for clearance and get rid of the spacer (if that is possible).

I'd want the end of the stud to at least be flush with the outside edge of the nut, to make sure all threads on the nut are engaged on the stud.

I don't know how strict the vehicle inspections are there, but in VA that wouldn't pass.

Mine only passed because the wheels had a screw on center cap that covered them, so without removing the cover, they couldn't see any of the studs/nuts.

[mdbrandy]

I'd want the end of the stud to at least be flush with the outside edge of the nut, to make sure all threads on the nut are engaged on the stud.

I don't know how strict the vehicle inspections are there, but in VA that wouldn't pass.

Mine only passed because the wheels had a screw on center cap that covered them, so without removing the cover, they couldn't see any of the studs/nuts.

Sure would be nice to have all the threads engaged...

There are no vehicle inspections here. And I have locking center covers anyway, so they wouldn't be seen unless the covers were removed.

But, since I'd probably be buying new ones anyway, I can get ones a bit longer to "finish off" the threads in the nut. Don't really have the option of forking out $400 for new tires to replace ones that are almost new right now (about 5000 miles on them). What are the "best" studs to get?

Mark

[Bambikiller240]

Back in the day, Nissan sold extra long studs through the competition catalog (now called Nismo)

[2ManyZs]

You can still get the Nismo studs but they aren't cheap.... :sick:

Another alternative would be to use an SAE stud and just buy new nuts.... IIRC, a 1/2 inch stud is almost the exact same diameter, you just have to find the right knurl on the stud.

Chino 240Z is doing this very thing at this time as far as I know, you might try him to see if he found the correct replacement....You can buy them for 20 dollars for 10, while the Nismo studs were about 5 bucks or more each the last I knew... :paranoid:

BTW, I was just hoping you might be able to save those tires for something else or use them on another set of wheels that didn't require spacers.....

[hls30.com]

If you find the info, post it for the rest of us-I'm not there, but I will be soon!

Will

[jmortensen]

There is a Mazda stud that works and is long enough (wanna say it is 40 or 45mm) but it is 12 x 1.5 instead of the stock Nissan 12 x 1.25. I believe it is a 1st gen RX7. The knurl diameter is several thousandths smaller than the stock Z stud, but I've had them in my car for years, never had one spin, and I drive to autox and then change the tires, then change back and drive home, so they've been used A LOT. I picked them up at the local auto parts store.

I am just now going to 3" studs, and I found there was a Camaro stud that Moroso and ARP make that had the correct knurl or was .001 or .002 bigger. I ended up with the RX7 stuff again because I got a better deal on it.

I think the stock knurl is .507" but double check that, then you can get another stud with the proper knurl and hopefully keep a 12 x 1.25.

Found this: wheel studs

[2ManyZs]

Here's the 60mm which are the longest that Nismo offers... as you can see, the price is almost 62 per set, whatever they consider to be a set(4, 8 or 16) they are still a lot more expensive than say ARP 1/2 inch (10 for 20 bucks or so) would be from Summit Racing.

http://www.nismoparts.com/cart/?pn=40222-RS025&submit=Search

Here's the scan from the Nismo catalog with the dimensions...

[mdbrandy]

I've been doing some web searching, and I found the Nismo stuff and the ARP Mazda stuff. Looks like I have some research to do. ARP is supposed to be good stuff from what I have heard. I found the Nismo parts at both nismoparts.com and courtesy nissan's web site. The nismoparts site had that "set" for $61 and change, whatever that means, and courtesy sold them individually for $6.15 each. If the set is 10 studs, then that'd be about the same. I shall do some e-mailing, and look into the other brands. I'll take out the original studs in the hubs I'm going to use tomorrow so I have something to compare to.

Thanks.

[panchovisa]

I just put in the 3 1/2" ARP studs from Summit Racing. They are listed as Chrysler studs with a 1/2-20 fine thread. It did require the hubs to be drilled out to 15.5mm. The stud has a very coarse knurl (don't think you could ever spin them). The threaded portion from hub face is 2 5/8" and 3" to end of starter pilot.

The problem is not finding studs, but to find the correct style nuts to fit wheels & studs. My set up requires "open ended" mag style nuts (glad I already had).

[2ManyZs]

Pancho, do you have a part number on the ones you used?

I see there's more than one choice when it comes to the knurl diameter.. some of the 1/2 studs are .530 or so up to a .680 knurl diameter.

[panchovisa]

2ManyZs, sorry I took so long to post (working in the garage). The part number (ARP's) is 100-7703. Didn't measure the knurl, but it needs a 15.5mm hole (.610") so of your two knurl diameters I would assume it's the .680" knurl.

With any knurl the hole size is most inportant. With mine I measured the minor dia of knurl at .580 with a tool scope. Tried a 15mm (.590") hole and couldn't budge the stud. With 15.5mm (.610")it was hard to press in, but with 4 foot extension on arbor press and good grease on stud it seated fully. I think a .625" hole would be to big.