Triple Mikuni and Webers
Discussions around the triple Mikuni & Weber carb setups
70 topics in this forum
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- 12 followers
- 480 replies
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I am going to be ordering a triple weber setup for my L28. First, my engine basic stats: L28 F54/Flattops, .040 bore, E31 Head which is ported/etc, 500/300 cam, 6-1 header, pertronix igntition, etc. My whole engine install thread here: I've been running the round top SU's with SM needles. They go lean up top despite the needles and repeatedly checking the floats/fuel delivery/etc. Looking to go triples. The good news is my engine was built as a backup for a race car and it came in the crate with jet sizing written on the valve cover. So I have a good starting point. Just hoping you guys can help fill in the blanks. I am learning here. …
Last reply by blodi, -
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- 9 followers
- 221 replies
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Well some of you that I am now proceeding with my Mikuni install.When I purchased these carbs I got lucky and recieved a very complete kit. These look new right out of the box-infact the carbs came in a Mikuni box:) I even recieved an original 1985 catalog and service manual. I decided to post up parts of these Mikuni publications on here for all to view. Between the two publications I have part numbers and illustrations of the carbs and their parts. Let me know if there is anything in particular that you might want to see. I know folks buy these carbs with the intent to rebuild, but not much to go on. I hope this thread and pics will help. I'll start out with the some…
Last reply by Galaxybj, -
- 6 followers
- 37 replies
- 11.3k views
I have been having issues with my OER SK 40mm carbs. The problem is very elusive and I have not been able to find the source. I will do my best to describe the problem and I am willing to clarify if needed. I am going to refer to carb(#1) as cylinders 1 and 2. Carbs #1 and #3 are perfectly fine, it is carb #2 that is acting up. I started to sync the carbs, first by disconnecting all the linkages. I managed to balance #1 and #3 using an unisyn tool. However, #2 (cylinders 3 and 4) would be run leaner than the others. I unscrewed the idle mixture screws for #2 a few turns, and it leaned out even more resulting in popping out the carb and a nearly white spark plug. Also…
Last reply by esmit208, -
- 1 follower
- 8 replies
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I've gone through the forums and cant seem to find a bottom line answer to this. I have Weber DCOE 45's on my 240 and I just purchased some new stacks (pictured in red). These stacks are the bolt-on style and do not slide into the carb, like some that I am seeing (also pictured). 1. Will my bolt-on stacks work with no issues? 2. I read that the "slide-in" type stacks help hold the venturi in place, is this true? 3. I also read that the "slide-in" type stacks do something with the choke plate, is that true? Thanks, Jeff
Last reply by Mike W, -
- 2 followers
- 23 replies
- 7.2k views
I have been fighting with the throttle cable on my Triple Webers for years. Just never had that perfect OEM feeling the push pull rods gave me (after they were rebuild and in perfect condition mind you) So Mike W. was kind enough to put me onto the Harada manifold. This this has all the features I have dreamed of in a manifold. It has a cast in bosses to hold the teflon bearings for the throttle rod. The throttle rod is BEEFY so deflection is not an issue on the middle carb. It comes with a Cable guide that should you want to run a cable should make the throttle feel excellent. It also has a torsion spring on the end that is awesome. I had drawn up one like this i…
Last reply by rossiz, -
- 1 follower
- 33 replies
- 6.4k views
Hello Gents, As the title states I am experiencing some issues during deceleration when coming to a stop using the gears. I can put the car in neutral and it stays running. But when I use the gears to help with the stop especially when coming in hot and fast the engine just wants to die. It always dips to 500 RPM and most of the time just stops running. It idles good, it runs good going thru the gears, sounds freaking awesome! but the damn stop..... Been tuning the carbs for a few weeks and I think it is real close. Idles at 1000. Fuel PSI is 3.5. Fuel return line is capped. I barely have the 2-3K rpm stumble. I can tell it pulls very nice all the way to 5500 …
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 30 replies
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Yup, the regulatory plunger in my Mallory pump stuck and I ended up sending 18 psi to my webers for darn near a minute before I realized what was happening. I made a thread over that problem, including the solution. I am not back to a rock steady 3 psi. However, when I started it up the very first time after this happened the car acted very funny at first. One of the floats was stuck all the way down and I was running on 4 cylinders for a while. I tapped the top of the carb where the float needle is and the fuel pressure dropped to zero then increased to read 3 psi like it should, meaning it was being held completely closed and empty and when I tapped it, so…
Last reply by LeonV, -
- 15 replies
- 6.2k views
I pulled these off my 240z parts car and I am looking to rebuild them and put them on my 280z with a stroker motor. Any tips or concerns I should have and where to find a rebuild kit in general.I know they are in pretty rough shape but they are definitely rebuildable.
Last reply by 71Nissan240Z, -
- 2 followers
- 6 replies
- 6k views
Disclaimer: I am by NO means a Weber Pro and this post is still a WIP (Work in Progress) Hello, my name is Mike and I've recently tackled my first set of Triple DCOE Webers project. Now, I spent hours reading all the manuals and following a few guides online, but none of them were particularly methodical in their approach and often just led to more confusion. I'm putting this guide together to, hopefully, help others who might not have much experience with these carbs or for those who (like me) prefer a Step-by-Step approach to figuring things out. This guide has been made possible with the help of those more knowledgeable than me. Thanks guys - you know…
Last reply by Zedyone_kenobi, -
- 2 followers
- 4 replies
- 5.8k views
Photo references! Edutainment! Add your photos with descriptions of your carburetors, linkage, inlet manifolds and related parts so we have a visual reference database. So here are some photos of triple Dellorto DHLA 40 with unknown manifold (Datsun 240Z cast into the bottom of the manifold), linkage, and Warneford Design (Bap Geon) air cleaners.
Last reply by grannyknot, -
- 7 replies
- 5.5k views
I picked up an old manifold that is a dead ringer for the Datsun competition manifold. The only problem is that while doing research I came across the Tomei manifoldwhich from the photos looks exactly the same. Did Tomei manufacture the Datsun competion intakes or did they just copy them?
Last reply by nismospek, -
- 4 followers
- 51 replies
- 5.2k views
I recently jetted my triple dhla 40s for a standard N42 L28 and the car felt like it was running great. Basically no hesitations and clean acceleration throughout the the rev range. Carbs are all in sync more less and very responsive. I wanted to do some fine tuning and put on a wideband o2 sensor. The car according to my gauge is running absolutely rich as it gets. I can set it to idle around 14-15afr but as soon as I touch the gas it goes right to 7-9 afr and cruises at 9. The jets/chokes I know are around the proper size. 32 mm chokes, 130 mains, 35 pumps, 7772.5 emulsion. 50 idles, 195 air correctors. What would possibly be the cause of it running super ric…
Last reply by jitenshakun,
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