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Replacing S30 Rear Wheel Bearings


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Here is a great link to a "HOW TO" pictorial of replacing Rear Wheel Bearings on an S30. It has a lot of pictures so it will take a bit of time to fully load, but it looks to be a very good resource. I saved it to my hard drive in case it disappears from the Net before I get around to doing this job.

If anyone who is experienced with doing this job cares to comment on the tutorial, those of us who haven't done it will appreciate your "constructive comments". :classic:

Replacing S30 Rear Wheel Bearings

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Carl, looks pretty complete to me (although some of the images didn't appear). I pulled four rear stub axels apart OFF the car. I don't recommend that! I had struts locked down in huge machinist vise and had to lag screw the workbench to garage wall studs to keep from tipping workbench over while I broke nut loose!!!!

I will be re-installing soon (after struts are welded for short shocks, coil overs, etc.) probably off the car again (will finish torque ON the car though).

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Carl, looks pretty complete to me (although some of the images didn't appear). I pulled four rear stub axels apart OFF the car. I don't recommend that! I had struts locked down in huge machinist vise and had to lag screw the workbench to garage wall studs to keep from tipping workbench over while I broke nut loose!!!!

I will be re-installing soon (after struts are welded for short shocks, coil overs, etc.) probably off the car again (will finish torque ON the car though).

Hi Pancho

On the pics that didn't appear, did the little box with the red X appear? If so, right click your mouse and select "Show Picture". That happened to me, there are so many pictures on the page that the loading "timed out" and the pics stopped loading. I was able to get them all to appear using this method. That was one reason I saved it to my hard drive, so I wouldn't have to deal with that again.

I'm glad that you mentioned the problems with doing this off of the car. I hate working on stuff like this on the car and would have tried to do it like you did. Guess this is better done as shown.

Carl

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Done it many times. It all looks OK but looks a little over the top for me. I find the hardest part is removing the axle nuts the first time. I won't share my method here, as it is considered dangerous by some, but it does include the use of a floor jack and a very long breaker bar to break them loose.

I have never found heating and cooling parts necessary. I use a 3 jaw puller to remove bearings stuck on the axel, and various pipes and fittings as drifts for installing them. just use a cone aparratus available at any auto parts store that hooks up to the grease gun to lube bearings.

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  • 2 years later...

I revived this thread because it had some good pics and tutorial for replacing the rear bearings. My set up on my s-30 was different in that I had a copper shim washer that went between the companion flange and the inner bearing. I had one on both sides. After installing the bearings and installing the nuts(not quite the 200ft pds yet,which might be the problem), I have about .008 end paly at the housing. The play is when I pull and push directly on the the wheel flange. Is this too much? Will the additional torque take out a few thousands. I torqued the nut as hard as i could with a 1/2" drive but I bet I am still 50+ pounds short of 200.

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Jon,

According to the thread you referenced me to the copper spacer goes on top of the bearing ,under the companion flange-not under the nut. I really appreciate the reference though, it answers why it was there and where it should be. I still worry about the end play since I didn't check what it was before i did the job. I need to mount a wheel on there and try to find bearing play I guess.

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  • 4 weeks later...

:stupid: I have had to do this twice. My daugther did it to my 280Z on a winter day in Colorado the first time (ice slide into curb after hours). I, ended up taking the half-shaft off of the end of the hub. Used a 3/4" breaker bar and a breaker bar pipe over the handle. Left the tires on and set the car back on the ground after removing the the one end of the half-shaft. Then set the hand brake and put the car in gear. We, then used the 3/4" breaker bar and socket w/pipe to break the bolt lose. Had to stand on the handle to break it free. Used a slide hammer to pull the rest of it out of the hub. Took the axle to a truck repair place and had them remove the outer bearing by pressing it off and putting on a new one. Replaced the grease in the bearing race area before I put the axles back in. Then we put the inner bearing and grease seal on and started torqueing it down. You need to replace the old locking nut with a new locking nut. I am starting to work on my V-8 Z and will be converting to the 5-lug pattern. So I will be ordering new axles from MM to go in it. Good Luck, Rich.

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  • 2 months later...

I discovered my 73 Z needs new rear bearings. The local parts places don't seem to have a listing for the spindle nut.

1) Is the nut on the rear spindle the same as on the front?

or

2) Is this something I can buy if I know the size and thread?

or

3) does anyone have a Nissan Part number?

I could order this from courtesy Nissan but I would like to have it sooner than later.

Many thanks,

Al

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1.) No.

2.) Maybe, if you can find a self-locking nut in this size, but it also needs to be fairly low profile, so probably not.

3.) 43262-21000 for 240/260/280Z. The 280ZX nut does not require staking down (normal self-locking) and is 43262-W1200

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Thanks Arne.

Assuming no major hiccups, I am guessing this is a 2-3 hour job per axle.

(I have a press, 250 ft-lb torque wrench, slide hammer)

Does this sound right?

I ask because I want to fix the car before Saturday.

Al

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